ace028's 72 2 door

[ace028]

Took some time today to install my '68 grill, this is my fav grill. 

[loungin112]

Looking great!

I've gone back and forth with the Dapper lights, due to the modern look they provide. What's not debatable though is how the modern lights outshine the vintage lights. (See what I did there?)

I updated all bulbs and lighting sources to LED at this point, except for my fog lights and they are the only ones draw on my system when I flick them on. They will be up next, but I couldn't find an adequate LED replacement that maintained a vintage look that I could put yellow film over.

[ace028]

Looking great!

I've gone back and forth with the Dapper lights, due to the modern look they provide. What's not debatable though is how the modern lights outshine the vintage lights. (See what I did there?)

I updated all bulbs and lighting sources to LED at this point, except for my fog lights and they are the only ones draw on my system when I flick them on. They will be up next, but I couldn't find an adequate LED replacement that maintained a vintage look that I could put yellow film over.

Which fogs are you running? the safari in grill ones? Morimoto has some nice options for moden cars, not sure if they have universal type one, but I think the retrofit resource website offers the yellow film for covering lights.

[loungin112]

Looking great!

I've gone back and forth with the Dapper lights, due to the modern look they provide. What's not debatable though is how the modern lights outshine the vintage lights. (See what I did there?)

I updated all bulbs and lighting sources to LED at this point, except for my fog lights and they are the only ones draw on my system when I flick them on. They will be up next, but I couldn't find an adequate LED replacement that maintained a vintage look that I could put yellow film over.

Which fogs are you running? the safari in grill ones? Morimoto has some nice options for moden cars, not sure if they have universal type one, but I think the retrofit resource website offers the yellow film for covering lights.

I updated the outside lights to LED that are operated with the stock High/Low functionality. Added the internal lights that are stock replacements and applied yellow film, wiring them to an aux switch opposite the cigarette lighter on an extra circuit (Breaker > Circuit Relay > Fogs Relay > Blade Fuse)

[ace028]

Well I finally ordered the engine and it arrived while I was deployed so my friend put it in the garage for me. Today I unpacked it and put it on roller dollies for now.







Next is to find a turbo manifold that will let the turbo clear the steering box. Any suggestions?

Can't wait to get into it.

[Cmac]

I’m not sure on what is available for your manifold options anymore but I will say replace your oil pan. When these motors ship the oil pans get dented slowing the flow of oil into the pick up tube. I’d hate to see all this work get messed up.

[ace028]

Thanks man, I was planing on the tomei oil pan as I want to avoid cast pans in case I scrape on something.

I am not sure about the cx racing manifold. I might look into that one

[ace028]

I have begun the mock up of the engine. I installed it from underneath by rolling it under the car and then lifting it up into position. Was actually pretty easy.

a quick top view before it goes in, setting my tomei cover on for fun



Side view before getting ready to put the engine in.



putting the reversed crossmember on the engine with the OEM 510 mounts.



And the engine is in. I need to trim the tunnel so I can get the trans mount bushing on as the trans is hitting. I have the Datsport cover. That will be this weekend likely

Untitled

The mounts only worked out using these bottom holes as shown below.

drivers side


passenger side (a bit hard to see but same lower holes as drivers side)



The hood seems to close ok, but the hood prop bracket is pretty close. I think the engine can come down about 10mm as it has quite a bit of clearance from the crossmember.

I see a lot of people had used truck mounts, are they shorter?

I will probably send the engine brackets to MadDat to be modified for a little bit better fit.

Otherwise I am very happy with seeing the engine in there. I know I have a lot of little things to buy for this now, to include turbo manifold options. I don't want to use the CX as I keep reading its trash.

For rad and intercooler I am going to copy icehouse on his builds. Looks like a few modifications to the Koyo rad and the intercooler. The intercooler says it supports up to 500hp so that's about 200hp over my eventual goal of 300 but at this point I will be happy with whatever this engine puts out stock.






Now its time to trim my trans tunnel and the front core support and begin to mock these things up.

[icehouse]

I used the same rad and IC on my setup. Rad build!! I like the white line grille and 68 the best.

[ace028]

@icehouse thanks, I was researching and didn't want to spend thousands on rad and IC setup, so I saw your build and thought that was way better and easier to replace if I ever damage it.

Speaking of damage. The cam sensor cover thing had a part missing and was a bit gross inside.



Removed the broken cover and found this nice clear one for a reasonable price. Cleaned up all the corrosion and reassembled.



Next I turned my attention to the exhaust studs, I knew after removing the manifold that I would need to replace them as some of the nuts were stuck to the studs. I ordered up a set that had copper coated nuts for again a reasonable price. They even have the hex tips for easy installation




these are going into the trash



Nice new ones



Holes thread chased and new studs put in for now. I will clean the surface later.



Next I went about enlarging the trans tunnel hole to fit the 6 speed. (I will clean the surface rust later and treat it, probably means I need to hurry up and finish this car so I can have it painted)



Little trim





Set my Datsport cover over to see how it looks. I think I will actually cut much larger and use rivnuts to hold the Datsport cover on for easy removal of the shifter for later in its life. I will maybe make a flange so it sits nicely after a bit of body work. I still need to enlarge parts of the tunnel for clearance.



Here I test fit the radiator. I used these m6 isolators that are 10mm thick. They keep the rad tight up against the core support with a few mm gap. I will prob use rivnuts in the support to mount the isolators to instead of nuts on the back side. I think it will be cleaner and easier to service later.








The rad looks good in there. I need to order some more m6 bolts to hold the other corners of the rad as it's only mocked up with two bolts.

Next I decided to remove my cheap knock off door locks and use some NOS 240Z ones I found and took them apart to rekey so all my locks now match with OEM locks and keys. I can now use my fancy kill switch key too

Slowly sorting through the lock wafers to find the correct ones to fit. There are 6 in each lock.



Rekeyed and ready to be put back together. Don't mind the pink grease. It's my RC car grease, but it works great to rebuild these.



All installed for now.




I am really liking how it's all coming together finally. Still a lot to do, but the vision is coming full circle.

[Stu]

Looking great.

[bertvorgon]

I would strongly recommend that you seal up around the radiator! You will decrease the efficiency of that nice rad by air spilling by it, those are very big gaps and you would be surprised at how air takes the path of least resistance.

[ace028]

I would strongly recommend that you seal up around the radiator! You will decrease the efficiency of that nice rad by air spilling by it, those are very big gaps and you would be surprised at how air takes the path of least resistance.

Yes sir, planning on it. It’s as close to the core support as possible currently without rubbing at the top. Can’t wait to get some fans installed and get the car running. Then it’s all apart for final welding of any unused holes and paint.

[ace028]

Well not a huge amount of progress, but progress nonetheless.

For Black Friday I picked up an Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC welder for when I mod my radiator, intercooler, and eventually make the charge pipes and exhaust. I started with an aluminum practice kit, definitely need more practice and learning on all the different settings and tungsten sizes and filler. I did this with 3/32 tungsten and filler. I think the welder was set too hot even though it was in the recommended range, I likely need to work on my pedal control.





Then I filed the flat surfaces only and it don't look half bad.



Next I traced the Datsport tunnel cover and trimmed out around it adding a 15mm space for a flange. Here I plan to use riv nuts to secure the cover for future trans removal. Likely seal with some kind of sealer. I still need to widen the tunnel a bit to clear the sensor on the side so I can put the rubber mount that Mario from TSR supplied with the trans crossmember I purchased from him. Seems like the rubber mount he gave me is a bit tall. Currently it's sitting on the member with only a thin block of wood until I widen the tunnel. Looks a bit scary but I think it was needed so I didn't install the tunnel cover and have a ledge under there from the only tunnel for any kind of debris to collect in.



The cover fits great, I will flange the old tunnel to make a recess for the new one and body work it so it all fits snugly together.



I had also received the engine brackets back from MadDat where they modified them to fit the OEM 510 mounts. The engine fits so much better now. I am wondering if I should use their trans mount instead of the TSR one. Any thoughts?



Here it is next to its new roommate, a BMW M240i (because I love AWD). Its something fun until I eventually get the 510 running. I am hoping to push hard to make good progress this year.

[Stu]

Nice progress. After seeing your transmission cover, I wish I would have made mine removeable.