Clamp it back down when you weld. You can get to three sides of the tubes with it clamped. I can clamp the bottom tier and the top tier separately in the same jig above. Now, once I start attaching the uprights to the bottom tier in prep for attaching the top tier, just space out your welding more. Weld one side of each tube upright, then move to the next. Don't concentrate the heat and you won't have much of an issue. AFAIK.indy510 wrote:How do you stop the frame from warping while welding more than just tack welds? ... everything is level, and flat now,, but 2 or 3 passes with heat, and it will no longer be perfectly flat/level
A steel platform would be better for this sort of thing, but that's a bunch of money and time to build. If I were doing more than one, that might be a different story, especially if I elevated the steel platform to table height.
What you see is 2x2 box. Most of it is .065, but the rear tubes are .090, and the middle two of the four uprights along the rear will also be .090, since that's where the rear suspension is going to attach.indy510 wrote:what thickeness of metal is the 1-1/2" or 2" square tubing?
I'll be adding some triangulation with 1x1 box.
Mostly in my head. I have a copy of the Build Your Own Sports Car for as Little as £250 and Race It! book, which shows plans and dimensions for building a Lotus 7 copy. I'm roughly using their numbers for the width and angle of the tub, but making it fit me.indy510 wrote:have you been drawing out plans for a final frame design? .. or exact replica size of a OG Morgan?
I do have the wheelbase, overall length, and track width of the new Morgan, and I'll build it to approximate those dimensions. New 3-Wheelers have a lot more track width than the first ones.