'69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

[VelvetHammer]

Good news about the steering u-joint replacements. Just went through the search for Z steering ujoints and the 510 stuff looks the same to me. In your picture of the two types you posted, Z's have the same options. The unstaked one has 16mm caps and the staked one has15mm caps. I have purchased both types and installed them successfully. I promise to dig up the specific web sites (two different companies...) tomorrow and pass on the part numbers and all the details. They are ATV drive shaft u-joints believe it or not.

Actually we discussed this in detail here:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/susp ... -play.html

The part numbers and suppliers are in there.

Another option if you want new stuff is to use Woodward steering components. They even have a custom spline connection for the Z rack which is the same as the spline on the shaft on the 510 box if my memory serves.

Hopes this helps. Let me know if I can supply any details.

Fantastic, thanks! I can't remember what search criteria I was googling but it definitely didn't yield this!

[VelvetHammer]

While I was trying to figure out my brake bleeding issue I found some cracks in my drums. They don't penetrate to the opposite side but this seems less than optimal?

IMG_6170.jpg (233.13 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

IMG_6172.jpg (259 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

-shrug- I installed them anyway. I'll swap them out when I get the car running at top speed.

Recently I used oven cleaner to strip the color off my AN fittings

IMG_6153.jpg (171.74 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

IMG_6151.jpg (183.69 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

I also installed some EGT sensors for future tuning

IMG_6188.jpg (194.59 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

Installed a spray bar (I actually had the line shortened a bit, they made it a little too long)

IMG_6158.jpg (220.9 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

I had my heater core pressure tested before going back in the car. The valve is in great shape -whew-

IMG_6199.jpg (201.44 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

One of the cooler things I bought for the car recently was a programable progressive shift light. I used to have a very small tach installed in the blank where the factory clock was supposed to go. Since I bought a NOS clock I now needed a way to know when I was getting near redline.

I'm trying to keep the interior of my car looking bone stock so I didn't really want a big tach or anything mounted on the dashboard. This will seem to do the trick.

IMG_5612.jpg (212.39 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

You can buy it straight or curved, and I took a chance that the radius would match the steering shaft cowling. It looks a though when mounted with a thin piece of double sided foam tape the radius will match perfectly!

IMG_5617.jpg (174.02 KiB) Viewed 5699 times

I'll probably mount it at the bottom of the steering column offset just off the spedo head.

[zKars]

Good news about the steering u-joint replacements. Just went through the search for Z steering ujoints and the 510 stuff looks the same to me. In your picture of the two types you posted, Z's have the same options. The unstaked one has 16mm caps and the staked one has15mm caps. I have purchased both types and installed them successfully. I promise to dig up the specific web sites (two different companies...) tomorrow and pass on the part numbers and all the details. They are ATV drive shaft u-joints believe it or not.

Actually we discussed this in detail here:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/susp ... -play.html

The part numbers and suppliers are in there.

Another option if you want new stuff is to use Woodward steering components. They even have a custom spline connection for the Z rack which is the same as the spline on the shaft on the 510 box if my memory serves.

Hopes this helps. Let me know if I can supply any details.

Fantastic, thanks! I can't remember what search criteria I was googling but it definitely didn't yield this![/quote]

Just to complete this, I successfully put the 40x16mm "ATV700" joint in my 510 steering shaft tonight. It is exactly the same as the z joint and fits the 510 knuclkles perfect. The tiny amount of play in mine was just the cap bearings being dry. You might be able to just take the caps off and put some fresh grease in them to snug them up if they aren't chewed.

image.jpg (177.98 KiB) Viewed 5624 times

[VelvetHammer]

Thanks for the info!

Here's what I found on Ebay

IMG_1052.jpg (272.06 KiB) Viewed 5241 times

The original u-joint

IMG_1056.jpg (388.86 KiB) Viewed 5241 times

The install.

IMG_1054.jpg (524.78 KiB) Viewed 5241 times

The problem?
I had a shop replace the OEM u-joint and they seemed to have pressed the caps in just enough to allow for the clips to be installed with a friction fit but that leaves a bit of lateral slop. I'm wondering if that will also happen when rotated axially under load, or is it fine during rotation? I've seen OEM u-joint with some lateral movement but not as much as shown in these videos.

https://youtu.be/Pg5xtEengd0
https://youtu.be/Pg5xtEengd0

Any thoughts on this?

[VelvetHammer]

The tiny amount of play in mine was just the cap bearings being dry. You might be able to just take the caps off and put some fresh grease in them to snug them up if they aren't chewed.

Sorry, just re-read your post. So you had similar play like mine? I could take the steering box back out and fill the cap if that would reduce the movement, or would movement just pump the added grease out of the cap over time?

[zKars]

Putting fresh grease in the joint caps will extend the life to the point where you may never need to service them again. Replacements are available, search for ATV700 .
Here are some reference links for you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsWdbZFv8V4
http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23345 ... -u-joints/

[VelvetHammer]

Putting fresh grease in the joint caps will extend the life to the point where you may never need to service them again. Replacements are available, search for ATV700 .
Here are some reference links for you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsWdbZFv8V4
http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/23345 ... -u-joints/

already got them, see post above!

[VelvetHammer]

To recap this thread a bit: I finished a full restoration in 2001 (oh man was the car shiny) and had put in a EFI 2.2L L-series motor that was pretty street friendly. It gave me about 10,000 miles of fun before it started having some timing issues, then a few thousand more and the head gasket decided to get funky. I blame my own bad tuning of the EFI in shortening it's life, that, and flogging the life out of the motor in the canyons. I pulled that engine in 2008?

It took a few years to save up but I finally had Ermish build another 2.2 motor for me, this time built for supercharging. But this effort was short lived when I ran out of project cash for all of the punch list items necessary to make that happen, and the car sat for another few years as I got distracted in buying and fixing up a '68 510 race car. The race car engine blew well before I was ready and now I had two 510s sitting around and it was easier to ignore the projects than it was to face them. At some point I sold the race car (4-5 years ago?) and finally started to focus back on the car that matters most to me.

The sale of the race car got me back it the game a bit as I had some money to buy parts. Since I abandoned the supercharged engine I decided to build an NA motor and just get the car running. My dad and I built that one with the kind advice of many folks and a few great vendors.

Just when we got everything installed and hooked back up, we tried to start the car, and my 15 year old Electromotive EFI system decided to up and die. I got about 10 labored revolutions for the motor then, nothing. It was pure joy followed by total sorrow. So I let the the car sit in defeat for another few years while I saved up for another EFI system.

I don't have a wife or kids or a house and if I did that purchase would have ended that, this time I went for the top shelf and got a Motec M130 with GPR software and a PDM15 (power distribution module), along a few other goodies.

As you may have noticed from some of my other threads, I've been doing house cleaning on a bunch a topics I've been avoiding (wheel speed, tires, tucked wiring, etc). I've stopped putting deadlines on when this car is getting running again, but I've got some new energy and I'm starting to make head way once again, one wrench turn at a time.

More to come.

[VelvetHammer]

At some point when the car was sitting my master cylinder decided to spring a leak. It dripped down on the driver frame rail and since then the paint has been slowly coming up in large sheets. I've done my best to neutralize the brake fluid but the engine compartment will certainly need to to be stripped and reshot.

This is a warning to anyone flushing or changing their master cylinder to lay down towels first! Lots and lots of towels!

IMG_1077.JPG (231.69 KiB) Viewed 5146 times

[icehouse]

If you run the fancy brake fluid its synthetic and wont' eat paint. It costs way more but I hate when I respray an engine bay then first thing decide to kill the paint with brake fluid. It's also purple which looks cool haha.

[VelvetHammer]

If you run the fancy brake fluid its synthetic and wont' eat paint. It costs way more but I hate when I respray an engine bay then first thing decide to kill the paint with brake fluid. It's also purple which looks cool haha.

Ah, noted! Any particular brand you recco?

[TheHeretic]

The best - Motul RBF600 (https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-Fac ... B004LEYJO4)

[VelvetHammer]

The best - Motul RBF600 (https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-Fac ... B004LEYJO4)

Thanks!

[VelvetHammer]

My buddy tells me he's seen my car more in the air than on the ground, and for the moment he's right.

IMG_0882.JPG (266.64 KiB) Viewed 5125 times

I basically need to nut and bolt the entire car since I've been messing with almost every system or subsystem, and I don't remember if I just hand tightened things together over the years as a place holder.

I pulled the left coilover to give an inspection and re grease the calipers. I had noticed that since I had powercoated the calipers, they had dug into the coating and carved a channel, possibly limiting the free movement of the caliper itself. I didn't take any pics but need to do the right side and I'm sure it suffers from the same problem, so I'll post the before and after once I do that.

When I took the hubs off I noticed some discoloration on the inner bearing surfaces (where they contact the spindle).

IMG_0879.JPG (252.83 KiB) Viewed 5125 times

They look like burn marks? Is that from not having tightened the hubs up enough? Both bearings roll smoothly, without noise, so there does seem to be any issue there. The spindles themselves do not look discolored.

Anyone know the spec on spindle wear?
Mine measure 26.95mm for the big end and 17.36mm for the small end.

I reinstalled the hubs to spec and everything rotates smoothly...

[VelvetHammer]

Here's the render for my mount for the Motec M130 and PDM 15.

Since the car is a sleeper I thought it would be nice to hide these behind the OEM speaker cowl (which I've been wanting to install for years).
I'll have to cut the top out to make room of the harness plugs, and on the bottom I may use a low speed fan to help drive some air circulation

The firewall has an offset, thus the spacer onto back side of the mount.

PNTBD_REV-A_ECU ASSY_RENDER 4_06-11-17.jpg (137.28 KiB) Viewed 5024 times

PNTBD_REV-A_ECU ASSY_RENDER 1_06-11-17.jpg (140.99 KiB) Viewed 5024 times

PNTBD_REV-A_ECU ASSY_RENDER 3_06-11-17.jpg (123.38 KiB) Viewed 5024 times

PNTBD_REV-A_ECU ASSY_RENDER 5_06-11-17.jpg (138.67 KiB) Viewed 5024 times