PoorMtnKids 70 2DR

[PoorMtnKid]

This is the pump I went with for the replacement. It clearly states that it can be used for "inline" applications. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance- ... oreDetails

Sleepy, the pump you linked shows it only goes to 6 PSI. Dont fuel injected applications need 45+ PSI?

[Sleepys-14]

Yes, but high pressure inline pumps can't be used as a lift pump. By design, they just don't work as a lift pump. You need a low pressure lift pump to pull the fuel out of the tank and supply the high pressure pump.

[Sleepys-14]

Sorry, i should say, more high pressure inline pumps can't be used as a lift pump

[PoorMtnKid]

So if I have the pick up mounted in the sump this pump I order should not have any problems. I think that is the cheaper route to go.

[Sleepys-14]

Basically, yes. If you have the fuel feed coming out from the bottom of the sump, you should have no issues just running a high pressure pump. If you have the fuel feed coming from the top of the tank (with a pickup tube going down to the sump), then you will need some sort of lift pump.

[PoorMtnKid]

Track day pics, this is how my day started with the wifes first time on the track....what a dud lol, intercooler piping blew off! Had to go and get that fixed for run 2








My friends miata




Overall had a good day, car still gets hot after 15 min of pure mash'n! I need to figure out why that is. I think it could be from running too lean.

[Bike papa]

PMK,
The car looks good on the track. Nice stance, just the right amount of low. Color looks great.
I like the tow ring. Looks way nicer than the EBay stuff Was that custom made?

BP

[PoorMtnKid]

PMK,
The car looks good on the track. Nice stance, just the right amount of low. Color looks great.
I like the tow ring. Looks way nicer than the EBay stuff Was that custom made?

BP

Yeah the tow hook was custom made by some guy named Joel with access to some pretty cool tools most wish we had!

[StrutlessWonder]

Looks great on track--congrats!

"Overall had a good day, car still gets hot after 15 min of pure mash'n! I need to figure out why that is. I think it could be from running too lean."

Find someone with a wideband to help you look into this. You certainly don't want to hurt your new baby!

And double or triple check all the other things that could be causing it to run hot: Air pockets in the cooling system, not fully filled cooling system, faulty thermostat, water pump cavitation, inadequate fan (maybe one big fan instead of one med and two little) or rad size (I know you have a big rad, but no shrouding, possible airflow issues, sealing issues), if elect fans, maybe coming on too late due to wrong sensor temp range, or even inaccurate temp gauge or sender unit (IR pyrometers are your friend). But once at full speed, the fans aren't supposed to be needed for much.

[bertvorgon]

I'm with Kurt, also, you have the huge inter-cooler blocking the rad. Make sure that you have shrouded the radiator in and, maybe make an external shroud between the rad support and the grill, shrouding the inter-cooler, again making sure the air HAS to go through both the inter-cooler and rad. At higher speeds, that air is going to stall somewhat in front of that inter-cooler, and spill off to the sides.

[PoorMtnKid]

Thanks strutless. I have a wideband just need to find a place to mount the gauge. I started building a center console that will hold them eventually, but never finished it........ I should get on that. What would the number be on the Wideband if I am running to lean?

I already had the issue of the water pump cavitation. I upgraded the pulley to one that is 6% larger. Before that I was only getting like 3 laps in before getting too hot. I tested my gauge reading by using a pot of boiling water and compared it to a laser temp gauge I used for my lizards terrarium. It did read a difference of 15 degrees hotter on the gauge. Just not sure how accurate that laser temp gauge actually is.

Bert, do you think that aluminum tape used to seal air ducting could help seal off both between the radiator and inter-cooler and in front of the inter-cooler to the radiator support?

[StrutlessWonder]

Aluminum tape will certainly work to plug the leaks so the air has to flow through the radiator.
Anywhere air can escape to avoid the radiator, it will.

Ready to do some reading?
The following links talks about scientifiaclly sorting out a Sunbeam Tiger's cooling issues:
http://teae.org/cooling-the-tiger/
and the old electric fan FAQ from 2002:
http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0008.html

Tuning:
Use the fuel you usually use, make sure timing is correct, timing advance works, plugs/gaps are correct, there are no vacuum leaks, etc.
I'd install the Wide Band and have a friend record the readings with the gauge in his lap while you drive. Check readings at idle, part (50% throttle), and full (WOT).

This is a gross simplification, and I'm sure other will chime in to correct me, but:
Idle should be around stoich at 14.7-15+ (some even tolerate 15-17 at idle, which is lean, but can be ok at idle).
Cruising along with just a little steady throttle can run 15-16
Part throttle should be 14-15, or if you plan to run big turbo, big boost, maybe even as rich as 13-13.5 at 50% throttle and 0 on the boost gauge.
WOT should be 11.5-12.5ish (ie RICH) to prevent blowing a hole thru your pistons w/ full boost. Depends on your turbo setup, octane, etc.

[bertvorgon]

Again, as Kurt said, anything you can do to wall up the entrance to the inter-cooler/radiator opening, is a good thing. I know I gave you my link to my shroud project, so you have an idea of what is required. As long as the wind cannot move the tape.... it will all help.

For what it is worth, I run 11's for A/F under full boost, sustained conditions, and that is with 100 octane fuel.

I also run a very cold spark plug for combat type driving, as that also helps with eliminating anything that can start pre-ignition/detonation. In my case I run an NGK BP9ES for racing. My "normal plug would either be a 7 if I'm just going to be in a lot of traffic, or, an 8 for the more open road situations.

Have you checked the plug coloration? You should look closely at the insulator also, see if there are any small, shiny balls on there, use a magnifying glass.

I also monitor my exhaust temp, as a Guideline too, wanting to see around 1,300 - 1,400 and no more on the straight stretches.

Just a thought too, depending on your turbo, where are you in terms of compressor efficiency? While it may be good for the stop light Grand Prix, it may be possible that at the higher flows, it is not very efficient, thus really heating the air. At that point even the inter-cooler would have trouble getting rid of excess BTU's. A turbo car in so many ways is about managing heat, from the oil, the water, the ignition timing, and of course the compressor heating the air. Before I changed up my compressor, I saw 350+ F. going into my motor, that is a LOT of heat.

[PoorMtnKid]

Just a thought too, depending on your turbo, where are you in terms of compressor efficiency?

I'm running the stock T25. Which from my research I know spools up really fast but does not hold boost for the full RPM range of the SR20. The guy who tuned my car is pretty much set on his own page and worried about making numbers. I told him I only wanted it tuned at 12-13 lbs of boost. In the end he tuned it when I was out of town and maxed the turbo out at 15lbs just to get the numbers, which I really did not even care about.

I really don't know what you mean by compressor efficiency, but I do think I'm at the max for the turbo with the way this guy tuned it. I could say that it is probably over worked like you are saying and just so damn hot that the intercooler is trying its best but cant keep up. Would lowering the boost down help keep the turbo cooler? Here is the stock T25 specs.

S13 Red-Top T25:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm 0.80 A/R BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 240 - 250 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Journal Bearing

[PoorMtnKid]

Just a thought too, depending on your turbo, where are you in terms of compressor efficiency?

I'm running the stock T25. Which from my research I know spools up really fast but does not hold boost for the full RPM range of the SR20. The guy who tuned my car is pretty much set on his own page and worried about making numbers. I told him I only wanted it tuned at 12-13 lbs of boost. In the end he tuned it when I was out of town and maxed the turbo out at 15lbs just to get the numbers, which I really did not even care about.

I really don't know what you mean by compressor efficiency, but I do think I'm at the max for the turbo with the way this guy tuned it. I could say that it is probably over worked like you are saying and just so damn hot that the intercooler is trying its best but cant keep up. Would lowering the boost down help keep the turbo cooler? Here is the stock T25 specs.

S13 Red-Top T25:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm 0.80 A/R BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 240 - 250 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Journal Bearing