Chris' 72 Project

[heirfaus]

So I decided to rename this thread because I will be delving into much more than the motor. Especially in ties like this when I'm waiting on parts.

So today I spent alot of time pretty much finishing my "dynamat install". Originally started with Fatmat years ago and then I never continued on the interior. I bought some Second Skin brand to finish it up. About 95% done today. I have to put some in the doors and then I'm done. I'm putting that off for now because I want to move on to the carpet.

Next I am going to install some Second Skin Overkill between the bottom layer and the carpet.












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So here's my question, can I just get some spray adhesive, hit the Overkill with it, install overkill, hit the carpet with it, install carpet and that's it? I have no interior skills so I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.
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The Overkill:



Here's the rear carpet section upside down:

[jesusno2]

Chris here's what I always did with my trucks. Was laydown the sounddeading stuff. Then I liked to use jute padding of some kind even used house carpet padding before works good. I spray glue the padding down. Then the carpet is the hard part. I normally set it in and cut it all to size and try to get it to fit good in the corners like under the gas pedal, and the kickpanel areas is a PITA!! Then I pull up areas and spray glue in sections so I can keep working it from one corner to the other. Hope ya understood all that lol. if ya spray glue it and try to put it in all at once it it will look like hell. I like to use the 3M super adhesive works good for carpet.

[heirfaus]

Movin right along!!

[dat16v]

Won't that absorb water leading to rust?

[heirfaus]

Won't that absorb water leading to rust?

I thought someone would say that.

This is actually the driest and most rust free spot of my car. I feel ok about it

[jesusno2]

Is that carpet pre cut for a 510? if so ignor my previous post except the glueing part.

[heirfaus]

I have a lot more to update but I just typed a whole bunch and it all erased when I hit the wrong button.

[Byron510]

I have a lot more to update but I just typed a whole bunch and it all erased when I hit the wrong button.

UUUUUUUUUgggggggggHHHHH!!!!

I feel for you - I have done that so many times.

Now, once I notice that my thread is getting a bit long in the tooth, I cut and paste it to a word file, finish it, then cut and paste it back to the thread I was working on. At least you have a back up, and a spell and grammar check just for fun!
My word of wisdom for this fine Monday

Byron

PS BTW - Nice seats

[vintageracer510]

When I had my full size Bronco (and if you think 510's are noisy.....) I used the styrofoam building
insulation panels. They're available in various thicknesses, they're inexpensive, easy to cut, and glue up
on the inside of the body panels with Dow 77 spray glue, and you can seal the edges with duct tape.
I was running an agressive 35" tall off-road tire, and just using Supertrapps for mufflers. The reduction in
road and engine noise was amazing.

[heirfaus]

UUUUUUUUUgggggggggHHHHH!!!!

I feel for you - I have done that so many times.

Now, once I notice that my thread is getting a bit long in the tooth, I cut and paste it to a word file, finish it, then cut and paste it back to the thread I was working on. At least you have a back up, and a spell and grammar check just for fun!
My word of wisdom for this fine Monday

Byron

PS BTW - Nice seats

I have had this happen one too many times, so I think I will take your advice

When I had my full size Bronco (and if you think 510's are noisy.....) I used the styrofoam building
insulation panels. They're available in various thicknesses, they're inexpensive, easy to cut, and glue up
on the inside of the body panels with Dow 77 spray glue, and you can seal the edges with duct tape.
I was running an agressive 35" tall off-road tire, and just using Supertrapps for mufflers. The reduction in
road and engine noise was amazing.

I thought about using these, but I opted not to because they are flat and the body is curved. The poly fill and second skin worked GREAT!!! I drove about an hour and a half to Luke's and the reduction in noise was VERY sizable.

One thing I was going to point out is that I remember seeing someone putting in the 350Z seats in their dime and the seat was offset. That happens if you put the seat in centered over the factory mounts. If you line up the front left rivet hole of the 350z slider to the front left Datsun factory bolt hole the seat will be almost perfectly centered under the wheel. You can see that in the picture from the previous post.

Also I have seen 2 peoples cars missing the side trim which is uuuggggllllyyyyyy! If you just notched the pocket it fit's perfectly with 1" square tubing. I think I'm going to try 1.5 inch or maybe even 2. It's pretty low and my hands feel awkward so high up on the top of the wheel.

Oh and my carpet is pretty much done. I need to just finish off some finishing touchs

[Byron510]

Very nice Chris, I'll keep these seats in mind for my brothers 510; he's a big guy and needs something newer to support his sizable frame (not that I'm much smaller).
I have a set of black leather E30 sport seats that I offered him, but they need a bit of work which can be pricey, and I may be able to find a set of newer seats for nearly the same cost as fixing those old seats. Besides, the cloth is probably more comfortable in a hot 510.
Nice finishing job with the trim; you're right, missing pieces do look like crap

Byron

[heirfaus]

Finally on the project again!!




Putting my money towards other things I have put off getting head studs. Well I just received them today and am finally ready to roll!

that is a main stud kit, not a head stud kit.

The head studs are all quite a bit longer; six are long, and the other four are even longer.

Does this look better Rob?



So I'm looking for advice before I continue...(which is tomorrow so please reply SOON!!)
My questions?

#1 Main problem. I am going to do the final torque on the main studs and rods tomorrow but I am a little undecided on what to torque to. I dropped the block off at the machine shop with the main caps and the factory bolts. But now I am using the ARP. ARP says don't use factory torque specs, set all to 80ft/lbs(I think that's what it was, but in any case it's higher than the factory spec). Will this cause the main bearings to warp? Or is the pressure distributed differently with studs as opposed to bolts?

#2 I am going to try and check the piston to valve clearance tomorrow. How much and where should I apply the Play-doh?




Anyway, I need to have the new motor in by the end of June because I'm taking 20 credits this summer term

[Byron510]

Torque the studs to ARP's recommendation. Don't worry about the "stock" setting; that setting has to do with the bolts, not the block, main caps or bearings. The main caps will support the bearing fine. There's no way you’ll crush or distort the main caps - not to worry.
The studs can handle much higher loads due to their design of simply being a stud, and not a bolt twisting into a threaded hole. Also the strength of the stud (lubricated to specification) has been taken into account by ARP. Don't worry; they'll be fine - just follow ARP's torque recommendation. They've been in the game too long for us to second guess them. I will be doing the same with my stud kits (head and mains).

Byron

[heirfaus]

Thanks Byron - will do


So another question. I'm pretty much done putting the head together and the only thing left to do is torque the cam tower bolts and the very base piece of the rocker adjusters. I can't find these specs anywhere!!

[heirfaus]

Well I've working away in the garage today and thought I'd take a break and post some pics before I go back out there.

Oops I forgot about the mods for the fuel injection



Byron cover your eyes!! I had to do it by hand ghetto style









This thing sticks out WAY to far