510Freak wrote:I have to ask Byron,
Why is the floor dry? is it because this is long after the spray?
you are working in a cross flow type of spray environment, the floor will create issues
While I was painting, I had no fan or heater going. No fan because it causes more problems than it cures, and no heater because it's gas, and paint has lots of flammable solvents - you get where I'm going… Boom! . Kinda makes a mess of the car. I got the shop up to 25 degrees - Shawn and I was sweating in there just before the paint began. It's a 2X6 fully insulated building, so it kept the heat well, even though it was only 3 degrees outside.
The floor was not wet. This too has cause issues for me in the past. I agree that a wet floor traps the dust, but I think our dust source was the plastic walls and electricity.
Plastic is a magnet Byron.
Static magnet at that.
I like the look of Shawns car!
You guys did a good job, kudos to all ..
It looks like your old car will be up for sale soon, this is the replacement.
I'd like to keep the motor/carb combo that's now it it. It runs great, it's one of the few fully functioning automatic choke carbs that I've ever touched, fast cold idle down to smooth low emissions warm running. It's a great driver, but it's rusty. This'll happen later this winter I think.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
It looks like your old car will be up for sale soon, this is the replacement.
I'd like to keep the motor/carb combo that's now it it. It runs great, it's one of the few fully functioning automatic choke carbs that I've ever touched, fast cold idle down to smooth low emissions warm running. It's a great driver, but it's rusty. This'll happen later this winter I think.
Byron
Ole blue is a typical rusty BC 510
She is a great beater driver tho!
I wa on the look for a driver again,but found one too good to be a BC driver, dammit
So it sits and waits
Well I’ve been puttin’ in some time on Shawn’s car over my Christmas break – I had this whole week off so I’ve been into the car for a few days strait.
So, there have been some mishaps – in my absence. Family is great, but also a pain in the ass as well. I love ‘em all, but sometimes... Accidents happen I guess, but this is getting a bit nuts, and all of us were involved or had a hand in it.
Before I painted the outside of the car, I stood on the pass door jam. My shoes were a bit tacky from the paint residue on the floor, and I’d picked up some small rocks on the soles. When I was blocking out the roof in the primer stage, I stood on the pass side door jam and scratched the hell of out it – Damn! So I thought I’d just touch it up with a little paint brush later and buff it out. Then the day after the car was painted, Shawn went out to clean up and the hood brace bracket got dropped, chipped in three spots to bare metal. My father came home two days later, and managed to drop the cowl vent on its end, also bending it and of course taking off the paint – Damn again! So the day after Christmas dad’s out working on his car and somehow a 1X3X8’ falls on the trunk, making a nice dent on the training edge right beside the lock hole – Bloody hell!
The day before yesterday I tried to put the damaged spots out of my head and started assembling the doors with new rubber, window channel felt and seals. But every time I walked past one of these parts, I just had to grit my teeth. At the end of the day my jaw hurt.
So, today was touch up day. Pushed out the dent in the trunk, thankfully I had access to the dent through one of the holes underneath. Since I was obviously spraying this repair, I also bent the cowl vent back, did some filling on the edge. Dad scuffed down the pass side door jamb at the bottom and the rest of the trunk lids fresh paint, and then had to go. It’s better to let one guy do the final prep anyways, nothing gets missed this way. So I masked the car, wiped and tacked her down and heated up the garage (its a few degrees below freezing again out there today!) I mixed up the paint around 4pm, blew out the pilot light on the gas furnace, and started to spray. The paint on that trunk lid is now 8 coats thick – 4 more today. So with the hood prop bracket, cowl vent, door jamb and trunk lid fixed up and painted, tomorrow I can get back to assembly.
The PPG paint takes about 45 minutes to tack out, so you have to keep it dust free (as possible) for this period of time. So I had to wait after the 4th coat before turning on the heater. The fan moves some serious air, and consequently dust. While waiting for the paint to tack, I busied myself by cutting out the wheel arches and painting over my overspray in the wheel wells. I hate that overspray look, it just looks unprofessional. I like how Tyson taped his car to the floor – I think I’ll keep this in mind for the next job. After completing the wheel wells, I still has some time, and the paint hadn’t fully tacked, so I started masking the front valance panel off, and taping up the rad, headlight and various holes in the rad support and blackened out behind the grill. On a light coloured car, I just think this looks better after assembly, it highlights the front bumper and grill (both of which I have to locate decent pieces for this car…). So here are some photos from the day.
Byron
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
Freshly re-painted trunk lid, front now blacked out behind the grill and wheel well overspray covered up and the freshly painted parts SAFELY stored back in the trunk BEFORE I left tonight.
Byron
Attachments
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
man i can't wait to get butters rollin this new year. and to see all the fresh new 510s out at the shows.
Byron, what a nice looking car keep up the good work.
Shawn and I spent the day assembling various trim bits, but called it early at 4pm as it is New Years Eve, and the wives likely want us home.
I managed to get both drivers side doors assembled with new rubber bits in the window channel, both inner and outer squeegees, and the door gasket. Figuring out how to change the outer squeegee on the chrome door trim was a bit of a challenge as I've not done this before. I ground off the staples, and separated the old rubber and steel back from the stainless trim, then glued the new rubber to the trim. Shawn then started the other three. Shawn also disassembled the front signal lights and rear tail lights. We scavenged my pile 'O' parts to pick out good housings, good lenses, good gaskets and chrome trim for the tail lights. The front signal lights were pretty good, even the gaskets were usable. Shawn also scrubbed up the door sill plates; we're not sure yet if these should get polished or left as is.
I'm still waiting for the headliner which is holding up the game a bit. I wanted to install the dash, but I'd first like to get the front glass in. However before this can all happen, the headliner needs to be in place. So we'll work on other bits. I'll likely be out there tomorrow working on the pass side doors, and then start on the motor/trans and front end pieces. I think I'll slide the drive train under the car complete on this car. I've never done this before, but it'll likely be easier on the paint. Have to see where the weekend takes us. Still have a few days left before I have to go back to work.
Below is the procedure I used to get change the outer window squeegees that Datsport has supplied, it was easier then I had anticipated. However I do hope that the weather-strip glue was the right product to bond these two parts – have to wait and see.
Byron
Attachments
Here's Shawn grinding the 2nd and 3rd trim staples off.
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Grind the staples back right into the steel strip, it'll make your life easier to pull the two components apart.
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Mark the location of the old squeegee edges; you'll need to trim the new ones to fit.
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
Using a thin wide knife, it is pretty easy to separate the steel trim and old rubber from the stainless door piece if you've ground the stapes completely flush.
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Shawn is seen here pulling off the old rubber and metal strip that was stapled to the stainless door trim
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Here's the new rubber glued and clamped to the door trim.
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
The first one took me 45 minutes. Once we had a procedure the correct weapons at hand, Shawn took 20 minutes to do the other three.
Hopefully this helps others who want to tackle this part of their project and get rid of that old weathered dry rotted rubber on your car.
Byron
Attachments
Installed on the rear door.
DSC01587 (Small).JPG (54.09 KiB) Viewed 3106 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
You know, the next one I do won't have the sill plates, they look really clean without them, just weld up the screw holes and smooth them out. Looks killer....nice work fellas!!
. Kinda makes a mess of the car. I got the shop up to 25 degrees - Shawn and I was sweating in there just before the paint began. It's a 2X6 fully insulated building, so it kept the heat well, even though it was only 3 degrees outside.
