Clutch master?!?

[mell00510]

I have a 71 4 door with ka swap. I have an aftermarket clutch and pressure plate and I am on my 3rd 'stock' clutch master!! I was wondering if there was a high quality/performance master I should be after... One of the usual suspects- zx, sx, ect


Hate workin over my shin-E paint

[okayfine]

There's no performance in a MC, but there are differing qualities. What brands have you used, have they all been new? Does your clutch setup have any recommendations for the hydraulic system? How do the parts you've had been failing?

[mell00510]

The first was tokico (or something like that, said Japan on it...), the second had a large T stamped on it, and the third is a cheap one from local partstore, which I took back for lifetime warranty hahaha!, and installed same cheap crap one until I can find reliable replacement- hopefully within 5-600 miles cuz this has become my 'critter' you personally warned me of about 14 months ago.... (I claimed my car was finished) oops! BTW- Clutch kit doesn't mention any special m/c or slave, but again those are intended for stock 240sx parts- hmmm you've planted a seed, thx
And maybe brand you've had best luck with?

[okayfine]

Problems with CMCs are rare, and I've not had issues with any in 20 years of 510 ownership. New Tokicos are hard to beat, but most often what you get is an original Tokico body that's been (shoddily) "rebuilt." For rebuilds such as those, it can be beneficial to disassemble them for cleaning before first use - sometimes you'll find aluminum swarf inside from the reboring process.

Still interested in the failure mode you're experiencing. All three failed the same way?

[icehouse]

Go to Nissan and buy a good unit. Also use dot 4 brake fluid its synthetic and doesn't melt the paint. Also Nissan used the same 5/8" bore on the clutch master cylinders for a damn long time. I usually ask the parts dude what they have in stock and use the internals out of whatever they got in my old master, if I end up getting one with a different bolt pattern out of a later car.

[mell00510]

Sorry guys- brainfart! They have all decided to let loose at piston, letting fluid out the backside/ inside car. Thanks for input, also should I be bench bleeding the unit before install?!?

[okayfine]

Bench-bleeding isn't a bad idea, but I don't think that'll solve your problem. If you've bought all rebuilt units, you may be suffering from the poor quality of the rebuilds. I'd still try to find a new one, or from Nissan as icehouse suggested, or at the very least open up and clean out any further rebuilt units.

None of the current RockAuto offerings say they're new, so I assume they're all rebuilds.

[mell00510]

Thx guys

[mell00510]

Thx for the input guys. I'll either get one that is similar ordered from the dealer later this week- or I got any extra one from my brothers hardbody... I wonder if that would work, does it just has to be similar size bore? Thx again

[okayfine]

You'd want it to have similar location for the hard line, and it'd have to have the same bolt pattern, etc. It's possible.

[mell00510]

Good shit, thanks guys!!