Jordan's '72 2 door KA project

[kayakdude07]

Will the 240 bar work with an L motor?

I'm pretty sure it would... there's nothing on an L motor that it would interfere with because the L series has a rearish sump.

[kayakdude07]

So I've been doing some stuff on and around the car lately...
The ka is out of the poor 240sx...


My dad and I have started fixing the last few holes in the floor.


The rear end is out and getting fixed up. I have an R160 3.9 LSD coming this weekend:D and I'm looking at rear disc options- i still need an E-brake though because of provincial inspection

open diff

no diff


to get out the stub axles i just have to undo the bolt in the center and they will slide out?


While the rear end is out i was looking at springs... apparently i have cut (stock methinks) springs.
I read that the stock 510 rear springs were 299mm/ 11.8 inches, the cut ones i have are ~10.5 inches and i have a pair of yellow springs with 1 more coil than the cut spring.
Cut spring on the left, my ??? yellow spring is on the right.

bad picture but the spring is 10.5 inches- any idea what spring this is or maybe a ballpark on spring rate?


I've read all the information on here about the ka swap and what you can get rid of emissions related and i''m having a hard time getting the pieces you're supposed to remove to correspond with all the random vacuum hoses and such on the ka.
I've removed the EGR so that the big tube for it that goes across the back of the engine can be removed and the engine will have that space to clear the firewall. I also fabbed up a plate to block off where the EGR goes into the intake manifold.
I found some info on ka-t http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.ph ... ns&start=0 about removing some emissions parts.
I've been going off of the guide here on the ka swap http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.ph ... lit=ka24de and plan on keeping the pcv and removing all of the stuff that the guide there says to remove.
I was wondering if you ka 510 guys have removed this whole chunk of hard line from the back.. what did you guys do with the electrical connections for the scv relay and the egr switch?

The swirl control valve i have removed. should i take the manifold apart and remove the flaps inside or can i just wire the shaft one way or the other?
all these random vacuum lines that are left just plug em up good? the vapor canister isn't used in the typical swap so just plug up the lines?

thanks guys.

[Caithness]

The whole mess at the back there can sometimes be a bitch to keep what with the firewall clearances.

I'd suggest removing as much as you can...there's vacuum removal guides scattered throughout the web.

I left all mine intact, but the guides show you how to remove basically all of it. Just a heads up though, the butterfly valve at the back there controls valves in each of the intake manifold plenums. If you remove the butterfly valve, you'll have to rig something up to keep all those valves open. Otherwise you'll find yourself with mad power loss issues.

The other option is the take the whole manifold off and remove each valve and the rod that connects them all.

[fo0manchu]

Remove all those vacuum lines you see in the back. Take them all out. I have everything out including the egr.
You can remove the butterfly's but you will have to use something to seal off the holes. If you find an intake manifold off of a newer 240sx (s14 model), those did not come with the butterfly's so you can swap the intake right in.

[okayfine]

Actually, what you DON'T want to do is just remove stuff that people tell you to remove. This is your car and you've got to live with the consequences of your actions. Take the time to read through the KA FSM and figure out what each component does, how and why it functions, then decide if YOU want to remove that.

We had a fellow here a few weeks ago who was looking at removing nearly all of the accessory controls for his KA including things like the IACV (and the PCV!). Boggles my mind why they'd bother installing an EFI engine, then cutting its balls off.

This isn't your only shot at an EFI 510, but once it is in you won't want to have to add back something once you discover your KA runs like crap or doesn't operate as you expected. Educate yourself. Yes, it's more work, but the payoff is manyfold.

[fo0manchu]

You should read and find out what those things are and get to know your engine. But I guarantee that you will be removing all those emission vacuum lines you see in the back there. This has been done many times over. I'm assuming, of course, that you will be keeping all the pcv and iacv stuff.

I also assumed that you know the functions of your motor already. If you don't, my bad.

[kayakdude07]

Thanks for the input.
I plan on only taking out the EGR and the butterfly valve (SCV)- those are the main space hogs near the back of the engine.

If you find an intake manifold off of a newer 240sx (s14 model), those did not come with the butterfly's so you can swap the intake right in.

- I have an S14 KA but I just plan on wiring the butterfly open; i don't want to mess with manifold gaskets etc.

So Christmas has come and gone and Santy Claws got me a rubber kit for the doors and windows and trunk which is very sweet.
I also got the rear X-member and control arms sandblasted. Once I get the cross member slotted and all that stuff painted it is reassembly time
I'll get some pictures up later.

[okayfine]

Just pull the swirl valves and JBWeld the exterior holes.

[kayakdude07]

So things have still been happening on the dime.
Over the Christmas break I got the rear crossmember and control arms as well as bumpers sandblasted and primed. Them and a ton of other parts are waiting for my dad to get a paint gun....



I also spent some time picking through my 240sx. It has power locks as well as an alarm with keyless entry. I spent some time pulling that all out and getting it into the 510. The cool thing about the 240sx power locks is that the drivers side servo has a trigger that tells the passenger side to copy what it does. This eliminates any tacky buttons or switches. In addition to the power locks I also installed the alarm with keyless entry, we'll see how much of the alarm I really use because all I really wanted was the keyless part. Here are a few pictures.
The bench test

This shows the welded addition to the bar, the lock knob connecting rod was relocated to the further hole from the pivot point so the servo won't have to make such a large throw. Servo on left, lock knob on right.

Half mounted

Fully mounted

Now with the keyless actuator, everything is close together down low so it can tuck in behind the door latch bar and be clear of the window.

Every shop needs some music; I just got this stuff and thought it was pretty cool.

The last hole in the car has also been fixed


I am picking through the 240sx some more- I still need the fuel sending unit and the rear discs- mainly because they are already mine and they have my provincially mandatory parking brake built in. And of course because discs>drums.


My shaved rear end creates many concerns: a bumper, license plate and license plate light to be there of which there are none at the moment. I found a picture online of what I hope to do. It would involve some annoying work to refit the brackets but it is necessary. Tabs under the bumper or mounts on the rear valence would hold the license plate along with a license plate light hidden inside the bumper. Just some thoughts...


I'll keep you updated.

[jim.nos]

provincially mandatory parking brake

Pshh, I use a 2x4.

Also, if you want something drawn for hydrojetting, send me a sketch and I'll turn it into something real for you. I also could give you a bonus pair of brackets I have which may or may not fit the callipers you have and save trouble all together.

[m33pm33p]

Funny I just patched the exact same hole in my car, weird. Progress is looking good, but could you help me with what else your car needs to pass provincial inspection. Maybe have a link to a page that explains in detail?

I'll have your parts car ready by the weekend:)

[joker72z]

You can also find license plate light bolts at KMS for cheap. They are little led lights in the bolt heads and are legal in BC...

Chris

[kayakdude07]

Oh thanks Jimbo. Yeah I'd like to see those brackets and one of your broken control arms for a mock-up. If i need something jet cut you'd be the first to know.

could you help me with what else your car needs to pass provincial inspection. Maybe have a link to a page that explains in detail?

I'll have your parts car ready by the weekend:)

yes. I'll dig it up for you- it sure was a pain to find. Its a pdf so I'll email it to you or post it on here.
awesome. I am excited

[kayakdude07]

You can also find license plate light bolts at KMS for cheap. They are little led lights in the bolt heads and are legal in BC...

Chris

Cool, thanks Chris. That sounds like a pretty good option.

[okayfine]

the rear discs- mainly because they are already mine and they have my provincially
mandatory parking brake built in.

When I used the 240SX calipers I had to eventually mount them at the bottom of the and swap the calipers left for right to allow use of the parking brake function. The bottom mount was to allow access for the cables, I couldn't work out a way to route them safely at ride height.

And of course because discs>drums.

Blasphemy.

My shaved rear end creates many concerns: a bumper, license plate and license plate light

They make license plate bolt LED lights that many people use when they shave the OE lights. Cheap and simple and small.