72 Ultra Orange - Bucket List Restomod

[72ultraorange]

The body shop is doing a very good job,looks great.

Ron, thank you! Appreciate the feedback; so ready to get on to assembly… soon!

[72ultraorange]

Latest Update:

22 weeks (going on 6 months) since she went to paint and body… Little progress past couple of months. One car ahead of me then we are next for paint - hoping to get her back in next couple of months. Planning to install drive train and bring her back a roller with glass installed at the body shop.

Body Shop Update:
Trunk and hood are fitted. Rear trunk spoiler not installed yet; and converting trunk to hydraulic lifts to avoid clearance issues with fuel cell and trunk lift tensioners. Hood latch pins should go in this week. Bumpers installed to check fitment. Pictures below.

Transmission Rebuild:
Finally found a transmission expert to rebuild the transmission with upgraded gear set with reinforced shafts (OS-Giken)— and it has been in shop for 3 months! Ran into a few issues with parts. Apparently the gear set and drives I purchased are for a 1997+ FS5W71C transmission and the transmission I have is a pre-1997 transmission. The transmission bearing rebuild kit (purchased separately) had the wrong main shaft pilot bearing. AND that part is discontinued! Luckily I found one in another rebuild kit (ordered it) after I ordered one from Japan — that has not shipped yet. ….

Additionally the retainer nuts on the shafts are 1 use only since they are peened. Found these and ordered them— but these are not just sitting down at your local hardware store. Also had the transmission housing vapor honed — looks like new — will look good with the SR20 when we get them together in a few weeks. Good news — we will have the transmission back this week — will share some pictures of this once I get this back.

Questions for anyone:
- On the bumpers, there are bolt holes that connect the bumper corners to the fenders (front and back) Any reason why these bolts need to be installed?
- I also partially disassembled the steering column to get it powder coated — need to spend some more quality time on this… it is currently locked and looks to be quite the ordeal to get it disassembled (will be reaching out to Stu and Owen for some help on this - since they did this recently). Any easy way to do this?

Other miscellaneous work going on: The anodizing for the rotor hats was fading — powder coated the hats and am re-assembling the rotors. Trying to finish the steering column powder coating - or painting depending on disassembly I also need to get new CV shaft boots installed — since the axles came in contact with housing and cut the boot when I was disassembling…. Outside of this; just focusing on getting her back to a roller with fresh paint right now. Will get to the fun part soon. Looking forward to getting past the million parts everywhere stage.
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Latest from Body Shop:

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FS5W71C Transmission Rebuild - OS-Giken Upgraded Gears/Shafts for 1997+ transmissions:

Incorrect Pilot Bearing (for pre 1997 version transmission)

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Receiver for pilot bearing on input shaft

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Gear set upgrade kit required this larger bearing to work with larger rollers with new input shaft:

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New on left; Original on Right:

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[RONSLYCHUK]

As far as the bumper bolts myself and Keith(bertvorgon) have left them off. It will save your fenders if you have a bump with something unforeseen.

[Stu]

I'm not sure if I would powder coat the upper part of the steering column because the bearings really can't be removed and the cleaning (sand often times) and baking process will ruin some of the internals. This is one of those items where a good degrease, scuff, and paint is the best route. The lower portion has some bushings and such and might be OK but I would just go with paint on this portion too. I only took mine apart becasuse it felt a bit crunchy. If yours is smooth turning, then just clean, scuff, paint.

[72ultraorange]

As far as the bumper bolts myself and Keith(bertvorgon) have left them off. It will save your fenders if you have a bump with something unforeseen.

Ron, thanks for this advice. I also got the same recommendation from eastbaysolo_73. I asked the body shop to cut the tabs off the bumpers for fitment and weld up the holes on all 4 corners before painting.

[72ultraorange]

I'm not sure if I would powder coat the upper part of the steering column because the bearings really can't be removed and the cleaning (sand often times) and baking process will ruin some of the internals. This is one of those items where a good degrease, scuff, and paint is the best route. The lower portion has some bushings and such and might be OK but I would just go with paint on this portion too. I only took mine apart becasuse it felt a bit crunchy. If yours is smooth turning, then just clean, scuff, paint.

Stu, agree with your assessment; and after reviewing your steering column refurbishment post
(https://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.p ... 15#p294015), looks like something that will be more than I want go dig into; and will be lucky to get reassembled properly. Mine has some crunchiness also with some debris in the movement. I should just ship mine to you for the rebuild.

Unbelievable build you have going and awesome write-ups! Thank you and hope to see your’s running soon.

[iceman510]

Do you mind divulging the trans rebuilder? Not easy to find someone except for a few specialist to do this level of work these days.

[72ultraorange]

Do you mind divulging the trans rebuilder? Not easy to find someone except for a few specialist to do this level of work these days.

Hey Iceman510, I searched the planet over to find someone to rebuild the FS5W71C (S14 5-Speed MT)... it took some time and searching... No one wants to touch these things! I am certain there are other specialty shops -- none I could find here in Dallas -- Aamco looked at it and declined, and even the friends of the friends of the techs at several other shops declined...

I had narrowed down to 4 options - Ultimately went with Hackler Transmissions in Dallas, TX https://hacklertransmission.com/

Here's my list:

1) Ezekiel Lee at https://cmautohaus.com/ in Freemont, CA
** he had a couple of youtubes rebuilding one of these
** I recently contacted him due to some challenges with the parts to rebuild the one I have - Super Nice Guy!
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OWI7kz5hCo
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KejALa78KGs
* I was at a point I was planning to ship this to him a few weeks ago -- but my shop in Dallas (#3 below) came through

2) Standard Transmission & Gear - https://standardtransmission.com/?no_redirect=true in Fort Worth, TX
** had problems getting consistent communications from them and elected not to go with them

3) Hackler Transmissions - https://hacklertransmission.com/ in Dallas, TX
** They have it and are working to get it finished -- their expert on this kind of work has been doing this for decades
** had to get some more parts -- the OS-Giken kit was for 1997+ transmission and mine is a pre-1997 transmission -- main issue was pilot bearing

4) The OS-Giken tech support folks recommended someone in Los Angeles who they previously referred all their rebuild work.
** I called them but they didn't remember this work -- as it had been so long.
** I am sure they could do the work - and unfortunately I didn't save their contact info.
** Will call OS-Giken back and ask again...

AND - Precision Vapor Honing of the housing by - https://mporiumbmw.com/

As for the parts list that went into this:

Gearset: OS-NS052-GS - OS Giken 5-spd Close Ratio Gearbox Kit w/ Reinforced Main and Input Shaft - Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DE

Transparts Warehouse - Ordered 2 Kits (#1 had the wrong Pilot Bearing), (#2 - BK133E had the 1997+ Pilot bearing)
** Over bought parts here -- so have some extra parts
BK133BWS - Nissan Truck 2WD 5 Speed Transmission Rebuild Kit 93-95
BK133E - NISSAN FS5W71C FS5W71H TRANSMISSION BEARING & SEAL REBUILD KIT

Misc. Bearings – These have seals on them - didn’t know if I need 3 or 6?
1 -Nissan – Ball Bearings – Main Drive Bearing (32203-69F70)
1 -Nissan – Ball Bearing – Main Shaft (32273-91P70)
1 -Nissan – Ball Bearing – (32273-86W70)

GKTech Short Throw Shifter - https://us.gktech.com/products/v2-s13-s ... rt-shifter

Ebay - Nissan - 32236-E9500 - Counter Shaft Nut
Ebay - Nissan - 32354-E9803 - Main Shaft Nut

Nismo – 30620-RS520 Clutch Cyclinder (30620-RS520)
Nissan – Speed Sensor Assembly (25010-71T00)
Nissan – Throw out bearing retainer spring (30514-14600)
Nissan – Reverse Lamp Switch (32005-21U1B)
Nissan – Clutch Fork Dust Boot (30542-01S00)
Nissan – Pinion Speedometer (32743-71T20) – will be using GPS speedometer however
Nissan - Pinion Speedometer Ring Lock (32744-71T00)
Nismo – Clutch Fork Pivot Ball (30537-RS540)
Nissan – Neutral Position Switch (32006-32G2A)
Nissan – Clutch Sleeve and Bearing (will be replaced with OS-Giken supplied)
Nissan- Clutch Fork Retainer Spring (30534-E900)
Nissan – Yoke Sleeve Dust Cover (32135-01G1A)
Nissan – Clutch Release Fork / Arm (30531-01S00)

[iceman510]

Thanks for the thorough response. I couldn't recall what your base transmission was for this, but looked back and it was clearly posted in your initial post. I have a couple older ZX 71Bs of unknown condition, so I was basically asking in reference to them. Appreciate it.

[72ultraorange]

Quick update - Got the transmission back - ready to install at the body shop soon. The clutch fork, throw out bearing, and hydraulic cylinder will be installed later.

Here are a few pictures:

Kinda Boring - what’s inside is not

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They will be together hopefully soon - body shop is taking way longer than expected:

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[72ultraorange]

Stopped by the P&B Shop last weekend to check on the 510 and “help” . The car has been moved into the paint booth. Some shop staff turnover has left some of the minor detail work on my car unfinished. Just a small amount of metal work to finalize and then we can get it painted. Think we are on track to get these items done; and I went through the list with the lead painter - but will be working with them to close this out on weekends (as necessary)

Key items that need to be finished before paint:
- Rear FRP Spoiler needs to be installed / holes drilled
- Fender bumper mounting holes need to be patched (x4)
- The lower rocker panel trim pieces are not going to fit with the fender flares without significant additional mods to the fender flares
* decided to not put the trim back; and will be welding up the 4 mounting holes on each rocker panel.
- The hood latches have not been installed yet
- Trunk hydraulic lifts have not been installed; original torsen bars will interfere with fuel cell plumbing

I decided to mock up the hydraulic spring lifts for the trunk - and ordered some parts to “try”.
Inspiration for this came from one of the Mopar forums. I will work on getting this right for the 510 and post the final setup.
IF ANYONE HAS DONE THIS ALREADY please let me know. Thanks!
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... 779/page-2
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... go.312779/

Update… I found this great description for determining the proper springs and some methodology for installation here:
Am going to review this closely to determine what I might need to do to modify my installation plan. Based on this, I am way off on my 90 degree closed positioning of the gas strut with my mock up.
https://youtu.be/NPkTz6OWUJw


First the car was in the paint booth — we are up next!

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Hydraulic lift mock up:
- I weighed the trunk lid at the closed position with a fishing hanging scale - it was between 14-15 lbs
- used a piece of cardboard to make a triangular style bracket to weld to the wheel well inside the trunk
- cut a coat hanger and straightened it to simulate the spring
- made sleeve out of painters tape to act as a pivot ball on the trunk hinge
- marked the coat hanger while trunk was opened, cut it and then closed the trunk and marked the coat hanger again through the rear light fixture hole

Some pictures of the very “ROUGH” mock up:

Cardboard bracket template taped to wheel well; plan is this will be welded to wheel well as lower pivot

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Coat hanger and tape sleeve at rough pivot point on trunk hinge open

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Coat hanger marked and cut for full extended length of simulated spring

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Secured coat hanger to cardboard bracket and closed trunk. Marked Coat hanger at hinge pivot sleeve to represent closed spring position

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Took the measurements and tried to find a hydraulic spring that was “close”…
This is ultimately going to take some trial and error.

Here are the trial parts I purchased — and will give them a try this weekend

Supplier: Lift Supports Depot
- 2 - 10mm Ball Studs for hinges
- 2 - ~14” Lift supports with 10mm claw ball sockets 25lb lift each

Supplier: McMaster-Carr
- 2 - Ball Stud Mounting Brackets for Gas Springs

Will update with part numbers “if” they work. Stay tuned

[Stu]

Do you not have them or just don't like the long torsion springs? Did you look at going more 'forward and back' and connect to somewhere under the rear package tray? This would hide the gas struts more and not reduce any of the trunk space (looks like the proposed lower mount would be easy to hit with stuff in the trunk and or have a large cut out in the trunk divider wall thingy)

[72ultraorange]

Do you not have them or just don't like the long torsion springs? Did you look at going more 'forward and back' and connect to somewhere under the rear package tray? This would hide the gas struts more and not reduce any of the trunk space (looks like the proposed lower mount would be easy to hit with stuff in the trunk and or have a large cut out in the trunk divider wall thingy)

Hey Stu, Great questions — I do have the torsion springs; the issue is that my fuel cell filler neck would interfere with the torsion springs side to side. The fuel filler occupies the space where the fuel vapor expansion tank was. I didn’t look at alternative placement of the torsion springs when I was mocking up the fuel cell due to this and the clearance issue / gas spring solution was something that I thought about later… When I get the car back, we can look at the torsion springs again. For now, I am going to try the spring lifts - Ultimately the spring will be on top of the wheel well and not interfere as much with luggage and strollers in the trunk when I take those cross-country family vacations in the 510

I do think adding a partition/divider to hide the wheel well area would be a nice finish out. Have a lot of work to do before we get to that; but you have me thinking about this — the divider could be slotted to fit around the gas spring near the hinge pivot points.

Here is the updated rough plan for the install point on top of the wheel well. This should work better — but may take some trial and error. The springs are 14” extended, 8” compressed, with about ~5-6” stroke.

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The clearance on the fuel cell is like this…(such a long time ago)

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[ostaylor]

I have been considering my options for my build and heating / potentially cooling. Was surprised that my Realm search turned up your build for where I had landed with Vintage Air... So many similarities between our builds that I will definitely be following to see how what you have purchased from Vintage works out. My car is going in to the paint shop in a few days - can you tell me whether you closed some or all of the original heater related firewall holes? I am thinking I should have them do that as I am very likely to go with the Vintage Air heating and cooling that you have.

[72ultraorange]

I have been considering my options for my build and heating / potentially cooling. Was surprised that my Realm search turned up your build for where I had landed with Vintage Air... So many similarities between our builds that I will definitely be following to see how what you have purchased from Vintage works out. My car is going in to the paint shop in a few days - can you tell me whether you closed some or all of the original heater related firewall holes? I am thinking I should have them do that as I am very likely to go with the Vintage Air heating and cooling that you have.

Hey Owen, The Vintage Air solution seemed to be more flexible than some of the others; the evaporator unit I purchased has heat, cool, and defrost. Findiing a compressor for the SR20 was a challenge and wasn’t sure if the older compressors would work with the Vintage air unit. I decided to go with a Sanden compressor but it requires a new bracket to be fabricated to work on the SR20. Congrats on you project getting to paint! I hope you have good luck with a 6 week paint schedule. Mine has been in the P&B shop for 7 months — BUT some complicated work for them getting all the body panels fitted and the diffuser made; and some staff turnover. I did have the engine bay shaved — and closed ALL the holes that I don’t need; including the original firewall holes for the heater core. I will probably have to drill a few holes later to mount various items; but i pre drilled the holes for the AC/ Heat plumbing.

Here’s a picture of the engine bay. The new bulkhead holes for the evaporator are covered in tape on the left side - 2 near the top where the engine wiring harness comes through the firewall; and 2 down lower. All other holes have been closed except for brake / clutch cylinders.

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