FS5W71B Swap Issues

[72Daphne]

I picked up a shorty FS5W71B that I got swapped into my car running a stock L16. My understanding was that I would be able to use most of the stock parts for the swap, however after I just got everything installed I am not getting any clutch engagement. My boroscope died so I can't quite see what the issue is inside but I am wondering if the stock 510 clutch fork, pivot ball, or slave cylinder are correct to use for this swap? Btw, I did try to adjust the slave cylinder push-rod but still wasn't getting any engagement.

For additional info I am running the stock flywheel I got resurfaced with a Luk 06-022 clutch set.

[abisel]

If I remember correctly, you have to use the throw-out bearing and collar from the FS5W71B. There are several different throw-out bearing collars depending on the flywheel/clutch diameter. So the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing and collar should be for the FS5W71B. Anyone? Please chime in.

Maybe this will help? https://www.nwdatsuns.com/viewtopic.php?t=1235

Another posting: viewtopic.php?t=27603

[iceman510]

You have to match the throw out bearing and collar height to the clutch you are using. For example, if using the stock flywheel and L16 clutch pressure plate, you should be using the throw out bearing collar and sleeve from your stock 4 speed.

I don't believe the clutch fork is different, and the slave cylinder may make a difference, not sure. I have not compared directly where the clutch fork sits on the 4 speeds versus the 5 speeds and if that requires changing the slave cylinder, but don't recall hearing that over the years.

[funwithmonkeys]

It will more than likely just be the throw out bearing. I think there are 5 different heights of them.

[zKars]

Rule of 92. 92 mm from the flywheel friction surface up to the throwout bearing carrier collar’s little tabs where the clutch fork touches. The clutch cover has to be bolted down to the flywheel so the fingers are at the right position, then place the assembled throwout collar and bearing on the fingers and measure. 92 isn’t hard and fast, you can be a few mm each way. If you have the adjustable length clutch slave rod you can out by quite a bit.

[Byron510]

I became aware of this specific measurement through a great FB page (Church of L) and this will solve many issues when we all mix and match flywheels, transmissions, various brands of clutches and sources of bearings used with the Datsun bearing sleeves.
As the clutch pivot point on all L transmissions is the same relative to the bell housing mounting face, this measurement gives a final check which gives you the chance to make sure it's correct before installing the transmission.
What does change is the height of the flywheel face from the bell housing mount when machining is involved. This can be taken up, as noted above, by the allowable adjustment at the slave cylinder.

Byron

[datzenmike]

The release bearing collar (or housing) is matched to your pressure plate and must be kept together as a mated set. If you keep your L16 200mm clutch and flywheel and it worked on the 4 speed then change only the transmission and everything will work. Four and 5 speed clutch arms are identical except for the hole for the adjusting rod.

One of these is from a 71B 5 speed, the other is from an F4W63 4 speed similar to the 510 transmission with the bolt on pan on the bottom, but without the slave adjustment rod hole on the end.

[72Daphne]

Thanks for all the replies. Just for a little more background, it is the original clutch collar as what was on the car with a new throwout bearing. The clutch and pressure plate should also be for a stock 510 L16. According to what has been said so far that should be the correct configuration.

I got my boroscope going so I will check tomorrow and report back any findings.

[datzenmike]

If you cave some slight looseness in the slave push rod then the clutch is fully engaged. If tight it may be bearing on the diaphragm fingers and may cause slipping.

Be sure that the clutch pedal has some small play at the foot pad. 1/16" to 1/8" is plenty. You can adjust the push rod up under the dash. If no play the master may not fully return to rest position and fluid may not fully return to the reservoir, trapping pressure in the slave.