The 510 Realm

Thanks to Robyn, I picked up a relay and headlight switch.

Today I tried the relay and even though it clicked nice and solidly, the lights did not come on.

Let the mining begin.....

Hi Keith,

Any success? Just a thought. I've had past issues with the factory loom connectors inside the fire wall. The problem is not obvious because the wiring is encased in the plastic plug. When separated, there was evidence of arching and corrosion. My brother had a similar experience with his Zed car.

Good luck,
Shaun.

Arcing, as in a poor connection. Is that even the correct spelling?

I actually spent spent some of this morning both jacking up my car for the half shaft test fit and, un-bolting my seat to get ready for dash module removal.

I have thought of all sorts of scenarios for wiring issues, so until I get to and test the switch, we won't know what the next step will be.

I am hoping that the fact the outage was instantaneous, that it is a component failure. No dulling or flickering of lights, just OUT.

Arcing is the correct spelling.

Though my headlights are rewired with a new loom and relays feeding directly off the alternator using the light switch only as an on/off I had a inner high beam light suddenly stop working on the drivers side. Though not the same as Keith's the failures are the same as in instant. Checked both relays as good and power out to the high beams good, even the bulb was good. Which meant a disconnect between the relay and lamp. So with meter in hand I started poking the power feed from the relay to the lamps socket and found halfway through the wires length no power. So I removed the harness and unraveled the the insulation in that area and found a splice. Power to but no power out so I simply cut out the splice and fixed it and good to go.

Yesterday I had to go back to the garage to help my son-in-law put his trailer back into the garage, it had been in California getting some upgrades.

I thought I might as well keep going on the dash, so I pulled my seat out and began. First step is to remove tach, then take all those screws out of the column surround. Peel that away carefully as my A/F is attached to that. Then, take the upper and side screws out of the instrument panel.

I then carefully pull the two pyro gauges out, undoing the power and ground from the lower one, thus letting them both come out after unplugging the actual thermocouple wire.

Next is I have to remove my fan switch, so I can loosen and rotate the fan light, remove that, so I can get at a screw that mounts that to the bottom of the instrument panel, letting that module drop down. There are also a LOT of ground wires to be undone, hope I can remember them all upon reassembly.

I shone my light up to the bottom of the light switch....and there it was.....a solder joint had failed...exactly like Andy had run into!!!!!!

I then carefully worked the instrument panel out, undoing the turn signal lights and the ground wire from my low oil pressure light.

I carefully removed the fiber optic module bulb, pulled the wiper/light switch out and the fiber optic module. I am going to put a fresh bulb into the fiber optic module.

I might just remove the plastic covers for the other instrument to just give them a quick clean, there is 46 years worth of haze on them. Other than the turns, the speedo/tach/fuel/etc, are not used on my car, so not worried about changing their bulbs. I kinda like low lighting anyhow as it is better for night vision when driving. I hate today's new vehicles when the high beam light blinds you with blue, let alone other warning things.

The 73' switch is on the left, it is wider, to accommodate the fiber optic cable, but the length is the same as are the plugs.

I am going to try to make it over to Specialty today and re-solder this and get it all back together by tomorrow.

In Image #51 you can see the popped solder joint.

I have had a bad squeak from my clutch pedal, so this is going to be a good time to address that while it is easy to get at. I did a lap on a lot of dash screws, etc, to re-tighten, amazing what loosens up after all these years.

Not proud of my wiring under there, my only defense is that is was all done during my major combat years, where it was just a case of get it done before the next event or whatever. Every time I had a problem or issue show up, it was a case of installing a gauge or thermocouple to see what was going on.

Oh...JEFF WINS!!!!

bertvorgon wrote: ↑21 Nov 2018 08:10 Oh...JEFF WINS!!!!

haha smartest man in the world!!!!!


Keith like I said earlier, I've never had a re-solder last, it seems as the switch ages the amount of resistance goes up, making the problem reoccur. I had one I re-solder only last one day! Maybe you will get lucky.

I am hoping that next spring, I will be doing my headlight upgrade and this switch will only be a trigger point for the relays.

silver solder ?

I have a 2lb roll of solder, I am going to encapsulate the whole switch, shrink wrap it, then electricians tape, epoxy the capsule, then foam it, set that into a small box and pour concrete around it!

I tested the one out of the dash that only lasted one day. It was so incredibly hot!! After just a few minutes. I tried spraying contact cleaner into it. it didn't help... I hope you have better luck. I don't want you to burn down your racecar before I get a chance to drive it

There was no sign of overheating at all, in looking at the break, I would suggest vibration finally took it's toll on a joint that maybe was marginal right from the factory. It was exactly like the one Andy ran into and it is still going strong the he re-soldered.

I will be off to the garage tomorrow to rebuild the dash.