My KA24 swap guide - more questions.

[oaklandsyd]

EDITED AGAIN!! 03/01/2010 - My swap has come a long way and is drivable at this point. Anything I've dealt with that is not covered in here relates more to my customizations and issues with the second-hand nature of the engine/trans I bought.

This is a simple parts list of the basic, junkyard friendly KA24DE swap necessities. Each car is different, special, so feel free to add your opinions, list changes, updates, anything.

I've been compiling this as I've swapped in my motor, and everything has been fairly correct so far. Anything else has been muscled to work!

thanks! enjoy!


KA24DE Engine Swap Parts list

Fuel pump – Use an early 200SX or 280zx In-Line fuel pump, a 300zx in tank pump, or a Walbro GSL390 series In Line pump. http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/archiv ... 21346.html

Fuel Lines – They may or may not need to be changed, if they need to be, use 240sx fuel lines or buy generic lines from Summit and make your own. You will need return and send lines. I used 5/16” lines. Put a nice filter in the line somewhere and make sure all hoses are Fuel Injection rated.

Intake Tube & Filter – This is wide open. I ran into an issue where the MAF sensor needed to be on the opposite side of the engine bay from the Throttle Body. I used the stock Throttle Hose > 24” length of 2.75” tubing > a silicon 90 deg. Bend Coupler 2.5” to 2.75” (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.ph ... 9baa93bca4) > MAF senser body > a filter adapter off of ebay (89-94 Nissan 240SX S13 Air Intake Filter MAF Adapter), a cone filter.

Engine Mounts - 240sx top brackets and 510 bottom brackets OR custom fab your own.

Engine Crossmember - cut and flip center section between the mounts. Buy a custom sway bar from DGR fabrication. OR fab/find a custom rear sump oil pan & pickup tube.

Transmission Crossmember - Custom crossmembers can be found online. Vg30.com makes a good one, I made my own.

Ignition Coil - 240sx, stock, depending on year of motor (later models have coils built into the distributor.)

Distributor - 240sx.

Alternator - 240sx or an internally regulated 510 alternator. Some swappers use a Nissan Quest Alt. to get 110 amps.

Exhaust Manifold - Stock 240sx and an exhaust downpipe bent to fit, weld the O2 Sensor hole closed and use recirculation tube hole for relocation. OR buy custom headers. (http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb86 ... G_1030.jpg)

Clutch Master & Slave Cylinders – 510 Master, 240sx slave & lines

Pedal & Throttle Linkage - 240sx throttle cable custom mounted to 510 pedal. I used a Sentra pedal and bent it to fit, and used a throttle cable from a Pathfinder. I’d say 50” is the shortest cable to use.

ECU - #11 is preferred for KA24E swaps, don’t think it matters for DE.

Heater hoses - both 510 and 240sx hoses should work.

Mechanical speed sensor - (if using stock speedometer) 300ZX, first generation, I am spot on with a 20 tooth gear, but my tire sizes are different than most. You will need a speedometer cable from a 510 automatic to reach.

Radiator – VW VR6, VW rabbit, VW Jetta, Chevy S10(82-92), Pontiac Fiero. Links are included below. I used an 84 Jetta with a 2 wire temp sensor built in. Works the electric fans nicely.

Radiator Hoses - This greatly depends on the type of radiator, fans, and pulley setup you employ. I might have the hose numbers I use, but they might not work on your swap. Beg the local auto store to let you dig through their inventory, use a metal coathanger to approximate your curves and lengths.

Electric Fans - Spal are popular, this seems to be a wide open choice, whatever fits. I used two 9” ebay specials.

Pulley Setup - Ratsun.com custom method. http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=9735 OR (this is what i used) - http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showth ... p?t=184085

Drive shaft – Have a shop shorten it OR use a 2-dr driveshaft in wagon KA swaps.

Wiring Harness & Relays – 240sx Engine Harness. (see my wiring post for more info) http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?showtopic=537 < IceHouse’s rather spot on diagram. I suggest the budget swapper use the GREEN Relays from any junkyard Nissan, preferably the 240sx. I used inline fuses. Wiring is tricky, take your time, read the diagrams, and triple check everything before cutting in. You’ll definitely need wire, butt splices, and other misc. wire connectors. I am working on edits to IceHouse’s diagram.

Battery Relocation – This is up to you, I fabbed my own tray and moved the battery 90 degrees and into the tight space behind the headlights (I have a wagon and did not want a battery in the car). 2 & 4 dr drivers may want to run the battery in the trunk. Make sure you use 2 or 4 gauge wire to run the battery to the starter.


EMISSIONS INFORMATION
These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly:
- Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor
- Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models)
- Intake air temp sensor - usually located in intake tube or air box, This is not used for operating the engine.
- Complete EGR system and associated sensors.
- All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work)
- SCV valve and solenoids. (Butterfly flaps in intake can be removed, but LEAVE THE ROD!)
- PAIRC valves, vacuum lines and sensors.

Here is the bare minimum for running the engine:
-Throttle position sensor
-Water temp sensor
-Knock sensor
-MAF sensor
-Injectors
-Distributor/coil
-Primary oxygen sensor
-IACV components
-PCV (some will say remove, IMO, easier & better to keep it.)
-Fuel pump


HELPFUL LINKS!
Websites
http://forum.ratsun.net/
http://www.the510realm.com/
http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

Swap Guide
http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech ... ectKA.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200103030000 ... per_ka.htm
http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=186157

Wiring
http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=549

Miscellaneous
Single Belt Pulley (this is what i used) - http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/showth ... p?t=184085
Single Belt Pulley - http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=9919
Reverse Lights - http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4000

Engine Tech
http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=13745
http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=758 (also has pulley mod on page 1, towards bottom)

Radiators
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFC-8 ... toview=sku
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5104

Fuel Pump
http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/archiv ... 21346.html

Emissions
http://www.freshalloy.com/forums/archiv ... 71820.html
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/271644-em ... nside.html

Images
Reversed Crossmember - http://www.ermish-racing.com/510/etc.html
Intake side - http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r95/ ... MG0406.jpg

[SeanT-wagon]

The most common fuel pump would be a Walbro 255. They're cheap, work great for a stock swap and you can use them if you ever decide to go forced induction or build the n/a KA. Walbro 255's are available in-line or in-tank.

Fuel lines... the stock 240sx are the next size bigger from the stock 510. I don't think you'd NEED to upgrade the stock 510 fuel lines, but since you need a feed AND return line, you'll need to add one in anyway, so why not replace the old one for good measure. Same thing, using the stock 240sx size lines will hold up to forced induction.

Transmission crossmember... I BELIEVE, I'm using one made by Experimental Engineering. The site lists it as a v6 application, but I know it works for me. At $100, it's much cheaper than the Mckinney Motorsports crossmember, utilizes the stock holes in your floor and (i think) a Z isolator.
http://www.vg30.com/images/crossmember.jpg

Intake... Go out and buy an elbow pipe. Save yourself some heat soak, and clean up the engine bay at the same time. For a $10 mod, you get better response to the throttle, better low-end torque and power, and a better flowing system. You WILL have to unwrap the wiring harness that runs in front of the motor and pull the MAF wires to the passenger side of the core support (since you're relocating the intake), but if you're careful not to nick a wire when you make a cut into the electrical tape, it'll take you less than a few minutes.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb86 ... 8_1050.jpg

For the pulleys, I know there's a writeup somewhere (i think on Ratsun) about modifying the alternator bracket with a Datsun truck... 620? In any case, it allows you to run one belt around the alternator, water pump and crank. What I did, and what I believe most people do, is take a water pump pulley off of a SOHC KA24 motor, and it allows you to run one belt around crank/water pump, and one for crank/alternator, and delete power steering and AC. Do a bit of searching, and you'll find the belt part #'s and writeups.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb86 ... G_0953.jpg

Also, check ebay... The $100 long style headers listed for the dual cam motors have worked just fine for my brother and myself. They needed to be dimpled a hair to clear the steering box, as well as cut short so the flange doesn't hit the floor of the car, but they're stainless steel, have a super beefy flange at the block, fit well and exit at 2.5" to set you up for a great sounding AND flowing exhaust. KA's like to breathe... Dyno testing PROVED that an intake/exhaust nets appx 15rwhp gain over stock. The motor truly wakes up when you take off the restrictive crap.
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb86 ... G_1030.jpg
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb86 ... G_1033.jpg

Best of luck with the swap! Document it all and post it up!

[oaklandsyd]

Great stuff.

I've been doing the best I can to document it all, but I've really just been trying to build a comprehensive list of shit thats necessary.

I've just finished the engine rebuild, so next step is getting it in the car!

As for some of your suggestions... I have a Wagon and don't have any intention to relocate the battery. so the elbow bend may not be the best option...

and I'm still not sold on buying a custom tranny crossmember. There has got to be another option, assuming swappers have any Fab ability whatsoever.

thanks for the advice, It all goes into the archives!

[ichorid]

Moving the battery to the trunk is a great thing to do regardless of the swap. I dont know how I would deal if it was still in the bay with my KA in it. The key thing is to removing the tray cleanly so it doesnt look like you used kiddie scissors to chop it off.

[oaklandsyd]

well. i actually use my wagon as though its a wagon. so theres no way the battery is going in the car.



I have a quick question about the vacuum lines and emissions junk on the intake... EDIT: how do you just delete it? Unplug it and put bolts, plugs and caps in its place??

I'm about to throw the intake manifold on this weekend, and want to get rid of as much stuff as possible, and properly.

Anyone in the SF Bay Area with a KA swap want to let me come look at yours and take some notes?? I'm about burnt out on digging through the internet for answers...

[okayfine]

As for some of your suggestions... I have a Wagon and don't have any intention to relocate the battery. so the elbow bend may not be the best option...

You're going to have a heck of a time getting the throttle body linkage to occupy the same space as your battery.

DQ Volume 9 Issue 1 - Tech How-To: Battery Relocation - If you want to relocate the battery in a wagon, you’ll need to find a place to put it. Dan Heil shows you two likely spots.

[oaklandsyd]

INTAKE EMISSIONS REMOVAL

I found this article for a pretty good idea of what is removable from the system.
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/271644-em ... nside.html

I ran into a couple issues though myself...



A - Fuel Pressure Regulator line? I don't have the fuel pressure regulator. Do I need it? How does it hook up?

B & C- Not sure where theses run to, should I plug them???


I'm getting damned close to dropping this motor in, and soon the swap guide will be pretty much complete!

Thanks for the help!

[wilderb]

A is part of the pvc system (keep this)

cant remember the other two though

[spoolinitup33]

"A" is not the fuel pressure regulator line, where did you come up with that? In the link you gave, it says "A" is the positive crankcase ventilation lines (PCV). And yes, just go to advanced auto or auto zone and get some Vaccu-tite rubber fittings and cap off B and C. And I'm pretty sure your engine should have a fuel pressure regulator. It should be on the fuel rail, if you don't have one, you need to get one.

[oaklandsyd]

Okie Doke.

so A runs hose from that fitting to the intake tube? or straight to the valve cover?

SO the Fuel Regulator runs in the Fuel return line... Where does the vacuum for it hook up? I can't find the plug it would go to..the FSM is really bad at illustrating it...

I really just need to look at someones set up. or suck it up and get a shop to help. :/

Thanks!

[okayfine]

SO the Fuel Regulator runs in the Fuel return line... Where does the vacuum for it hook up? I can't find the plug it would go to..the FSM is really bad at illustrating it...

C

[oaklandsyd]

sweeeet.

That's what I was hoping for.

C it is.

[spoolinitup33]

If a KA is like an SR there's all kinds of places you can get vacuum from.

[blasta510]

Would this fuel pump work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/

[goichi1]

B looks like the vacuum line for the brake booster, and is that your fuel pressure regulator laying on the table next to the intake? it should attach to your fuel rail, at one end.....