The White Sloth Project

[Byron510]

That’s a sweet plate. All of my cars have standard "510" plates - even my 'ute has one in reverse. I was never able to score a DAT, SSS, WPL or NSN or anything in the letter department.

Like Washington, out plates used to be LLL ###, now they are LL# ##L. So it is possible in British Columbia as of last summer that a plate PL5 10X will exist.

I do know a guy here in Vancouver who has two different standard plates on his roadsters, SPL 411 and SRL 410 which are the body designations of those cars - now that's pretty cool.

Your plate is awesome just the same.

Byron

[Colbino]

Hey what happened to the pic of handle?, now my post makes no sense!

Haha. I did end up reading your post twice. Still didn't get it.

[two_68_510s]

Well I thought you had a pic of your door handle up. loosing it?

[Colbino]

Well I thought you had a pic of your door handle up. loosing it?

Ahh. Yes. I do. Or did.
Edit: Yep. It's still there. Page 8.

[Colbino]

SPL 411 and SRL 410

Byron

Wow. That's amazing!

[Colbino]

Finally got down to Cali. and got the old gal off to R&R Automotive/Rebello Racing

off_2_rebello.jpg (273.84 KiB) Viewed 5533 times

rebello.jpg (352.74 KiB) Viewed 5533 times

I was hoping they had some of these!

rebello_decals.jpg (426.28 KiB) Viewed 5533 times

[Colbino]

Quick 510 update...

After 8 years of restoring/improving/screwing-up my car is in the hands of professionals; R&R Automotive and Rebello Racing out of Antioch Ca.

• The front windshield is in! Only took 4 tries, but it's in. Hell yeah!
So much conflicting information regarding the best method to install a windshield. In the end, for my situation anyway, the chrome needed to be out of the seal until after the window was in. This was tried by a prior installer, but I don't think he had much experience with the older rope style install method.

• One of the carb's idle mixture screw's tip was broken off. Luckily the broken tip didn't need to be drilled out!

mixture_screws.jpg (197.17 KiB) Viewed 5440 times

• Incorrect NGK plugs used. Apparently I bought BP7ES which protrude too much into the combustion chamber. Luckily no collision damage there!

• Indexed new and correct plugs.

• The Engine is very loud - mechanically. They're trying to figure out why. Could be piston slap, but they're still investigating. I did replace the gasket with a Nismo 88.5mm one, so I know it's not hitting the 87mm piston. Before I rebuilt the cylinder head, the prior gasket was a Fel-pro that did protrude over the bore! A lot of unknowns with the lower half as that part of the engine was not torn down or built by myself and came with the car. Prior owner was no help either: No surprise there!

• New jets being installed/sorted to tune. Larger main jets accompanying the car up to WA due to the change in air density from CA.

• Found out the rear carb for cylinder number 3 was not drilled out (from OER) and thus no fuel was making it into the cylinder after idle.

carb.jpg (227.47 KiB) Viewed 5440 times

• Clutch issues...
Brand new Roadster PP + 200mm clutch disc = failure. I'm still trying to figure out how this happened. In all my research I've never come across anyone else with this type of failure. Maybe the PP was miss-marked? Maybe the type of disc used caused the interference? Not sure.

clutch failure.jpg (369.12 KiB) Viewed 5415 times

Ordered a new PP today. Went with the clutchnet stage 3, which I know for sure works with my clutchnet organic disc.
http://tinyurl.com/q655qfe

• Charging issue/ Run-on...
Upgraded my Alternator to a 65 AMP internal type, but apparently my old Alt. was externally regulated. Apparently the combination of having two regulators caused a charge to travel back to the ignition switch which kept the car on once the ignition was turned off. We were always having to remove the coli wire to kill the motor. Now the charging light is off and the motor turns off as soon as the key is turned. Sometimes it's best to just leave it up to a professional!

• Picking the car up on Friday, so it should be up here in Washington next week.

[Colbino]

Test fitting the wats.

test_fitting.jpg (332.74 KiB) Viewed 5400 times

[Colbino]

She's here!

transporter.jpg (471.75 KiB) Viewed 5400 times

What a crappy experience it was getting to this point though. I don't want to go as far as to say all transporters are morons with a truck, as the second company dispatched wasn't bad. I did get to watch the driver open my car door into the side of his trailer though. Thankfully the service I used involved a middle man whom was able to properly deal with the animals that were originally scheduled to pickup my car. Glad that's over with!

No, the R8 is NOT mine.

510_R8.jpg (405.54 KiB) Viewed 5400 times

[Colbino]

I almost forgot...I was able to drive the girl for the *first time last week. What a blast! She needs tweaking and fine tuning of course, but damn it was fun. The forged pistons and other worn tolerances make her mechanically loud, during idle, but under throttle she sounds great.
*Drove her once about 8 years ago before the restoration began.

I will need to go over the entire car and check the tightness of all the bolts and screws since it's been years since a lot of them were 'snugged' down and she does shake a bit.

Also found some new dents, scratches and the hood skin separating from the ribs, along with other crap that happened while under the care of others. It was just too hard to see these while she was dirty!

[indy510]

congrats on the first drive!!! ... now the fun can begin (after you tighten all the bolts) ..

[Colbino]

congrats on the first drive!!! ... now the fun can begin (after you tighten all the bolts) ..

Thanks, Indy! Luckily these are tiny ass cars so it only took a couple hours.

Next up...quarter window re-assembly and install. Any tips of 'shaving/notching' the seal to accommodate for the latch and frame brackets?

I've tried an exact-o knife and even sanding them down with a wheel. You laugh at the wheel, but it worked well at first. After awhile the seal gets too flimsy and you can only get part of the way through before it gets sketchy and is time to stop. I'm sure there's abetter way. I'm going to try and slightly stretch and invert the seal onto a piece of wood and then slice the portion down like a loaf of bread. Then I can come back and under cut each slice. There isn't a lot of room for error and it's easy to go too far through the bottom of the channel which would leave the glass resting on part of the bracket that connects the end of the frame to the rest of it.

[Colbino]

Next up...quarter window re-assembly and install. Any tips of 'shaving/notching' the seal to accommodate for the latch and frame brackets?

I ended up procuring one of Baz's newly made inner quarter window seals so I won't have to deal with notching and mitering the socal seals anymore. I'll post pictures once they arrive!

[bertvorgon]

Re the clutch issue, if you have not addressed it.

I had the same problem, turned out the heads of the flywheel bolts just plain are too tall. We machined a bit off them, problem solved.

[SteveEdmonton]

Curious about this clutch problem. I take it there's no discernible noise when this interference is taking place?

Like a lot of us, I've got the same setup, fairly recently installed (roadster PP and 200mm disk) so am wondering if there are "early warning" signs-- besides taking out the transmission to do a visual check.