Problem Bleeding Brakes

[gooned]

^^ yup, smoking gun

[James]

Oh yeah - that's your issue. Glad you found it.

[Rush]

I received & installed my new MC yesterday afternoon. The brakes bled well & they seem to work!

The pedal has pressure but seems somewhat low but keep in mind, I haven't driven this car in 25 years so I can't remember where the pedal sat before. Plus being mechanical brakes it feels way different than my new GMC truck. The pedal doesn't fall or anything like that so I guess when I try to move the car a bit for the first time, I'll know.

[bertvorgon]

Make sure you adjust, under the dash...ANY slop in the brake pedal arm! You want it to be JUST touching the rod from the master, this gets rid of course any "travel". That also goes for the clutch too.

Those bleed nipples look normal to me.

Once pads and rear brakes bed in a tad, things will feel better too. I can only assume the mount for the caliper is square to the rotor...it does not take much to feel "travel", as things square up.

It is amazing, as I fought this type of thing my whole racing time, what slight deflections, etc, add up to in additional travel in the pedal. Once you drive the thing for a time to bed it all in, then re-bleed brakes.

[Rush]

It seems like there’s quite a bit of travel before the pedal arm touches the clevis rod. The pin is in and it’s adjusted to its longest length. I think I’m going to have to get my noggin under there & really take a closer look at it. Maybe it’s normal but It just seems odd.

The clutch pedal feels right relevant to the push rod.

[bertvorgon]

That will not help at all. Funny, I have that same problem on my G35 brake pedal, just not enough thread to make contact with the clevis contacting the pedal. I like have 1/4" of play there which just makes pedal feel awful, at least for me.

I have thought of tacking an extra nut on there to be able to get that adjustment.

[Rush]

I'll do some more investigation & report back if I sort it out.

[James]

Also - after drive it for a bit and get everything centered, make sure you adjust your drum brakes (If you are running them).

[Rush]

Thanks, James! I was just thinking about that today. I know they need to be adjusted because they're new so I'm going to start by jacking up the rear & turning the adjuster til the shoes just touch the drums. I think that's the starting point.

I also bought new 5/16 clevis pins for the clutch & brake pedal arms. I noticed the clutch arm hole is a bit egged out & I couldn't see the brake arm when I peeked under there but I'm betting it's probably in the same, or close to the same condition. I might have to pop them out & weld up the slack. We'll see...

[James]

You can get a 1/4" square socket (I got mine from McMaster carr). It will save the post on the adjuster.
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/socke ... are+socket
Also - keep those adjusters clean and lubed (every time you are in there take them apart and do it is my rationale). They are expensive and hard to find.

[Rush]

Oh! I didn't even know those existed! Thanks! I was just going to use a 1/4" socket with the ratchet end on the adjuster and an allen wrench in the "bolt" side.

Fortunately, my adjusters are in perfect condition. When I did the rear brakes, I took the assemblies out, lightly sanded the pins and cleaned everything up nicely then reinstalled, using a bit of lithium grease on them. I put copper anti seize on the adjuster bolt itself. Hopefully, that'll be good until my next brake job or maintenance on them.

I think between the drum adjustment and the new clevis pin, that will work out the slop in the pedal. Fingers crossed!

[bertvorgon]

It sure will and once all bedded in, it will be a marked difference.

And I hope you lubed the actual slider on those rear brakes, that helps everything to be able to take a set as the shoes move about.

[Rush]

I did. I greased the points where the shoes sit, as well. It said to in the Keep your Datsun alive book.

I’m getting pretty excited to try it out!!

[datzenmike]

My adjusters were already pretty pooched so I welded a 14mm? nut on.


When adjusting the shoes till they drag I always step on the brake to center the sliding adjuster. One shoe is bound to adjust against the drum independent of the other so this will push the adjuster over slightly, then make more adjustment

[Rush]

Thanks for the info! I didn’t think of pressing the pedal to center the shoes. I’ll do that.