1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> CA18DET

Post by **Byron510** » 01 Apr 2014 21:44

I too think the 546 green is my favorite - here's my 68 4dr up close.
I spent the evening looking for a photo of my lime green 73 - I have no good photos - things you don’t think of when your 16. But I have some over exposed photos of it after paint. The photo color appears darker than it really was, but it'll give you an idea of the colour even if the photo is off.
The door jams are original paint – slightly lighter and a bit more yellow tint.

This colour is a real grabber of a colour.

Byron

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 03 Apr 2014 04:50

toylet wrote:you can just bolt your clutch pedal into the automatic pedal box. no need to swap out the whole box unless you like doing extra work.

Doesn't seem to be a bracket for the clutch spring on the stock pedal box, I'll double check because I'd love to not have to take the entire dash off

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 03 Apr 2014 04:52

Byron510 wrote:I too think the 546 green is my favorite - here's my 68 4dr up close.
I spent the evening looking for a photo of my lime green 73 - I have no good photos - things you don’t think of when your 16. But I have some over exposed photos of it after paint. The photo color appears darker than it really was, but it'll give you an idea of the colour even if the photo is off.
The door jams are original paint – slightly lighter and a bit more yellow tint.

This colour is a real grabber of a colour.

Byron

I love both those colours, gonna be some time put into choosing just one for the car

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 07 Apr 2014 17:46

Got my shortblock, head, and transmission back today! Short block is bored .30 over with 240z flat tops and the A87 head is totally rebuilt with bigger valves and Isky springs. Hopefully can start getting it put back together soon and put in the car!

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 11 Apr 2014 16:41

Went to work on the motor today and got a fair amount completed. The head is on with the cam and an all new timing set. Just need to order some new lash pads and everything should be set! Stuck the intake and valve cover on for the pic. It's looking good!

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 27 Apr 2014 11:38

Got the old girl out of the garage and pressure washed the engine bay today!

Other than that haven't really made much progress, need to pick up the proper sized lashpads to finish the motor and am debating on just welding the clutch spring bracket onto my automatic pedal assembly instead of tearing my entire dash out to change the entire thing.

Post by **Byron510** » 27 Apr 2014 18:54

I can't comment on the Ford, but I really think your car would look awesome repainted stock colour with your polished wheels.

Byron

Post by **DimeAttack** » 28 Apr 2014 06:58

When I did my auto to standard pedal swap, I had the same trouble with no where for my clutch return spring to go. I ended up using some steel rod and welding in a bracket, works mint! I'll have to see if I can dig up a picture of it.

Post by **bystickel** » 17 May 2014 18:17

Your car is already a '70s color: Dark Avocado! Please, please take a look at period airbrushing and striping. You could do cream, black, white, and maybe even a hint of orange in some stripe graphics. Look at custom vans (barbarian on unicorn battling a beast holding a bare-breasted buxom beauty) and the great stripe packages that Mopar used to do. And a white or cream-colored vinyl top (wrap).

Crushed velvet interior would be fun. Wink mirror inside.

Mudflaps.

Corvair turbo muffler was THE hot exhaust topper, bitd. Sound good, too.

A chain link steering wheel would be over the top, so don't. Racemarks are period wheels that still look great.

And raised white letters on those tires.

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 18 May 2014 10:55

Well haven't posted here in awhile so might as well give a few updates. The new motor mounts are in and the engine bay prepped for the engine which is essentially done, still need to weld a return bracket for the clutch and shorten the driveshaft but that's about it!

One large thing I've run into is getting the proper sized lash pads. I know I have to check the wipe pattern with my new lash pads but don't know exactly what that entails. Isky reccomends a .267 lash pad for my cam (530 lift 306 duration) but from reading up on it this doesn't seem to be a "for sure" thing. Just don't want to buy the wrong ones and A. waste my money or B. Destroy my cam. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 18 May 2014 11:07

Edit: Disregard figured it out haha

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 19 May 2014 19:19

Got some more work done today. Interior is pretty much put back together after doing the pedals and cleaned up a few of the engine accessories and painted them. Also measured out where my shifter will come through the floor and drilled a small hole to mark it for cutting. Pretty much everything else is on hold till my lash pads get here and I finish up the engine.

Sealik · Post by **Sealik** » 21 May 2014 13:18

Canadian510 wrote: One large thing I've run into is getting the proper sized lash pads. I know I have to check the wipe pattern with my new lash pads but don't know exactly what that entails. Isky reccomends a .267 lash pad for my cam (530 lift 306 duration) but from reading up on it this doesn't seem to be a "for sure" thing. Just don't want to buy the wrong ones and A. waste my money or B. Destroy my cam. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!

So how did you determine the size of pads needed??
Hopefully all your valve stems are the same height etc....if not...you're probably going to need different thicknesses to center the wipe pattern.

Assuming you have aftermarket valve spring retainers.

Canadian510 · Post by **Canadian510** » 21 May 2014 18:24

Sealik wrote:
Canadian510 wrote: One large thing I've run into is getting the proper sized lash pads. I know I have to check the wipe pattern with my new lash pads but don't know exactly what that entails. Isky reccomends a .267 lash pad for my cam (530 lift 306 duration) but from reading up on it this doesn't seem to be a "for sure" thing. Just don't want to buy the wrong ones and A. waste my money or B. Destroy my cam. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!
So how did you determine the size of pads needed??
Hopefully all your valve stems are the same height etc....if not...you're probably going to need different thicknesses to center the wipe pattern.

Assuming you have aftermarket valve spring retainers.

I ended up using my stock lash pads and cutting up some old feeler gauges till I got it centered, Now just trying to find somewhere that has lash pads in stock... And I actually don't, was hoping to get by using the stock ones, should have known better lol.

Sealik · Post by **Sealik** » 21 May 2014 18:45

Ahhhh...figured you utilized the stock pads
You do realize that aftermarket lash pads are not dished/recessed on the bottom like the stock ones?

The stock lash pad is about .165 thick.
The recess is about .069....sooooo...the actual 'lift' is around .096
I used a .150 pad and kept stuffing small circular pieces (cut up from a .010 feeler gauge) underneath the Motorsport pad until the pattern was centered
Ended up with 180s and 190s

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1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> CA18DET

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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build