my 510 resurection project

[goichi1]

I have a Miller Dynasty 200DX with cooler. More heat brings more problems into the mix too, warping and distortion. It becomes a really delicate balance.

[510wizard]

Guys, on the heat thing, how many amps are you running on, say 1/8" material ? You should be running 125 amps. Take the material thickness, say .125" (1/8") divide by .001 and that gives 125 amps at full pedal down. Now try this test. Take this 1/8" material, weld at say 85 amps, You push the pedal to the floor, heat finally builds to form the puddle, you add the filler and move forward. Great ya, but in allowing the heat to build at only 85 amps the heat is soaked into a larger portion of the surrounding metal. Now try with the heat at the correct amperage (125 amps). You push the pedal to the floor, heat builds quickly,puddle forms, add filler and move forward quickly. Sure at the correct heat, things are happening a lot quicker, you have to move the touch and the filler a lot quicker, but notice that the heat hasn't soaked into the surrounding metal. Try the test, I think that it will help you.

A gas lens is the only way to go, you will have a lot less turbulence of the gas especially in the corners (the screen in the gas lens is what causes less turbulence) , better coverage, can have more stick out of the tungsten. And you can decrease the cfm because of better coverage.

[MCMLXXXV]

I will try that right tonight thx for the advice

[goichi1]

Thanks Monte, I will also try that as I have had my AMP's set at only 85. I understand exactly now because it does take a little bit to get the puddle, which would explain the heat soak, which has been my biggest problem lately. Damn.....I should have ask you those questions earlier......thanks again

[MCMLXXXV]

got my tie rods and just bought a weir tech header flange for the project



should get my fel-pro gasket set soon too so I'll be able to finish the engine for now I will finish the welding on the body and start the putty/primer work...

[MCMLXXXV]

made a bit more yesterday

installed the left fender frame





tie rods plus camber plates



the car was actually very low lol but with the camber plate installed its much too low



and here is the cart I made for the welder

[MCMLXXXV]

flange came in today , very nice piece!!

I will have my mandrel bend done this week a couple of 120deg 45deg and 90 deg

I will try to do something like this:

[MCMLXXXV]

massive update :

pictures of day one :



















and how it look today

[MCMLXXXV]

did my steering box brace



and stitch welded the shock towers



now I'm about to fit the wilwood pedal assembly but the steering column is right where it would set because there is no curve in the pedal arms ... So im thinking about modifying the steering column but I wonder how...

Can I put more than 2 joints in a steering column ?

did some of you already get into this ? I would like to see how yo install those

[okayfine]

Can you move the pedal box to the left, then attach the pedal pads so they skew right? I used a Wilwood pedal box for my 3-wheeler and the pads move 1.5" or so horizontally.

[MCMLXXXV]

Can you move the pedal box to the left, then attach the pedal pads so they skew right? I used a Wilwood pedal box for my 3-wheeler and the pads move 1.5" or so horizontally.

That could have been done .. but not with the set I bought (should have tought about it before ... )

I have these:



I was thinking on adding some joints to the steering column and to install a bearing in the firewall between the pedals

like this bearing:



with a custom steering shaft to get the deviation I need (doable with 3 joints)

what do you think ?

[okayfine]

People are doing similar (3 joints) with some of the R&P conversions. Careful to keep the u-joints all in phase with one another, and obviously the shafts will need various support.

Is it too late to return the pedal box you bought/exchange it? Lots of dual individual BMC conversions in 510s that don't need steering shaft relocation.

[MCMLXXXV]

yeah too late ... could still resell it but I will need to work the column anyway because I want it to be supported by the roll cage with adjustable height . could have been done with two joints but adding one more is not that bad .

I will try to get the roll cage parts before the week-end and then see how I can fit things around this

[Byron510]

I'm sure the box you pictured is the same pedal box I put into 510Rob's car. I'll have to look for the photos tonight.

But I straddled the column, and it works just fine. I did the same on my own pedal box, only I used the Tilton lower ratio box and the stubby M/C's - I heavily do not recommend either component. Both have been a nightmare and at a higher cost. Live and learn.

Byron

[MCMLXXXV]

ho ! nice to know , witch stubby M/C's ?

That would be great if you get me some pictures of that