Halfway home and stuck won't run! IT LIVES!

[goatee]

Thanks Jason. yep picking up a lower thermostat today and probably drilling it. Once the heat is down a bit I can drive it more often and work on the nagging little things.

[Byron510]

The 620 PU wiper motors are a direct replacement (may have to swap mounts). I think these motors sit opposite from the PL510 units, but the wiring is the same on the plug...
It possible that you have a Mazda wiper motor. There is a thread on the site somewhere explaining this, and the wiring changes needed. I know I've seen it somewhere.

Good to hear you finally get a chance to enjoy the car. We're glad you didn't throw in the towel, a lesser person sure would have
Byron

[goatee]

Good to hear you finally get a chance to enjoy the car. We're glad you didn't throw in the towel, a lesser person sure would have

I take that as a huge compliment thanks! I definitely don't have the modifying skills a lot of the people on here have but it will be a lot of fun to fix it up some.

Oh ps I read the mazda post before too, I'll go find it.

[goatee]

Quick update 180 thermostat plus 1/8 hole plus rabbit radiator = 165-170 degrees average on over 5 trips to town plus one night of running around trying some 0-60 etc.

Tonight I popped the valve cover off because I was going to try and do the cold valve lash adjustment but I have the wrong size feeler gauge (long story). I decided to double check the head bolts, all were still set right, only one even budged a little so I'm hoping we are done in that area. However I mentioned in a post or two or maybe some PMs that my engine was just sounding a little grindy or sandy. I felt my timing chain and it's real loose. When I had the timing cover off the tensioner was pretty tight, meaning it didn't easily push out of it's holder, I wondered about this but not knowing better figured it was probably supposed to be that way. I'm guessing this is why when I replaced the head the first time and didn't push the wooden block down that far it didn't pop out. The second time it was looser for whatever reason and I learned a lesson in oil pan gasket installation. (sucks).
Any possibility I could just reach down to the tensioner and sort of pop it loose with a long screw driver or something? If I DO get it to pop out and make the chain tight is it liable to stay that way you think? (out).

Been having a blast driving it around town and getting weird looks from farmers etc. People like to ask what kind of car it is or tell me a story of their crazy brother in law that had a datsun something or other.

[goatee]

Ok it's only the slack side that is well, slack but how slack is slack? I can't pull it up a tooth or anything crazy like that. The other side is good and tight and looks like the tensioner is out fine.

[defdes]

"Slack" is fine. As long as there is no chain slap, you should be good.

[hang_510]

rotate the crank backwards slighty to see how much slack there is. should be some.
youll know for sure if the tensioner is doing its job if most of the slack goes away.

[with the cover off]
there is (at least on my new guides) 2 holes for the lower tension side bolt and the upper can also be adjusted for tension.

[goatee]

[with the cover off]

Well hopefully I'm not going there any time soon! lol

[goatee]

This has got to be too loose doesn't it? I'm hearing a real random ticking at idle. No ticking when up a few rpms.

[goatee]

Link only seems to work sometimes, here's a direct one, hope it works for you.
http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r208 ... EO_001.flv

[defdes]

That would be the cause of chain slap, that looks too loose.

[datzenmike]

Rotate the engine forward or clockwise and that will go away. The engine runs by pulling down on the chain on that side, also known as the tension side, against the resistance of the cam and valve springs. There will never be slack on that side when running. All stretch or slack will collect on the ... slack (passenger)side, where the tensioner pushes out to 'take it up'.

Properly set, the tension side vertical chain guide should be up against the tight chain but not pushing against it. On the slack side, the tensioner should be pushed back into it's bore and held there while adjusting the curved slack side chain guide tight against the chain by pushing it towards the driver's side. The mounting bolt holes on the guides are slotted for this purpose. If the chain is slightly worn the slotted bolt holes can be filed out to give more adjustment on the curved chain guide. Once set, the tensioner can be released against the chain.

The tensioner is pushed out by a heavy spring and also some hydraulic pressure from engine oil pressure fed into the back from the block's internal oil gallery. In practice the tensioner will push harder as the engine revs bring the idle oil pressure up t0 running pressure. This can explain a sound at idle that goes away as the motor revs up. Not saying this is the cause here.

[defdes]

All stretch or slack will collect on the ... slack (passenger)side, where the tensioner pushes out to 'take it up'.

But, assuming he just killed the engine, and pulled the cover, there should never be that much slack in the chain, right? Only when I have turned the motor over by hand using a wrench on the cam bolt have I ever seen it that loose, which is natural. That above does not look natural.

[datzenmike]

But, assuming he just killed the engine, and pulled the cover, there should never be that much slack in the chain, right? Only when I have turned the motor over by hand using a wrench on the cam bolt have I ever seen it that loose, which is natural. That above does not look natural.

Car could have been left in gear and leaning against the front could have backed it up slightly and bumped the motor backwards. This is why I leave in neutral when I have the wedge in holding the chain... so the motor can't be bumped.

[goatee]

Thanks for the info so far guys. I stopped the car and was listening for rattles I have SEVERAL I hvae been tracking down. Anyway I noticed the tick and it seemed to be coming from the timing area. In berts words something like holy crud mucker came out I immediately stopped the car and opened the valve cover to find that. Since it didn't look like it was about to fly off or anything I set the valve cover back on, restarted the vehicle and listened at different RPMs. If I give it any extra gas at all there is no tick. It's a pretty loud tick, I thought at first that maybe one of my lash pads had come off and was bouncing around in there. It's also very random.
All your thoughts are appreciated.