280zx strut swap questions

[spoolinitup33]

I figured I should stop thread high jacking from Jesusno2. I got my front strut assembly taken off of my car just to see what I was getting into with the 280zx swap. I have some pictures and some questions to go along with them. In the first picture, I could not figure out how to get #1 disconnected from #2. I labeled them that because I'm not sure what they are called, please tell me! I got the pin and nut off of it, but it wouldn't come out. Now would the 280zx strut have the same #2 piece on it, so I wouldn't actually need to remove this piece? And on the second picture, you can see where just below the spring perch it has a weld around it, and I know it's not factory because it's a shitty weld. Would the p.o. cut part of it out to make the car sit lower or something? And should you be able to move the spring up and down? I know I changed the shocks on my truck a while back and I had to go get the springs removed by someone because they were under so much pressure. And is the shock inside of the strut tube?

[Benzo]

The part you are showing is # 1 is the steering arm and # 2 is the tie rod. if you want to seperate without damage use a good sized hand sledge and whack the steering arm so it knocks the tie rod loose. I sometimes use some WD 40 to help loosen. now if you don't care about the tie rod and will replace you can use a ball joint seperator tool to seperate. also make sure to put the nut on the tie rod on loosely so if you whack the arm and accidentally miss you don't screw up the threads on the tie rod.

in the second pic it does look like the PO may have shortened the strut which is not bad to do to get a better ride. Sorry i don't have measurements to compare to see if yours have been shortened.

[defdes]

#1 can be removed from #2 with a heavy mallet, or a fork designed for splitting this style joint. Just be careful of the threads. The struts will not come with these pieces, so unless you need to, don't bother..Just re -lube them upon re assembly.
As to your other question, that looks like the strut was shortened...and when there is no weight on the car, you can move the springs up and down.

[spoolinitup33]

The part you are showing is # 1 is the steering arm and # 2 is the tie rod. if you want to seperate without damage use a good sized hand sledge and whack the steering arm so it knocks the tie rod loose. I sometimes use some WD 40 to help loosen. now if you don't care about the tie rod and will replace you can use a ball joint seperator tool to seperate. also make sure to put the nut on the tie rod on loosely so if you whack the arm and accidentally miss you don't screw up the threads on the tie rod.

in the second pic it does look like the PO may have shortened the strut which is not bad to do to get a better ride. Sorry i don't have measurements to compare to see if yours have been shortened.

Ok so if I get the 280zx struts, should I remove the steering arm off the 280 to put on my car? Or are the 280zx and 510 steering arms the same? And I'm guessing that they did cut out part of the strut tube and weld it back together, both sides are like that.

[qwik510]

I have heard that the ZX steering arms are shorter then the 510 arms and will give quicker steering.

Anyone else heard this?

[Benzo]

for me I used 280 zx struts and brakes and used bump steer spacers. I did not need the zx steering arms. I have not ever tried that so can not say if it works or not to give better steering response. I have heard and do believe that if you do not use bump steer spacers to put the left strut and brake on the right hand side of car and the right strut and brake on the left hand side so the brake calipers clear the steering arm and tie rod. If you use the bumpsteer spacer then no need to do that flip flop as the spacer makes room to clear, if you can check out my myspace page under garagelife to see my mods or flckr under people and type in smart monkey.

[rnorrish]

your parts numbered 1 & 2 can stay on the car.
the 280ZX strut will bolt directly to where you took out your (not so) original 510 strut - same 2 bolts even!

the second weld on your strut could be the old weld for the original spring perch, and the PO was too lazy to grind it clean... wouldn't really know unless you measure. then you would know if they were shortened.
given the coil overs, i'd bet they are shorter.
you could sell these to someone not wanting ZX stuff but wants a lowered ride. 510 brakes are not terrible.

measure from the top of the cast base, to the top of the tube, and let us know what you get.

it's okay that the springs are loose too, that's common with coilovers. same goes for the loud bang after putting it back on the ground and the spring seats back on the hat properly...

and yes, the shock insert is inside the tube. there is a large nut on top that hold it inside.

[spoolinitup33]

your parts numbered 1 & 2 can stay on the car.
the 280ZX strut will bolt directly to where you took out your (not so) original 510 strut - same 2 bolts even!

the second weld on your strut could be the old weld for the original spring perch, and the PO was too lazy to grind it clean... wouldn't really know unless you measure. then you would know if they were shortened.
given the coil overs, i'd bet they are shorter.
you could sell these to someone not wanting ZX stuff but wants a lowered ride. 510 brakes are not terrible.

measure from the top of the cast base, to the top of the tube, and let us know what you get.

it's okay that the springs are loose too, that's common with coilovers. same goes for the loud bang after putting it back on the ground and the spring seats back on the hat properly...

and yes, the shock insert is inside the tube. there is a large nut on top that hold it inside.

You know I didn't really notice, but it looks like there is a weld right below the spring perch, is that like that from the factory? I thought it was normal that the springs are loose, just making sure! And yeah every time I let the car off the jack both sides pop real loud lol.

#1 can be removed from #2 with a heavy mallet, or a fork designed for splitting this style joint. Just be careful of the threads. The struts will not come with these pieces, so unless you need to, don't bother..Just re -lube them upon re assembly.
As to your other question, that looks like the strut was shortened...and when there is no weight on the car, you can move the springs up and down.

Ok so I don't really need to take the steering arm off at all right? I can just bolt the 280zx strut to it? And what part would I re-lube and what would I lube it with? I'm going to get a picture of the other end of the tie rod tomorrow, I'm not sure if they need to be greased or what, it just looks like something is missing to me where it connects on the other end.

[defdes]

On the ends of what you labeled #2, there will be a zirc fitting, take your grease gun and pump it full until you see new grease coming out between the joint.

[okayfine]

You know I didn't really notice, but it looks like there is a weld right below the spring perch, is that like that from the factory?

In your second picture, nothing dealing with the welds or spring perch is from the factory.