SU Twin Carb Heat Shield Plate

[PMCS Rally]

I am planning to replace my bad Hitachi stock carb with SU Twin. I am missing a heat shield plate and think I have to make one.
Does anyone have a template or dimensional info of this shield plate? It has been many years and I do not recall how it looked like. I need this mainly to connect carb return springs and if someone has any other suggestions, I would appreciate. Also, is there any source of twin choke cable?

Thank you in advance.

[okayfine]

If you don't have the stock plate then you probably don't have the stock return springs. Since all the plate really does is provide a spot to hook the springs, dimensions for the stock piece don't really matter and might make you make a copy instead of making something more useful (in terms of heat deflection).

I have the 46mm SU bolt flange digitized, and since the 38mm carbs use the same mount spacing (just two instead of four bolts), I could create a digital pattern for the 38s. Not that that's truly helpful, but it could be a start. In essence, I'm suggesting making your own, though you could probably find someone with a spare to sell...

[okayfine]

Uploaded carb and filter flange templates for SUs.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id= ... sp=sharing

[two_68_510s]

Pics of old shield:
Top

WP_20131002_001[1].jpg (509.1 KiB) Viewed 6431 times

Bottom

WP_20131002_002[1].jpg (440.26 KiB) Viewed 6431 times

Spring mounts

WP_20131002_003[1].jpg (300.34 KiB) Viewed 6431 times

[PMCS Rally]

Thank you all. Now I got a good idea of what I am looking for. Mine came with two return springs but it seems like a "hybrid" of 240Z SU and 510 manifold.

Thanks again.

[510wizard]

Thank you all. Now I got a good idea of what I am looking for. Mine came with two return springs but it seems like a "hybrid" of 240Z SU and 510 manifold.

Thanks again.

Note: that the "Z" SU's butterflies turn in the opposite direction than the 510 SU's

[Sealik]

I made my own, somewhat based/scaled on this pic.....to fit 46mm SUs

[Bike papa]

Thanks for asking about the heat shield and thanks to (the other) Joel for posting up the pics. I've searched every square inch of my garage looking for mine and it's nowhere to be found so I'll be building my own. Fortunately I have access to all kinds of sheetmetal so I won't have to run the risk of becoming a felon for stealing a stop sign LOL.
BP

PS. I was thinking about having it ceramic coated to help with the heat deflection. even if it doesn't keep things cool it I think that it will at least look cool,

[PMCS Rally]

That's a nice piece. Thanks for your input.

[yenpit]

The Triumph TR6 has a dual choke cable, OEM part # UKC2121, aka # 734-270 from Moss Motors. It has 2 cables, should have solid core cables, which means that you "push" the choke off, although having return springs also helps, and a nice looking square black plastic knob with the British "choke" logo on it. You might find a used one, but like most used choke cables, not really worth the hassle!

[PMCS Rally]

Thanks for your input.

I made a heat sheld plate and mounted SU asssembly. It fits on the engine OK but it did not work. It hits kick down switch (?? no big deal) and the gas pedal linkage does not line up with manifold side. I decided to overhaul bad Hitachi single carb.

[StrutlessWonder]

Post pics. I bet we can help you with both issues.

[okayfine]

Heat shield shouldn't have affected the linkage alignment, though that doesn't tend to be great on SU swaps unless you move the firewall bracket over. But as far as the shield, nothing a little more cutting shouldn't clear up.

[PMCS Rally]

Thanks, guys.

The problem was not a heat sheild. By the way, thanks all...I made a very good one.

I already removed SU and put the single carb manifold back on so I placed SU assembly on it and took a picture just to show my problem.

The receptacle on the intake manifold does not align with the linkage from fire wall. Position of manifold receptacle is too close to the engine and too high and far from fire wall side. Also you see the float chamber and gas switch box.

[okayfine]

No non-USDM cars came with the points switch box, and everyone in the US that runs SUs has already removed that box (and likely upgraded to EI). The stock linkage rod does need to be massaged, but typically isn't an issue. Other fixes are also available. Doesn't matter if you've got the downdraft running.