STEERING BOX DRAIN PROCEDURE 2012

[two_68_510s]

And, corollary to that, is there a way to clean out any gunk that might be in there?, or is that an issue?

[bertvorgon]

Not sure what to say about that. When we took the HL510 box apart, to change the worm and sector, there was no "gunk in there at all. Personally, I would not worry about, it, because anything that sits in the bottom of the box, bottom end, is not an issue. It is the fresh oil going through the ball bearings in the worm sectors gear, and the meshing of the gears themselves, is what we are trying to improve.

[two_68_510s]

Well said, I like that.

[datzenmike]

The 610 and 710 and the 620 and 720 specify GL4 so I suspect bronze or brass bushings. Does the 510 have this and what about the later HL510 box could it have 'yellow metal' in them?

[Rush]

Thread from the dead, I know, but I wanted to say thanks to Keith. I just changed out my steering goop and it was nasty! It was literally goop. I replaced it with Lucas 80-90 gear lube. I was surprised I had almost zero debris in there, though, just a couple of little specks. I am fairly certain the steering box lube has never been changed and definitely not in the time I've had the car.

Mmmm...goopy.

[bertvorgon]

Just in case you never saw this..my post on box adjustment:

Roll the car forward a few feet, to make sure the wheels are pointing forward.
Then, take a wrench and loosen the jam nut on the top of the steering box, AT THE SAME TIME, put a slotted screw driver into the slot in the top of the screw, AND HOLD IT IN THAT POSITION! Now, carefully screw the screw down in the box, till you feel some resistance. ( you may have to back the nut off a hair more, to keep it from tightening up) Then, go grab the steering wheel and wiggle it back and forth, WHILE WATCHING THE WHEELS. You want to see the wheels move, with the steering wheel movement. IF not, tighten a bit more. When it seems ok, hold the screw in that EXACT position, and then you tighten the jam nut!
Now, this is where you find out if your worm and sector gears are bagged beyond adjustment. You have to drive the car, to see if it wants to return to center, AFTER you try to turn a corner. IF it is sluggish, or just plain TOO TIGHT, you have to back OFF the adjustment, till it turns ok, but, if you loose the on-center tightness...YOUR BOX is dead. You will either have to live with that vague steering, try and find a better box, or, try to find a good HL510 box and put that on.

So try a few points , test drive.....GOOD LUCK!

While you can turn the wheels statically, I do recommend you actually drive the car to really see how it's working, and BE CAREFUL when you first turn, as you may be surprised at how tight the box can become, past the on-center feel.

I've recommended too, that the stock oil needs to be cleaned out, and a gear oil put in, with some Moly-G. If the box has survived, you want to keep it in good shape, and give it the better lubrication.


Be very careful, when you test drive...as the steering could be sooooo...tight, that you might have to reef on it to get it to come back. A PERFECT box, is one that has virtually NO on-center slop, turns well, and, depending on castor, should come back to center by itself, if you let go of the wheel.
Keith Law

[Rush]

Thanks, Keith! I actually followed your instructions to adjust it a while back. There is virtually no slop in the steering. I do need to get a proper alignment, though, as it's a hair off and pulls ever so slightly to the left. I think I need to wait until I get my suspension in before I do that though, IF I can get that figured out.

I tried to find the Moly-G stuff or any wear additive but had no luck. If I happen upon some later I can just draw a bit of fluid out of the box & add it in. I wanted to take it for a test rip after the fluid change but it's 39º & pouring now. Boooo.