How much to get a SR20 det swapped in?

[okayfine]

[brknrekord]

motivator8a6a440a3463148891176e332634afa2bc9807f9.jpg

[B^2]

who is the go to shop to do an SR20 swap in the greater bay area?

[brg510]

No experience but I would contact the shops below and request a quote:

ZCarGarage in San Jose
Troy Ermish Inc in Tracy
Marcus Fry Racing in Redwood City
Secret Factory USA in Sacramento

Hope that’s helpful

[yenpit]

who is the go to shop to do an SR20 swap in the greater bay area?

Be careful letting any shop wire up the swap, using the original OEM engine harness from whatever JDM car it came out of! I strongly suggest buying the Wiring Specialties engine harness & relay block. Super clean, excellent quality product! We have seen HORRIBLE rats nests of wiring, in what appear to be well built cars. These guys cut open the OEM harness, figure out which wires are needed in the Datsun, then tape it all back up under the dash, leaving MILES of redundant unused wires in the car! WHY?? Buy the Wiring Specialties harness, utilizing TWO wires to power it all up............so much cleaner! We just had a beautiful 510 with a KA24DE in it, in our shop, but the car had some electrical issues. When we dug in up under the dash, the builder had cut open the OEM JDM harness, found what they needed, then bunched up all the other wiring, wrapped it up in a nice mesh sheath, hiding it from onlookers! It had cut wires not taped off, spliced wires not taped off, crappy wire connectors & those MILES of unused wiring.......it was a freakin' mess!! $15k later, with many other repairs, upgrades etc, the car is now SAFE & fun! Sorry, we can't offer up any real idea on cost, cuz EVERY car is different! Good luck with your project!

Also, if you want the heater to work, the engine either needs to be mounted far enough forward so you can use the stock OEM 510 heater hose inlet & outlet OR you will need to run the heater hoses over to the passenger side, thru the firewall, then back over to the swap. Both coolant inlet & outlets on ANY of the JDM or KA twin cams, are both up under the intake manifold, passenger rear. You should decide PRIOR to installing the engine...........if you decide to run a heater, connect a long length of heater hose to the engine BEFORE stuffing it in the car, as the inlet & outlet are easy to get to with the engine OUT of the car..............difficult to get to once the engine is IN the car! One swap, we used a 240Z heater valve, hoses thru passenger side firewall. Another swap, we used an aftermarket heater valve in line with the correct heater hose. We are just about to re-install a heater box in a car with a CA18DET & the hoses will also need to run thru the passenger side firewall, likely set up with the aftermarket in line heater valve.

[icehouse]

who is the go to shop to do an SR20 swap in the greater bay area?

Be careful letting any shop wire up the swap, using the original OEM engine harness from whatever JDM car it came out of! I strongly suggest buying the Wiring Specialties engine harness & relay block. Super clean, excellent quality product! We have seen HORRIBLE rats nests of wiring, in what appear to be well built cars. These guys cut open the OEM harness, figure out which wires are needed in the Datsun, then tape it all back up under the dash, leaving MILES of redundant unused wires in the car! WHY?? Buy the Wiring Specialties harness, utilizing TWO wires to power it all up............so much cleaner! We just had a beautiful 510 with a KA24DE in it, in our shop, but the car had some electrical issues. When we dug in up under the dash, the builder had cut open the OEM JDM harness, found what they needed, then bunched up all the other wiring, wrapped it up in a nice mesh sheath, hiding it from onlookers! It had cut wires not taped off, spliced wires not taped off, crappy wire connectors & those MILES of unused wiring.......it was a freakin' mess!! $15k later, with many other repairs, upgrades etc, the car is now SAFE & fun! Sorry, we can't offer up any real idea on cost, cuz EVERY car is different! Good luck with your project!

Also, if you want the heater to work, the engine either needs to be mounted far enough forward so you can use the stock OEM 510 heater hose inlet & outlet OR you will need to run the heater hoses over to the passenger side, thru the firewall, then back over to the swap. Both coolant inlet & outlets on ANY of the JDM or KA twin cams, are both up under the intake manifold, passenger rear. You should decide PRIOR to installing the engine...........if you decide to run a heater, connect a long length of heater hose to the engine BEFORE stuffing it in the car, as the inlet & outlet are easy to get to with the engine OUT of the car..............difficult to get to once the engine is IN the car! One swap, we used a 240Z heater valve, hoses thru passenger side firewall. Another swap, we used an aftermarket heater valve in line with the correct heater hose. We are just about to re-install a heater box in a car with a CA18DET & the hoses will also need to run thru the passenger side firewall, likely set up with the aftermarket in line heater valve.

I've always used the original harness. The problem is the installer. If they don't take time to do it correctly I blame them not the use of OEM parts. Wiring specialties shortens the harness for the 510? I use the extra length to mount the ECU under the passenger seat. Nice dry safe place.

I've always just reclocked the heater cock, easy mod then you run the hose behind the box against the firewall. Doesn't work on Coupes or 68's.

69+ heater box. Just dremeled out the bent over part on the valve to clock it 90 degrees. Easy and effective. Such a classic photo. Can't believe I haven't smoked in like 6 or 7 years.

[yenpit]

who is the go to shop to do an SR20 swap in the greater bay area?

Be careful letting any shop wire up the swap, using the original OEM engine harness from whatever JDM car it came out of! I strongly suggest buying the Wiring Specialties engine harness & relay block. Super clean, excellent quality product! We have seen HORRIBLE rats nests of wiring, in what appear to be well built cars. These guys cut open the OEM harness, figure out which wires are needed in the Datsun, then tape it all back up under the dash, leaving MILES of redundant unused wires in the car! WHY?? Buy the Wiring Specialties harness, utilizing TWO wires to power it all up............so much cleaner! We just had a beautiful 510 with a KA24DE in it, in our shop, but the car had some electrical issues. When we dug in up under the dash, the builder had cut open the OEM JDM harness, found what they needed, then bunched up all the other wiring, wrapped it up in a nice mesh sheath, hiding it from onlookers! It had cut wires not taped off, spliced wires not taped off, crappy wire connectors & those MILES of unused wiring.......it was a freakin' mess!! $15k later, with many other repairs, upgrades etc, the car is now SAFE & fun! Sorry, we can't offer up any real idea on cost, cuz EVERY car is different! Good luck with your project!

Also, if you want the heater to work, the engine either needs to be mounted far enough forward so you can use the stock OEM 510 heater hose inlet & outlet OR you will need to run the heater hoses over to the passenger side, thru the firewall, then back over to the swap. Both coolant inlet & outlets on ANY of the JDM or KA twin cams, are both up under the intake manifold, passenger rear. You should decide PRIOR to installing the engine...........if you decide to run a heater, connect a long length of heater hose to the engine BEFORE stuffing it in the car, as the inlet & outlet are easy to get to with the engine OUT of the car..............difficult to get to once the engine is IN the car! One swap, we used a 240Z heater valve, hoses thru passenger side firewall. Another swap, we used an aftermarket heater valve in line with the correct heater hose. We are just about to re-install a heater box in a car with a CA18DET & the hoses will also need to run thru the passenger side firewall, likely set up with the aftermarket in line heater valve.

I've always used the original harness. The problem is the installer. If they don't take time to do it correctly I blame them not the use of OEM parts. Wiring specialties shortens the harness for the 510? I use the extra length to mount the ECU under the passenger seat. Nice dry safe place.

I've always just reclocked the heater cock, easy mod then you run the hose behind the box against the firewall. Doesn't work on Coupes or 68's.

69+ heater box. Just dremeled out the bent over part on the valve to clock it 90 degrees. Easy and effective. Such a classic photo. Can't believe I haven't smoked in like 6 or 7 years.

I agree icehouse..............it is a builder issue. So many try to do a clean swap, but they simply don't know how OR they are lazy & take shortcuts. I try NOT to put any known builder of a car down on social media. If you saw one of the 510's that came in to our shop, realized how bad it was executed, you would flip out knowing how much the buyer paid for the car AND how much mulla it took to make it right...........it was sickening. The new owner is a super nice guy & simply trusted the seller.

Our big problem these days with heater valves, is that most of the 510 valves need replacing or rebuilding, are long gone NLA NLS, the cheap 620 valve used to rebuild the 510 valve is now NLA NLS, leaving the expensive 240Z valve about the only choice, other than a cheap universal in line aftermarket valve! The cheap universal has worked out good for now. I bought a universal lawnmower SOLID CORE throttle cable, cut to needed length, rolled the loops at the ends & was able to use the stock dash heater controls with the longer cable to reach the universal in line valve.....again, worked out good!

[icehouse]

Be careful letting any shop wire up the swap, using the original OEM engine harness from whatever JDM car it came out of! I strongly suggest buying the Wiring Specialties engine harness & relay block. Super clean, excellent quality product! We have seen HORRIBLE rats nests of wiring, in what appear to be well built cars. These guys cut open the OEM harness, figure out which wires are needed in the Datsun, then tape it all back up under the dash, leaving MILES of redundant unused wires in the car! WHY?? Buy the Wiring Specialties harness, utilizing TWO wires to power it all up............so much cleaner! We just had a beautiful 510 with a KA24DE in it, in our shop, but the car had some electrical issues. When we dug in up under the dash, the builder had cut open the OEM JDM harness, found what they needed, then bunched up all the other wiring, wrapped it up in a nice mesh sheath, hiding it from onlookers! It had cut wires not taped off, spliced wires not taped off, crappy wire connectors & those MILES of unused wiring.......it was a freakin' mess!! $15k later, with many other repairs, upgrades etc, the car is now SAFE & fun! Sorry, we can't offer up any real idea on cost, cuz EVERY car is different! Good luck with your project!

Also, if you want the heater to work, the engine either needs to be mounted far enough forward so you can use the stock OEM 510 heater hose inlet & outlet OR you will need to run the heater hoses over to the passenger side, thru the firewall, then back over to the swap. Both coolant inlet & outlets on ANY of the JDM or KA twin cams, are both up under the intake manifold, passenger rear. You should decide PRIOR to installing the engine...........if you decide to run a heater, connect a long length of heater hose to the engine BEFORE stuffing it in the car, as the inlet & outlet are easy to get to with the engine OUT of the car..............difficult to get to once the engine is IN the car! One swap, we used a 240Z heater valve, hoses thru passenger side firewall. Another swap, we used an aftermarket heater valve in line with the correct heater hose. We are just about to re-install a heater box in a car with a CA18DET & the hoses will also need to run thru the passenger side firewall, likely set up with the aftermarket in line heater valve.

I've always used the original harness. The problem is the installer. If they don't take time to do it correctly I blame them not the use of OEM parts. Wiring specialties shortens the harness for the 510? I use the extra length to mount the ECU under the passenger seat. Nice dry safe place.

I've always just reclocked the heater cock, easy mod then you run the hose behind the box against the firewall. Doesn't work on Coupes or 68's.

69+ heater box. Just dremeled out the bent over part on the valve to clock it 90 degrees. Easy and effective. Such a classic photo. Can't believe I haven't smoked in like 6 or 7 years.

I agree icehouse..............it is a builder issue. So many try to do a clean swap, but they simply don't know how OR they are lazy & take shortcuts. I try NOT to put any known builder of a car down on social media. If you saw one of the 510's that came in to our shop, realized how bad it was executed, you would flip out knowing how much the buyer paid for the car AND how much mulla it took to make it right...........it was sickening. The new owner is a super nice guy & simply trusted the seller.

Our big problem these days with heater valves, is that most of the 510 valves need replacing or rebuilding, are long gone NLA NLS, the cheap 620 valve used to rebuild the 510 valve is now NLA NLS, leaving the expensive 240Z valve about the only choice, other than a cheap universal in line aftermarket valve! The cheap universal has worked out good for now. I bought a universal lawnmower SOLID CORE throttle cable, cut to needed length, rolled the loops at the ends & was able to use the stock dash heater controls with the longer cable to reach the universal in line valve.....again, worked out good!

I've been involved in lots of repair work on many 510s. My favorite was a RHD conversion. The guy paid a dude to shorten the wiring harness and make sure all the lights work. The owner told me the wiring guy had it all working right before he showed up to pick the car up. So it should be a simple fix maybe even a blown fuse. I told him I would take a look. There was ZERO wiring for all but the headlights! Which were wired very poorly!!! I mean no wiring under the dash but a few red wires haha! Took me 19 hours to make it right. Also did a house call 2 times to find other issues that made it not run. Badly built battery cable (again not me) and a bad coil resistor, which I've never seen go bad. So I can imagine. I'm just glad I'm not scared of wiring like most guys. If I get in a pickle I just call 510Rob!! If I can't figure it out I know he can!!

[510rob]

I've always used the original harness. The problem is the installer. If they don't take time to do it correctly I blame them not the use of OEM parts. Wiring specialties shortens the harness for the 510? I use the extra length to mount the ECU under the passenger seat. Nice dry safe place.

I've always just reclocked the heater cock, easy mod then you run the hose behind the box against the firewall. Doesn't work on Coupes or 68's.

69+ heater box. Just dremeled out the bent over part on the valve to clock it 90 degrees. Easy and effective. Such a classic photo. Can't believe I haven't smoked in like 6 or 7 years.

I agree icehouse..............it is a builder issue. So many try to do a clean swap, but they simply don't know how OR they are lazy & take shortcuts. I try NOT to put any known builder of a car down on social media. If you saw one of the 510's that came in to our shop, realized how bad it was executed, you would flip out knowing how much the buyer paid for the car AND how much mulla it took to make it right...........it was sickening. The new owner is a super nice guy & simply trusted the seller.

Our big problem these days with heater valves, is that most of the 510 valves need replacing or rebuilding, are long gone NLA NLS, the cheap 620 valve used to rebuild the 510 valve is now NLA NLS, leaving the expensive 240Z valve about the only choice, other than a cheap universal in line aftermarket valve! The cheap universal has worked out good for now. I bought a universal lawnmower SOLID CORE throttle cable, cut to needed length, rolled the loops at the ends & was able to use the stock dash heater controls with the longer cable to reach the universal in line valve.....again, worked out good!

I've been involved in lots of repair work on many 510s. My favorite was a RHD conversion. The guy paid a dude to shorten the wiring harness and make sure all the lights work. The owner told me the wiring guy had it all working right before he showed up to pick the car up. So it should be a simple fix maybe even a blown fuse. I told him I would take a look. There was ZERO wiring for all but the headlights! Which were wired very poorly!!! I mean no wiring under the dash but a few red wires haha! Took me 19 hours to make it right. Also did a house call 2 times to find other issues that made it not run. Badly built battery cable (again not me) and a bad coil resistor, which I've never seen go bad. So I can imagine. I'm just glad I'm not scared of wiring like most guys. If I get in a pickle I just call 510Rob!! If I can't figure it out I know he can!!

I can't resist quoting a quote that quoted a quote that quoted another quote. woot!

[yenpit]

I agree icehouse..............it is a builder issue. So many try to do a clean swap, but they simply don't know how OR they are lazy & take shortcuts. I try NOT to put any known builder of a car down on social media. If you saw one of the 510's that came in to our shop, realized how bad it was executed, you would flip out knowing how much the buyer paid for the car AND how much mulla it took to make it right...........it was sickening. The new owner is a super nice guy & simply trusted the seller.

Our big problem these days with heater valves, is that most of the 510 valves need replacing or rebuilding, are long gone NLA NLS, the cheap 620 valve used to rebuild the 510 valve is now NLA NLS, leaving the expensive 240Z valve about the only choice, other than a cheap universal in line aftermarket valve! The cheap universal has worked out good for now. I bought a universal lawnmower SOLID CORE throttle cable, cut to needed length, rolled the loops at the ends & was able to use the stock dash heater controls with the longer cable to reach the universal in line valve.....again, worked out good!

I've been involved in lots of repair work on many 510s. My favorite was a RHD conversion. The guy paid a dude to shorten the wiring harness and make sure all the lights work. The owner told me the wiring guy had it all working right before he showed up to pick the car up. So it should be a simple fix maybe even a blown fuse. I told him I would take a look. There was ZERO wiring for all but the headlights! Which were wired very poorly!!! I mean no wiring under the dash but a few red wires haha! Took me 19 hours to make it right. Also did a house call 2 times to find other issues that made it not run. Badly built battery cable (again not me) and a bad coil resistor, which I've never seen go bad. So I can imagine. I'm just glad I'm not scared of wiring like most guys. If I get in a pickle I just call 510Rob!! If I can't figure it out I know he can!!

I can't resist quoting a quote that quoted a quote that quoted another quote. woot!

Sorry 510rob.............as I was scrolling down re-reading, I was chuckling about the same thing! icehouse, you need to interject anything? We could keep this going, see how many times it quotes before the system crashes...........

[510rob]

I've been involved in lots of repair work on many 510s. My favorite was a RHD conversion. The guy paid a dude to shorten the wiring harness and make sure all the lights work. The owner told me the wiring guy had it all working right before he showed up to pick the car up. So it should be a simple fix maybe even a blown fuse. I told him I would take a look. There was ZERO wiring for all but the headlights! Which were wired very poorly!!! I mean no wiring under the dash but a few red wires haha! Took me 19 hours to make it right. Also did a house call 2 times to find other issues that made it not run. Badly built battery cable (again not me) and a bad coil resistor, which I've never seen go bad. So I can imagine. I'm just glad I'm not scared of wiring like most guys. If I get in a pickle I just call 510Rob!! If I can't figure it out I know he can!!

I can't resist quoting a quote that quoted a quote that quoted another quote. woot!

Sorry 510rob.............as I was scrolling down re-reading, I was chuckling about the same thing! icehouse, you need to interject anything? We could keep this going, see how many times it quotes before the system crashes...........

+1!

[510rob]

it seems to limit the number of nested quotes

[icehouse]

it seems to limit the number of nested quotes

bummer

[510rob]

it seems to limit the number of nested quotes

bummer

total bummer