The 510 Realm

Did DGR source the motor for you? if so, they should get you another seeing that you haven't even ran it yet..or did you? I have stock pistons and rods for sale if you need 'em. Buy new rings though. Good luck

m33pm33p wrote:be thankfull your block is ok... Looks like just a tiny bit of score that would hone out.

beware drg

Not sure if the block is salvageable. You cant tell in the picture, but there is quite a score down the cylinder wall. I think maximum bore is .020" per side so I'll find out as soon as I find a machine shop I trust if it cleans up. Definitely not a honing job.

NICKLE&DIME wrote:Man that really makes me wonder about who not to do business with. I am sorry about your bad experience. I hope that your paint and weld work came out to your liking.

I'll never go into any adventure again where there is money exchanged with the idea of "just having fun". Lesson learned.

johnbureezu wrote:Did DGR source the motor for you? if so, they should get you another seeing that you haven't even ran it yet..or did you? I have stock pistons and rods for sale if you need 'em. Buy new rings though. Good luck

Yeah the engine was sourced via DGR. The only reason I purchased it through them was because he said he warrantied it. He told me he would go to L.A. (his supplier) and "hand pick my low millage engine". Once I ran into problems, he came up with this idea that he told me it was a two year warranty (knowing it was going to take me a while to get the car back together after paint). Sounds the same as when DGR told me the muffler I paid for was one thing, then another. Unfortunately, too much time has passed as I restored everything to just say I want another engine. If he had any business morals what so ever, he would have cut me a check and called it good.
Time will tell.

I bought my SR from the scummiest and shadiest engine import warehouse, ever. Welcome to New Jersaaayyy
Compression tested right there on the floor and I practically tore the engine apart inspecting it before handing the cash over.

angzt wrote:I bought my SR from the scummiest and shadiest engine import warehouse, ever. Welcome to New Jersaaayyy
Compression tested right there on the floor and I practically tore the engine apart inspecting it before handing the cash over.

Lesson learned for sure.

Does anyone with SR20 experience know how far you can safely bore the stock sleeves? Not sure which direction to go; bore to maximum and hope it cleans up, sleeve the block, or try to locate a new/used block?

finally decided on which direction to go with the engine rebuild. I was having a hard time trying to find someone I could trust to do the machine work, why I don't know. For some reason Rebello Racing had slipped my mind because I always affiliated them with old school stuff. Anyways, I chose them to do the work on the block and head because they've been around forever and build fast, bullet proof engines. Some of you old school guys will definitely recognize the name!! I dropped the parts off along with a deposit last weekend and decided on the parts list. I pretty much went with Daves (the owner) recommendations as follows.
JE pistons (not sure of size yet)
Eagle rods
ACL bearings
Isky springs
Supertech valves
Supertech Guides
Apexi head gasket
JWT S3 cams (already had them, but new)

Rebello is also going to blueprint the crank, port and polish the head (what they're know for), and after some thinking do the assembly. I just didn't want to assemble this thing in a tiny one car garage. I also will have the peace of mind knowing it was put together correctly. It will be ready in a few weeks and installed just as quick.

Cant wait to actually have all four cylinders running and be gone with another f--king DGR product. Should be capable of 400HP at 15psi We'll see!

Here's another barnyard unprofessional shit bag job by DGR Fabrication. I'm really lucky I stumbled upon this before I stuck the engine back in, because I'd have to drop it again to fix it. IF YOU CANT EVEN BRAZE TWO PIECES OF COPPER TOGETHER, GET THE HELL OUT OF THE AUTO INDUSTRY BEFORE YOU KILL SOMEONE AND STOP STEALING PEOPLES MONEY!!
WHAT A JOKE

Did they just use 60/40 solder or did they use silver solder? Looks like regular solder. If done correctly with silver solder it shouldn't have broken.

From the pic, it looks like no flux was used, or it wasn't scuffed. Pipe coming out of the firewall looks too clean(no solder). This is why I only work on my own stuff. Too easy to make a simple mistake like that, and if I do it to MY car, well, I'm out the time and hassle, not someone esles time hassle, and MONEY, and the resultant problems that causes.

Watching with enthusiasm for this to get back 'right' and on the road.

No words come to mind to describe the empathy I have for you.

I am in the same boat as a previous poster: I will learn to do it myself if I dont already know how because I know how much of an OCD perfectionist I am.
I cant wait to learn bodywork.....

Geez man! Appears that you have to double check everything here, half ass work. My friend just got his dime back and will be taking it to another painter, the body shop that did the welding did a bad job, and means more money and down time.

im never going to DGR... thats BS

what is going on with this build? Any updates?