The u-joint on my steering shaft is on it's way out (for the last 20 years) and I found a few spares. Notice the length and joint difference? Can you run either lengths of these?
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Has anyone figured out a replacement u-joint?
I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find a direct replacement.
It would require fabrication but these guys sell some decent looking u-joints:
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0005
I was able to wire power to my ECU and after 5 days of trying to figure out a communication issue my laptop was finally able to upload new files.
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While that was going on I had bled the brake system and found a leak in the rear fitting of the master cylinder. I never did find a new replacement fitting so I just bought a new master. I'll keep it on the shelf for back up parts.
Right before I was going to install it I noticed a giant pool of brake fluid at the left rear tire. I took off the drum and found that the brake cylinder decided to let loose. I took it apart and found corrosion/ rust so I bought (2) new ones and was going to replace both rears at the same time (the other cylinder also showed some very slight signs of corrosion, although not as bad).
What was as strange is that I ordered 2 of the same Beck Arnley part numbers, but they showed up in two different style of boxes (one was just a small plain white box, the other was large and blue and white). When I took them out of their boxes I noticed one cylinder was green-ish looking and stamped Tokico (looked OEM), the other one was silver with no markings. I didn't think much of it (they look exactly the same shape) and installed both, as well as the new master. We bled the system and as I was doing some last checks I noticed a pool of fluid collecting below the silver cylinder. I check the fitting and everything was tight, but it was still leaking out of the center of the fitting. Long story short, it took me a few re-installations to find out the flare on the cylinder was at a different angle (it looked too wide). I fished out the original cylinder out of the trash and installed it without any leaking problems.
My non-car-guy buddy was helping me with the bleeding process and I don't think he really knew how the pedal should correctly feel because after we bleed the entire system (no bubbles anywhere) I put my foot on the brake and it almost hit the floor. The rear pads were adjusted property. The master cylinder and each corner of the car do not produce any bubbles when bleeding them.
This is the way we were bleeding everything:
1. Apply brake pressure
2. Open bleed screw while pedal falls.
3. Hold pedal down and tighten bleed screw
4. Release deal and repeat
A friend is suggest using a vacuum bleeder and lightly tap on the cylinders/ junction blocks with a hammer to dislodge air bubbles.
On first press the pedal will now go to the floor and then 2nd and 3rd press it gets more firm, but never feels quite right even after the 10th or so pump.
I'm guessing my firmed is correct and there is air in the system somewhere?
Any suggestions on the easiest way to fix this?