ktberube wrote:The inside will lag and not turn enough. Your front wheels are driving around two different turns.
I like the idea of making it adjustable because in my eyes the inside lagging will be a good thing under high load corners. Depending on the amount of deflection it might be a wash. These are just thoughts in my head though, unlike Keith or anyone who has raced I have no real experience to back my ideas. It's going to be cool when your car is back on the track so you can report back some good data.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
ackerman is a funny topic, as there is no real "target". There are lots of factors that determine what your target might be. One suggestion that seems popular is that for the low speed guys (autocross) you might want more ackerman, however, for high speed corners (road courses) you may actually benefit from a degree of anti-ackerman. It has a lot to do with the specific slip angle that works best for the tires that are being used. Wow, that was absolutely no help to anyone huh, sorry for muddying up things.
Progress. I have two weeks off and intend to get the car on the track by the first race on January 10th (I could watch weeds grow with Seth, but that's another story). Made the upper A-arm to upright pins. Ordered the 7075 aluminum for the steering arms last week and am waiting for it to arrive (had to order it from back east).
ackerman is a funny topic, as there is no real "target".
We ran a circle track car on a 1/4 mile asphalt track. In the last season, I installed a right side 240Z steering arm onto the left of the 510. It quickened the left tire so that it was leading the right tire (inside tire going around a much smaller radius circle than the outside tire). It dropped a consistent 2/10 of a second off our lap times. Made me believe that I would rather have too much ackerman than not enough.
Scrambling to make the first autocross this Sunday. If we make it, the car will be at the carshow/swapmeet in the morning. Of course, my co-driver is busy watching his weeds grow in his back yard while I work on the car, but that's another story. Here is a picture of the steering arm and the rear swaybar set up. More pictures in a few days.
And, do not go to America's Tires to get tires mounted. They suck. But not in a good way.
Do you have a street 510 as well? We're looking at a Gold Coast fun run in November.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
I don't think I've said it lately that I love this thread. I'm going to read it all over again some time this wekend because I think of this topic often on my long commute. Of course I dream about bellcranks and tiny remote spring/dampers, which will never happen, so it's awesome to watch your progress. Keep it up!
Do you have a street 510 as well? We're looking at a Gold Coast fun run in November.
Yes, but the trany broke (the 5th gear shaft punched a hole in the case while cruising on the freeway) and the L18 is tired so I am dropping a KA24DE into it. Maybe I should start a thread for that car. It gets the hand-me-down parts from the EP car (suspension).
I hurt the motor in the EP car at the ProSolo earlier this year. Got it rebuild and in the car. Decided to get the masters out of the engine compartment. Installed a reverse pedal box. Will try to have the brake lines completed by the end of the weekend.
From the San Diego National tour and the ProSolo, I learned that starting my shock settings in the middle of the range was not the way to go. After talking to QA1, they told me that they have to build these shocks to handle a wide range of vehicles and weights. They suggested starting at full soft and adjust from there.
Next time out, finish dialing in the jounce and rebould settings on all four corners, jetting the carbs since porting the head and going to larger chokes, and balancing out the brakes since I moved everything around. Also, I need to verify my ackerman angles and adjust my draglink accordingly (this is a such a cool thing to be able to do, even if I accidently figured out the design would do this).
However, if your homework is good, you may get away with less spring, or you just may be able to use more stick then I ever have!
Actually, since the roll center does not move that much, the moment arm to the CG does not grow a lot and the car does not need to resist as much load to the outside tire. I should be able to use less spring and control it with the swaybar and shock dampening adjustments.
Hopefully you can see this message - I looked at the ban list, and your IP was somehow added to the list of banned IPs. We've been hit REALLY hard with spam in the last little while so you might say that the ban hammer has been flying three fast and three furious, tokyo drift v-tec style as a result.
I unbanned the IP adddess for your original account, so please try to log in using your original account (and tell me if it works again).
When my original account didn't work I created another one (that didn't work either). The original still does not work but the second on does.
Thanks.
Here is a link to the front suspension video. I see that I have to lock down the sway bar from sliding in the mounts. The video is of my 4 Solo runs recently and the end of the video is when I was cruising back to the pits (slow speed motion).
