1968 510 automatic won't start

[BMID]

So I just started having this problem with my mostly original 1968 510 automatic.

So I just got it out of storage 2 months ago no problems whatsoever until just the other day. When i went to start it this little box up in front of the passenger side strut tower makes a loud click and pushes this little pin that is surrounded by a rubber piece in and out out of the top of it.

I thought it was a neutral safety switch beacuase it used to make a click if you would try to start in gear (before any of this started), so I have another car that used to be a automatic that I took the little box out thinking this was the problem but no luck still does the same thing as before.

I will add it does start if I arc the starter.
Just need any suggestions on what anyone thinks it could be.
Thanks Brian

[MikeY]

I seen that box an an early 68 and always thought it was a remote start button. Might be malfunctioning. I'd look for a way to bypass it. Might sound foolish but try hitting it with a hammer. A few taps might help.

[BMID]

I seen that box an an early 68 and always thought it was a remote start button. Might be malfunctioning. I'd look for a way to bypass it. Might sound foolish but try hitting it with a hammer. A few taps might help.

I've tried hitting it already that didn't do it. I thought that the new box would fix the problem, They are identical both off of 68s.
I'm just wondering if there could be something wrong elsewhere.

I was just going to bypass it like you said but I thought I would ask first incase anyone has had to mess around with this box

[datzenmike]

The wire may have fallen off the inhibit switch on the transmission. On the Borg Warner 35 ( coolant lines) the inhibit switch is on the right side. The Letch Worth (cable kick down, drain on oil pan and no coolant lines) it's on the left side.

Unlikely you have the later '71 3N71B but the inhibit switch is where the floor mount shift meets the transmission on the right side.

[BMID]

Thank you for the help, I ended up running a wire from the starter to the ignition and fixed it.
Although another problem has come It seems like there is barley any spark andit will crank and sometimes fire a couple cylinders but that's it, I've tried replacing the plugs, dist cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil and even the entire distributor. All I can say is now I'm kinda lost on what to try next. Could it maybe that 68s didn't have ballast resistors and I put one in?
Like I said I'm just dumbfounded on what the issue is

[Byron510]

For a starting problem, it won’t be the lack of a ballast resistor. It’s job is to reduce power through the points after the car starts.
I e twice had bad brand new condensers in the pst 10 years - just saying.
Other than that, correct gap and timing, good leads a ignition parts, it should be good to go.
Let us know how you make out with it.
68 auto… bet it had a bench front seat too!
Very cool, I love the 68’s.
Byron

[datzenmike]

Weak spark? Hold a plug wire near ground and turn the engine over. You should be able to jump a 3/4" gap

Get a meter and check the voltage on the coil positive terminal with the ignition switch in the START position. It should read what the battery reads. 12.6 on a fully charged one.