New from Sunny South Africa

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okayfine
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by okayfine »

R200 might not be overkill for SR/DET, depending on boost levels :)

There were a rash of CV threads a few years ago when everyone was trying to figure out what worked. This was about the same time that Mattndew CNCed his Type II adapters, which is the path I took. But I wasn't looking at boosted SR power.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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PoorMtnKid
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by PoorMtnKid »

Do you guys have the 04-06 Subaru WRX STI in South Africa? I'm running the R180 from an 05. Only thing I had to swap over from my stock r160 was the nose flange that bolts to the drive shaft and then get the stubs that Okay is talking about. I did have a hard time finding them until Todd from WolfCreek sold me a pair of his own personal ones he was using for a build. I think the guy who was making them was called "Beta Motorsports". He was only doing runs every 6 months or so and I did not want to wait. I'm running a red top SR/DET that dyno'd over 300 WHP. No problems with the R180 CLSD from the STI.
looking for pass. side arm rest
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

we do have 04-05 subaru's here , but the lotus 7 guy's also use that diff making it hard/expensive to find.

i will see what other plan i can make.

anybody ever replaced the hub/companion flange with a newer type that the cv goes into the hub , something like a maxima or primera front hub?
also 4-114 pcd(on the pimera)
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

the car has been blasted at last.

i hope to have it back by the weekend.

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the guy's have quite a clever setup.

they have a large rotating jig they strap the complete car to so that they can clean the underside.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

made a trolley for the car today, and stripped all the suspension out.
had to use a 4 pound hammer to get the steering box bolts out.
will try my hand at metal work for the first time tomorrow.

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Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

actually got some work done.

also, i learnt a few things:
- don't wear short pants while welding and grinding
- one can never own enough grinders


the first thing i attempted war replacing the spare wheel well, the original one was beyond repair.
mine is not the same shape as original, but it will hold a wheel/tools and its not rusted anymore.

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then i removed the old seat brackets.
scary how badly they were abused by a previous owner.

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then i started on the left front floor board/inner chassis leg.

before:
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After:

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and then finally i got to the side sills.

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the side sills are not a very accurate copy of the orriginal datsun profile(close enough), but it closes the hole, and most important, no more rust.

i will tackle the right side in the new year.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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Byron510
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Byron510 »

Good progress.
A word of caution when installing rockers, install the doors to make sure your gap at the bottom of the door to the top edge of the rocker remains consistent. This is especially important if the inner rocker is also rusted as your is.

It's interesting, I would have expected this level of rust in a snow belt car where salt is used on the roads for de-icing. But I wouldn't have expected it from a vehicle from a warmer climate.most would walk a way from such a repair, hats off to you sir.

Do keep us posted on your progress.

Byron
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because the opposite never works.
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broke
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by broke »

Hi Heinrich,

Because you have a R30 rear end you actually have most of your CV conversion already. The R30 companion flanges have the same diameter and spline count as 510 ones, so you can remove the 510 flanges and fit the R30 ones to your 510 arms.

If you use a R200 diff you can disassemble the shafts and have them shortened to suit the 510.

If your R200 isn't already a LSD you can use a CLSD with the open diff axles no problem. VLSD or Torsen will be a lot more work.

This is pretty much what I'm doing too, except I'm using a DR30 CLSD, C32 Laurel open diff axles which push into the diff with no flange and R30 "hatch-wagon" companion flanges.
The IDx 10 concept is based on the 510 in the same way that the urinating I was doing last night was based on a 30 yr old single-malt scotch.
-McWicked
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

thank you both for the reply.

@byron:

in hindsight, your door suggestion makes sense, i will fit them and see what goes on, and definitely do so on the other side.
i did use a straight edge to keep it as correct as i can.
i think the reason that the rockers are so badly rusted is due to the fact that there was an awful lot of mud stuck in the rockers when i got the car.

@ Broke:
thank you for the info.
i have an LS unit out of a S14 with the S14 output flanges that according to a friend of mine can fit into the open R200 casing that i have.
as far as i know, that is a VLSD.

but the companion flange info helps a lot.
maybe with a bit of digging i wil find inner cv's that wil bolt to the S14 diff flanges and then just have the shafts shortened/splined for them.


but that is for later, let me survive the bodywork headache first.

unfortunately things will slow down a bit now as i have to go back to work soon. :(
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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Byron510
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Byron510 »

You know what they say - live and learn.

I learned the hard way that with no reference, it can go sideways. I installed two sets of rockers on a 68 4 dr I once owned, and got this detail quite wrong. I'm not sure if anyone ever pointed it out to me, but I sure could see that it wasn't right.

Here's to hoping you car stayed nice and straight. But keep us posted anyways on your progress.

Byron
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because the opposite never works.
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

i fitted the left doors almost with my eyes closed , hoping it was not a big b@lls up.
it looks ok-ish.

the gap between the rocker and doors is nice and constant, nothing hits.
it is a bit big tho, but compared to the donor car i have, it seems to be fine.

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one small( i hope small) problem there is , is that the left front door does not sit flush with the side sill on the front where the door and fender meets.

the hinge is not shimmed and it is the right hinge as far as i can tell.
one thing i did notice is that the door was bent where the bottom hinge fastens to the door.it almost looks like the hinge got stuck in open position and someone tried to force the door closed.
i bent it back as best i could but it did not make the difference i needed.
the gap is about 5mm.
i also measured the distance from the car to the side sil and it is also the same as my donor car, plus, i did not cut away the top part of the sil so it is very unlikely that what i did there caused the problem.

any suggestions.

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Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
greenthumb
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by greenthumb »

Heinrich
If this is your first attempt at metalworking, that is awesome progress! Also a very ambitious undertaking. Good luck!
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

some more progress.

finished the right side floor and side sill as well.

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also started on the fire wall.turns out to be worse that i thought as well :(

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here i removed part of the firewall to be able to fix all the rot inside.
haven't actually started fixing this yet, just opened up.

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Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
dan_the_man2
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by dan_the_man2 »

Wow, quite a project. Looking forward to following your progress.
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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Post by Heinrich »

i have looked around a bit about wheel centering on the hubs but haven't found anything significant yet.

i plan putting bigger brakes on the front of my car and convert the rear to disc brakes.
i also have to space the wheels out by 12mm to clear the 510 strut.

i hope to use P11 primera brake discs and calipers on the front and R30 skyline rear calipers and discs on the rear with both front and rear disks over the hub like more modern cars.

focusing on the front for now, The primera disk spaces the wheel out by 8mm so i need another 4mm spacer.
what worries me now is how do i center all of this .

the locating hole on the primera disc is 69mm and the 510 hub center(if that makes sense) is 66 mm.
i suppose i can just have someone lathe up a spacer between the hub center and disc center?

and then the wheel?
how important is it to center a wheel with more that just the studs/nuts?
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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