The 510 Realm

Now that would have been a good idea, duh!

Extruded frame for a old cork board, kinda brittle.

Aluminum sheet I buy is 5052, so it can be formed.

So, you know and I know that you cover 12V+ terminals so they don't arc accidentally. The PO(s) of Barney didn't learn that lesson. When I first got Barney the battery was oriented so the terminals were facing towards the engine; I flipped the battery around and rerouted the cables so the terminals were between the battery and the inner fender well. With the battery secured by the clamp, there's no chance of it arcing under normal circumstances. No problem.

Problem occurred at the alternator, which on this iteration of the SBC is loud and proud top and center. I was converting the carb to a mechanical choke from electric and the cable housing flopped around as I pulled it from the tranny tunnel. It arced at the BAT+ terminal on the alternator. No real harm to the car, but as I was holding the choke cable at the time, two fingers got grazing burns. Not fun, but nothing holding some frozen peas couldn't tame. Next project is to install a boot over the BAT+ terminal

I had a similar experience with the emergency brake cable on my first 510. It literally caught on fire (the grease inside and plastic sheath) as it was the only path left for that fat 12v, it turned into a rusty long cinder! Luckily it was 1976 so I just bought a new cable!

We could likely all learn something from this.
I know the + terminal at the back of my alt is an uninsulated stud.
No doubt the same as 95% (or more) of the alternators out there in 510's...

Thanks for the reminder to do something about it. And hopefully the fingers heal soon – burns are nasty. I’ll take a cut any day over a burn.

Byron

I'm surprised I missed this thread! Beautiful chevy Julian. Just fyi, I picked up some beauty rings from oriellys for $20 for my nova. Not sure if they'll work for your steelies but worth looking. I have the distributor, coil, and wires from my sbc since converting to hei if you need them for any reason. I can't sell the things so free of charge.

finn wrote:I picked up some beauty rings from oriellys for $20 for my nova. Not sure if they'll work for your steelies but worth looking. I have the distributor, coil, and wires from my sbc since converting to hei if you need them for any reason. I can't sell the things so free of charge.

Hey Finn,

My steelies are 17", so I'd assume O'Rielly's rings are for more normal-sized steelies. Barney has HEI already, but I appreciate the offer!

Out with the old:
In with the new:

So, that iron pipe fitting...

Dude, it's galvanized

Block's already iron, so I'm not that bothered by it. It's low-hack compared to some stuff I've already fixed. No heater on a '50 Chevy, so I assume the truck the engine originally came from had heater tie-in here.

http://www.amazon.com/Beauty-Wheel-Ring ... B00355MO1K

My vote is go for the ring!

The Sisyphean odyssey continues. Got some additional block-to-chassis and chassis-to-frame grounds installed. Installed the WBO2 gauge and sensor. Put lock washers on the finger-tight engine mount bolts (thanks PO). Changed the oil and filter (made easier by the finger-tight oil drain plug ).

Went around back to move the brake line bracket that the PO welded to the axle directly below the RH exhaust pipe...who then proceeded to put 3" lowering blocks on the car so that the brake bracket pounds the exhaust when the car goes over any sort of bump. Anyway, tried to move the hard line out of the way so I could get at the bracket with my angle grinder. Snapped the hard line. Naturally.

I have a whole rear suspension kit for this that will fix the too-lowered issue (2" drop instead of 3"). But it's going to be a PITA to swap it all out. Might just get some 2" lowering blocks for the short term...

ahhhhhhh. fun times.

^^

...I'm reminded of why I have chosen to modify stock cars in the past.