The 510 Realm

Can someone tell me what components are used from which car to build a driveshaft for an SR20 installation? I have a complete driveshaft from the car that donated the SR20, and I have my stock 510 driveshaft. A few more specific qiestions; should I make it one piece, or fab up a mount for the center bearing and make it a 2-piece (the driveshaft that came with the SR20 is a 2-piece)? If I make it a one piece, should I use the transmission pinion with the large rubber damper on it as the first U-joint (wouldn't think so). If I can't, then I'll have to fine a new pinion with U-joint yoke, does anyone know where to get a new pinion that will fit the SR 5-speed? When I made a driveshaft for the 6-speed SR project, I was surprised to find that Spicer made a pinion for this transmission that used standard GM-style U-joints. I don't know if it's available for this transmission or not.

i'll bet that you use both 510 pieces, and recommend using just a piece shaft (just easier, lighter). You may have to remove the dust sheild if it hasn't been already. the KA trannys are supposed to have the same splines, why wouldn't those ones?

i need help too, im doing a ka swap but have no drive shaft for the 510 of ka, can i just use a ka shatf? of do i have to find both? if i need both were can i find a 510 shaft? or will a shaft off anothr car work?

I used the whole stock 510 drive shaft, if I remember correctly I had it shortened about 8 1/4" but I built rack and pinion so the length of the drive line could vary, also 510 drive lines are different all a little different length. I set the 240 and 510 drive lines next to each other. The u joints are the same size. anyways thats what I did, it's also my daily driver and I've had no problems with 200 rwhp.

I would use a single driveshaft system.

The weakest link in a two piece system is always the carrier bearing.
Also, if you dont get the pinion angle just right with a two piece it will continually screw up the carrier bearing.
On my nissan pickup the pinion was off by just 2 degrees and it fried the carrier bearing a couple of times before I realized what was going on.

Thats just my experience and two cents.

yeah i am sure that the ka and sr use the same splines as icehouse said. Also as icehouse said you just need to shorten the stock 510 driveshaft, so if you don't have one go find any datsun with an L-series engine and just take it out. Its really easy to shorten a driveshaft, i did it myself but the whole time i was very careful about warpage when welding it back up. Took it to a driveshaft shop and they said it looked good. There is no crazy vibration in the car when i am driving it so i am assuming that it is pretty straight. We will see how long the old u-joints hold up. If they fail I will probably try and fab up an aluminum driveshaft.

You are correct, my stock 510 driveshaft fits the SR transmission, so it's a simple matter of shortening it. I am a little concerned about putting my old U-joints into service with this motor. I guess I'll look around for new ones, so at least the bearings will be new.

bertvorgon, did you ever find that part number for the Datsun shim kit for the U-joints? Are replacement U-joints still available?

I got mine rebuilt and shortened for 145 I think, he didn't say anything about the u joints being hard to find.

I have too confirmed the 510 drive shaft slip yoke will engage the output shaft of the sr20det trans.
Just to compare, I have the original 510 unit next to this s13 slip yoke (not sure what model exactly) and they are almost identical except the shroud is longer on the 510 yoke by about 10mm.

icehouse wrote: ↑24 Sep 2006 17:41 I got mine rebuilt and shortened for 145 I think, he didn't say anything about the u joints being hard to find.

I miss those days! Seems to be much closer to 300 now.....

GreenPinch wrote: ↑11 May 2019 11:53 I have too confirmed the 510 drive shaft slip yoke will engage the output shaft of the sr20det trans.
Just to compare, I have the original 510 unit next to this s13 slip yoke (not sure what model exactly) and they are almost identical except the shroud is longer on the 510 yoke by about 10mm.

I always smack off the dust cover to get more engagement. It's normally 36" to 36.5" center of U-joint to center of U-joint.

I trimmed about 30mm of of my dust shield and left a little stub shield since it does fulfill a purpose of preventing a dirt barrage on the seal.