Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
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Okay, "now" this is starting to get fun ....
Okay, "now" this is starting to get fun ....
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
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This seems like a good place for the motor .. except the oil pan's on the ground, the hood won't shut, and the "frame" can go 2" lower
Nice and far away from the firewall...
This seems like a good place for the motor .. except the oil pan's on the ground, the hood won't shut, and the "frame" can go 2" lower
Nice and far away from the firewall...
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
Time to take everything apart ....
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
Dry Sump.
.. except the oil pan's on the ground
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
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But the transmission's on the ground too ....
and BTW,, the firewall/windshield wiper area is VERY structural... right up there with the frame rails and rocker panels
But the transmission's on the ground too ....
NEVAR!!! .... ..... I'd rather hack the firewall till the roof caves in ....proflex wrote:Hood scoop ............................
and BTW,, the firewall/windshield wiper area is VERY structural... right up there with the frame rails and rocker panels
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
indy510 wrote:
I have a plan .... .. . raise the car?
No!!!
Can't be done... how about a twin sidedraft set up on a rotary - I've never seen a more worthy low profile engine - including the oil pan... unless you go boxer on us
There is will, let's find a way!
http://atkinsrotary.com/store/Performance-Intakes/
I know that someone made a twin sidedraft that went beside the motor and strut tower, but I can't find a photo. the reason I know one was available is that when I worked at an un-named speed shop in my youth, they installed one in an Gen I RX7 - it was a pretty cool set up.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
Dry-sump and one of Dave's cowl-induction hoods. Don't make it hard on yourself.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
...because dry sump is easy (and cheap?)okayfine wrote:Dry-sump and one of Dave's cowl-induction hoods. Don't make it hard on yourself.
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
I'm not sure anything Indy's done has been easy. My comment was more in line with Indy's ultimate goal of lowness. Everything else is secondary (or doesn't even matter). With that in mind, what's some mo' money when the solution is available?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
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Easy? .. no ..... Done right/correctly/qualityly?? ... no ... .... .. .. cheap? .. asside from welding wire/gas/metal ... yes
I started this project with a "goal" of raising the rear suspension/floor only 2 inches, and somehow get one inch more clearance for the front ... I ended up raising the rear floor 4" and front frame rails 3" ... Niether of these numbers are "crazy" new concepts for the 510 world. Many 510 race cars have the front LCA's raised 2.5",, and by raising my rear floor 4", I will still have some negative camber at a "normal" 510 race car ride height.
IMO a "normal" 510 race car is as low as I used to drive this car, with the front X-member 2.5" off the ground and the rear rocker panel seams 3.5" off the ground... I was dragging the exaust, oil pan, frame rails, front and rear floor pans, rockers, and the rear x-member mounting studs .... But when I raised the car one inch fr/rr it would stop all dragging, and make the car actually fun to drive.
I don't see how a dry sump would help this?? .... . the bellhousing is already on the ground:
Easy? .. no ..... Done right/correctly/qualityly?? ... no ... .... .. .. cheap? .. asside from welding wire/gas/metal ... yes
I started this project with a "goal" of raising the rear suspension/floor only 2 inches, and somehow get one inch more clearance for the front ... I ended up raising the rear floor 4" and front frame rails 3" ... Niether of these numbers are "crazy" new concepts for the 510 world. Many 510 race cars have the front LCA's raised 2.5",, and by raising my rear floor 4", I will still have some negative camber at a "normal" 510 race car ride height.
IMO a "normal" 510 race car is as low as I used to drive this car, with the front X-member 2.5" off the ground and the rear rocker panel seams 3.5" off the ground... I was dragging the exaust, oil pan, frame rails, front and rear floor pans, rockers, and the rear x-member mounting studs .... But when I raised the car one inch fr/rr it would stop all dragging, and make the car actually fun to drive.
I know it seems like all I care about is "lowness" . . sometimes I do .. but having a motor sticking through the hood is where I draw the lineokayfine wrote:My comment was more in line with Indy's ultimate goal of lowness. Everything else is secondary (or doesn't even matter). With that in mind, what's some mo' money when the solution is available?
I don't see how a dry sump would help this?? .... . the bellhousing is already on the ground:
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
Fair enough. But is the rear of the trans where it wants to be relative to the diff?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
If you install a dry-sump system, you can almost sit the engine on the ground
...but that stuff is quite expensive!
- example of a dry sump setup --> http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=22
- example of a small diameter flywheel setup --> http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/dats ... wheel.html
...but that stuff is quite expensive!
- Dave Patten
- Supporter
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- Joined: 20 Jun 2008 13:30
- Location: Dunbarton, NH
Re: Really Ratty Rusty Ruby RIP
I wrote an article for the Dime Quarterly about dry sumping my L20B powered racecar. It was quite the experiance getting it right.
The article is available on line (Thank you Julian) DQ Volume 8, Issue 4
Link: https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0ByCvx ... M4M2RiMDY1
The article is available on line (Thank you Julian) DQ Volume 8, Issue 4
Link: https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0ByCvx ... M4M2RiMDY1