Turn signal flasher relay

[510rob]

http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Connectors

[bertvorgon]

Yesterday I went to try to get at my wiring harness's under my dash/steering column.

I basically gave up as I just cannot easily strip stuff away now. My tach and wide-band are mounted on the top steering cover, then a nest of thermo-couple wires, methanol spray trigger wires, blah, blah, are in the way, just too much to peel away. If I did not have lights/turns, it would be a project to be tackled for sure, but, I do have functioning, BRIGHT lights now, so it's just not worth the effort to gain another 2 volts at this point.

I leave it to someone else to check there system and if the problem area is really nailed down, then that could just be the target project.

[RMS]

maybe we run relays and a dedicated power feed ? ..... thats how I did the brake and running lights in 6inches

[bertvorgon]

When I was at Andy's yesterday, that is EXACTLY what he suggested.

What would be cool to do also would be to have a variable DC power supply...check bulbs at 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 volts,
see what the brightness change is in reality. I know in my case, 8 volts to start, the incandescent was very dull.

The LED's at 10v at the back seem very good, but, could they be brighter? I should fire up one bulb in the socket, and as my battery is in the trunk, hit another one with full battery voltage, I do have some extra 1156/1157 LED.

[bertvorgon]

I was over at the 510 today and did some quick testing.

For sure, at full battery voltge 12 -13, my LED 1156 was significantly brighter than the standard 1156 bulb.

At the turn signals, at 10 VOLTS, the LED was WAY brighter than the standard, which has an almost yellow glow to it, hence the dullness.

I decided to check the licence lights and the rear tail running light, ALL had 11 Volts.

so again, I surmise that there is voltge loss through that turn signal switch and just generally some line loss through our old wiring and connections.

[RMS]

sounds like the stock harness should only be used for switching relays.

[bertvorgon]

Yah, if anyone is still running stock bulbs for really bright lights a relay would be the way to go..

Anyone with a battery in the trunk would have an easy go of it, as good power is right there.

[ostaylor]

I picked up my wiring diagram today and can see that you MUST have the 4 ways working first, as THEY supply power to the turn signal flasher, so that is good, mine works just fine.

Keith - did you replace both your 4 way flasher and your turn signal flasher or just the turn signal flasher? I see two of them in your pictures, so assume both but wanted to be sure as I am about to order mine.

Debating whether to roll the dice with Amazon flashers... Shipping and US exchange from SuperbrightLeds makes it pretty expensive.

[datzenmike]

I picked up my wiring diagram today and can see that you MUST have the 4 ways working first, as THEY supply power to the turn signal flasher, so that is good, mine works just fine.

I don't think so. Turn signals are powered from the fuse box through the ignition switch. 4 ways are connected through a fuse to the battery and can work without the ignition on. Pull the 4 way flasher unit off and the turn signals will still work.

The 4 way switch MUST be OFF for the signals to work with the key on.

[yenpit]

If you are looking for replacement flasher units, we install AutoZone's Novita #EL12 in both turnsignal AND hazard.......same unit. These are electronic heavy duty, unlike the original contact style. Work great!