Jeff's '70 2 Door

[slowerthantime]

There has been some progress on the engine with a promise to have it finished by the end of next week...Cheque is in the mail etc etc. It's already 5 months late.

Keith, you might get that test drive this fall.

The crank is balanced, polished and installed.



Rods have Ampco 45 bushings installed.



Port matching the intake manifold is underway. This flange is going to get a few beads of weld to thicken up the wall.



I think I have most of the systems on the car sorted. I looped the fuel feed and return lines. Thankfully no leaks and judging by the sound of fuel splashing back into the tank, the restrictor screw on the return line seems to flow ok.

The washer pump sounded good but didn't work when I put water into it. With only universal pumps available for replacement, I decided to pull it apart. The impeller and shaft are slotted but there was no key, just a chunk of rust. I made a key out of a piece of aluminium and put it back together, it works like a charm. Sorry forgot to take a pic of the key...just a tiny rectangle.

[bertvorgon]

As we head into fall, a nice drive your way might be in order.

I will bring my fire suit and helmet.

Car is looking amazing!

[Stu]

Car is looking awesome. Glad the wiper motor timing change worked well.

Is the breaker at the battery for the main lead to the starter or just the chassis circuits?

[slowerthantime]

Hey Stu,
The breaker is on the line to the alternator. My wiring is based on Paulo's battery relocation diagram with some minor changes for additional fuse panel and 4 post shut off switch in the dash.
https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/f ... KZdeEO-7fg

[Stu]

Thanks. I might do something similar so there is not a huge live wire running the full length of the car. What amperage are you running on the breaker? I like the Blue Sea 187 Series breakers (https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... face_Mount) because they are a switch/breaker combo so I can 'eliminate' the battery cut-off switch.

[slowerthantime]

Hey Stu, the breaker is 60 amp. That switch/ breaker combo would be much more elegant.



Some progress on the engine:

Oil holes chamfered before final honing. Sorry about the crappy pic.


Break line chamfered.


Rods shot peened. Pistons and rods assembled and balanced. Will find pics of balancing etc and post later. 11 grams was the biggest difference at the big end.


Short block together. New ARP hardware all around.
https://i.imgur.com/T1hN8iP.mp4

[slowerthantime]

A little bit closer...

Cam polished.


Getting closer to a test fit.

[slowerthantime]

During the test fit the valve seals were getting pinched so we went looking for something shorter. Tried VG30 seals but they were the same as what I had. Read somewhere on here about Ford V6 seals (part # SS 72686 Fel Pro), they are shorter and the the valve guides needed a trim of about 1/16th.



Head is back together and starting re-install.

[slowerthantime]

Valve timing done. Dave degreed the cam and installed new timing set: TRW chain, OE crank sprocket and Nismo cam sprocket. Stoked to get this back soon.

[CP]

Who is doing your assembly and machine work. Looks great.

[Stu]

Looks awesome. Clean and shiny motors are always so satisfying.

[slowerthantime]

CP, engine work is by Dave at Precision Performance Machine in Penticton.

[slowerthantime]

The engine assembly is progressing well. Harmonic balancer and headers installed. The intake manifold needed a little welding to beef up one of the flanges that was a bit thin after porting.The weld needs a little more refinement for best fitment.



Pulley alignment is a bit of a pain. Between the damper and the alternator, nothing matches. The Professional Products damper is sold as being "dimensionally identical" to the OE pulley, which might be a bit not true. The belt v is definitely closer to the engine than any of the OE crank pulleys that I have. This is a 510 water pump with unknown pulley which leaves about 15mm offset to the crank pulley +/- eyeball error.



I also have a 280 ZX water pump which is 12mm shorter, mounting face to pulley flange.



Unfortunately the 280 ZX pulley flange is wider, different bolt pattern and has a bigger pilot hole. So we pressed the pulley flange off and decided to turn it down and re-drill the pulley mounting holes to use the 510 pulley. This will leave very little clearance between the pulley and the water pump mounting bolts. Will find out tomorrow if it works.

[cwd240z]

Engine work is looking great. Hopefully that water pump fix works, I had no idea the ZX pump was a different depth.

[iceman510]

There was a special small diameter pulley sold at one time, I believe for use with a S30 Z water pump on the 510 (presumably L16). I don't know how a Z and ZX water pump may be different, so no input there on whether that part would have a different mounting depth and be useful here.

Everything looks nice.