The 510 Realm

I'd have never thought those baffles would be heard, that is odd but better than clacking CV's or worse. Julian I have timing instructions for you though I know you probably have them but here anyway. I use the Alternate Method and it works great.


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Timing and Idle Speed
Advancing the timing is synonymous with "free horsepower." This is the cheapest modification that you can do to an SR20DE engine. SR20DE engines come with the timing set from the factory anywhere between 10 to 15 degrees BTDC. If you advance the timing, then you will at the least gain crisp throttle response and at the most gain horsepower. But how much timing do you need to advance? In their July 1999 issue, SCC advanced the timing of their 1991 Sentra SE-R to 21 degrees and gained 6 hp. They claim that there was no detonation what so ever. Mike Kojima, however, believes that there is no horsepower to be gained beyond 19 degrees. As such, he suggests advancing the timing between 17 to 19 degrees and using 92-octane gas. I think Mike's advice is safer than SCC's 21 degree timing. Mike insists that you use 92-octane gas. So please do so. If you do not detonation might destroy your engine.
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Here is the method as stated in the FSM:
1. Start engine and warm it up until engine coolant temperature indicator points to the middle of the gauge. Ensure engine speed stays below 1,000 rpm.
2. Run engine at about 2,000 rpm for about 2 minutes under no-load [this means turn off all accessories].
3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed for about 1 minute.
4. Turn off engine and disconnect the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) The TPS is shown in the image to the left. It is the plug that is on top (brown). An SE-R mailing list member told me that only the 1998 and 99 models come with two plugs. I f you have a pre-1998 model you should only have one plug. That will be your TPS.
5. Start engine.
Rev engine (2,000-3,000 rpm) 2 or 3 times under no-load [This will lock the engine in timing mod]. Let engine run at idle speed

Alternate Timing Method:

This procedure is a lot simpler than the one listed in the FSM. Warm up the car to normal operating temperatures, disconnect the TPS while the car is still running, rev the engine three times to about 3,000 rpm to lock in the engine in timing mod, then adjust the timing. I like this procedure and I will use it in the future.
While the TPS is still disconnected, you can check your idle speed. The FSM recommends setting your base idle (with TPS disconnected) to 750 rpm. To adjust your base idle turn the idle speed adjusting screw to your left. After your done reconnect the TPS.

Updating my wallpaper...

Finally installed the rear sway bar I made back during the initial build. 7/8" with adjustments via three holes 1" CTC on each arm of the bar. Same as the front bar I made, but the front bar has 5 spots for adjustment.
And on the wheels, showing the links perpendicular to the ground/mountings: Initially set the rear "full soft" and we'll see how it handles. One of the last Ventura County fun runs I attended went through Ojai and up behind Santa Paula. There's a very switchbacky section of the 150 there, and I was getting dropped. Not because the car wasn't fast enough, but because of the unda unda unda. Mad understeer.

I had planned to get the rear bar on after that run, but then the L20BT died, I ignored it for a year, and, well...here we are.

So I need to hang on to my rear bar until I get the car on the road, eh?

Baz frowns on rear bars with his suspension, but I will keep an open mind until I feel that understeer!

Lots of ways to skin a cat. Proof is in the pudding. Cross that bridge when...well, you know.

Plus, aren't they kinda wild drivers over there?

...everything is wild in Australia!!!

haven't you tasted Bundaberg rum?

haven't you seen Mick Dundee's pocket knife?

haven't you seen the documentary called Mad Max?

We don't run rear bars up here in Canuck land either....

Lots of suspension combos out there. This car is set up similar to my KA510, but with a bit taller ride height and a bit less spring rate. But with my spring rates ~half of what the Canada Suspension is based on, I need more roll resistance than I've had.

Given my front and rear bars are adjustable, it should be pretty easy to dial out some front push. I don't want to move it all the way to rear looseness, however. Not the car's mission, not in my driver's skillset to deal with dorifto angles.

510rob wrote:...everything is wild in Australia!!!

haven't you tasted Bundaberg rum?

haven't you seen Mick Dundee's pocket knife?

haven't you seen the documentary called Mad Max?

OK, OK I get it, sorry for the generalization my Australian friends!

Rear sway bar on the softest setting works pretty nicely. Kills most of the understeer, leaves just a little at higher speeds. I might play with the adjustments, I might not. Still have other things to do.

Like fix the miss. Developed a miss a few days ago, all of a sudden. Really just felt the vibration at idle of a missing engine, but it ran perfectly otherwise so I didn't cotton on to it right away and went exploring the exhaust to see if it was hitting at the rear crossmember. Adjusted the pipe for a little more space and fired the engine.

Same vibration. Went pulling spark plugs, #4 hole is dead at idle. Can't be dead at revs, but no way to check. Pulled the plug and got spark to ground. Reinstalled and then pulled the injector plug. No change, so it's an injector issue. Pulled the injector out and the small o-ring was hashed from installation a few weeks ago. Put another one on, reinstalled, Bob's yer uncle.

Currently repairing the column surround - the ignition bezel has one screw into the column surround, and that little tab broke off. I'm out of fiberglass resin, so JBWeld it is. Also took the time, since the surround was off, to make a plate to cover the hole that the original manual transmission lever came out of. I've never fixed it up until now because I never see it when driving. Since I had the column surround off for the tab repair...

Been having a brake-drag issue, where light pedal pressure sends the car darting to the left. Heavier pedal pressure sees the car stop straight and true. I wanted to see the drum brake mechanisms working under light pedal pressure, to see if anything was obviously hanging up. But I couldn't pull the drum off and then actuate the brakes, like you can with discs.

So I made a tool. I took one of my spare finned drums (true story, but it's not aluminum - for a while RockAuto was advertising cheap finned aluminum drums, so I ordered one, but when it came it was finned cast iron. RockAuto refunded my monies and told me to keep the drum) and cut most of the mounting face off, leaving the lugs so the brake shoes would stay centered when actuated.
Now I just need my second pair of legs to assist me in the garage.

Nice! leave a little more around the hub hole and you got yourself some vented drum brakes!! Run'em!!

Julian,

My front drum brakes do a similar thing.

When cold, on first application, the front drums seem to pull to one side hard if only light braking is applied.
BUT this only happens on the first application, and only when the car has sat for a few days. I have once had it happen after 90 minutes of highway cursing where no brake application had occurred.

I'm curious as to what you find.

But I'm guessing that the inaccuracies of drum brakes is what lead to the application of discs more than the performance. Being a young guy in the arena of the car world in general - the older guys tell me mots cars with drums brakes were a crap shoot - you never knew which way it was going to pull. Hence, grab the wheel tight BEFORE application of the brakes.....

Again cool idea, let us know what you find.

Byron

Less tubing to the left front brake. It sees pressure first so grabs first. You could coil the tubing to equal length.