Five-Hundred and Ten

[MarkReidHRC]

We also got a blast cabinet off of Craigslist and J-Rod has been busy cleaning parts. The 2 compressors hooked together seem to keep up but we were having a moisture issue. After checking Youtube for a solution we built a desiccant dryer out of some sched 40 pvc pipe. We also added 30' of copper pipe from the compressors to the air dryer. (Youtube said to do this also.) Moisture issue is gone.
We got the garnet media and the desiccant pellets from Manus Abrasive Systems (http://www.manusabrasive.com/) not far from where we live.



Before blasting.



After blasting.

[Byron510]

Funny you mentioned the copper line. I did the same thing many years back when I too painted my green 68 (back in the 90's) at dad's place out in Whonnock. While I was doing bodywork I found that the water trap - located about 15' after the compressor, wasn't catching water and it was pooling in the lines. Then I realized how warm the air was at the water trap - hot enough that after prolonged use you couldn't keep you hand on it. Knowing that warm air hold moisture, I bought a 100' of 3/8 air line to put between the compressor tank and the water trap and placed some of that line in a coil in a 5 gallon bucket of water. That seemed to do the trick , the water trap was now catching water. So the experiment was a success - and I needed the new air line anyways. I ran new copper lines out the wall under the eve, down the shop and back again on the north side of the building for a total of 80' run outside. And the copper conduct the heat much more efficiently that the vinyl hose, so it worked even better. Over 20 years later those copper lines are still there in action, even though dad moved the compressor twice, eventually to it's own little home outside the shop to keep the noise elsewhere.

Once I get a compressor here at home, I'll be doing something similar I'm sure.

It's so awesome that your son's are involved in you project - I'm truly envious. My son hates anything that makes sound or noise, so getting him in the shop is a task in itself. Once there is any tool that makes noise - colour him gone! At least my daughter sometimes sticks around. But they are both 8-10 years younger than your guys, so we'll have to wait and see. There is hope - I drug home a red 280ZXT 5spd, and suddenly he likes cars...

Progress look great, keep it coming.

Byron

[MarkReidHRC]

K Breezy has finished TIG welding on the Byron brackets. Rear cross member ready for blasting.

Brackets and 4" hole for exhaust installed.



Top view. Ready for blasting.

[MarkReidHRC]

Upper inner fender rebuild is slowly coming along. After blasting we were left with areas of missing and thin metal. We have removed most of these areas and replaced them with new metal. Realizing that welding in the new box beam would be almost impossible ( for our level of skill and required tools) we decided to add a doubler. This would make welding the box beam in easier and add strength to the front end.

Doubler and new fender flange installed



Fitting of new box beam.



Box beam welded up and almost fitted.



Almost ready to paint the inside and weld into place

[gooned]

Great job guys!

[Kreid]

Make sure you leave some welding for me to do...

[Byron510]

I like how you’ve mimicked the dimple about a foot back on this box section. This engineered piece was added shortly after production started to assist in folding of the front section of the car during a heavy impact. Really early 68’s didn’t actually have this little dimple.

Great work guys.

Byron

[Heinrich]

well done.

[MarkReidHRC]

Rotisserie makes the upside down welding easier.



Finished welding on the upper inner fender box rails.

[MarkReidHRC]

Before.


After.

[MarkReidHRC]

WOW! just looking through some of the 510Realm stuff and came across someone who makes floorboards for 510's (happy mine are good)
Check out the photos he has on his FB page. Amazing!
Chris Deshane https://www.facebook.com/chris.deshane. ... friends_tl
Searched Youtube for his name, but didn't find anything. Would love to watch this guy work.

[MarkReidHRC]

More patching...

Front left frame and fender



This patch includes the mounting holes and nuts for the front bumper brackets.



Another one done!



Behind the front wheel



Another one off the list.

[Byron510]

Nice job on the lower inner fender well patch below the bumper mounts. This is a really common repair in this area as it just seems to be a place where water collects in that box section and it's really quite thin material from the factory - where the "frame rails" are significantly thicker gauge of steel. Nice save on the bumper mount captive nuts. The thread size is either M10X1.25 or M10x1.5 on these, should you feel the desire to run a tap through them and clean up the crusty threads.

The rust on the lower section of the strut tower is less common, but you did drag home a salt belt car so I guess anything goes!

Man, you guys are getting there fast. Great job. That jig to roll the car around on is awesome. You always have the ability to weld upright. That is such a bonus!
How well is the jig weighted/balanced - for ease of rolling over? Did you get the center of gravity pretty close or spot on? You are in a unique position to tell us exactly where that center of gravity is on a stock 510 shell. For instance if you do have it centered perfectly in the hoop, could you share with us the height of the floor pan off the ground (when level) and the exact diameter of the hoops themselves?

Keep the photos coming, the project is moving along great.

Byron

[MarkReidHRC]

Nice job on the lower inner fender well patch below the bumper mounts. This is a really common repair in this area as it just seems to be a place where water collects in that box section and it's really quite thin material from the factory - where the "frame rails" are significantly thicker gauge of steel. Nice save on the bumper mount captive nuts. The thread size is either M10X1.25 or M10x1.5 on these, should you feel the desire to run a tap through them and clean up the crusty threads.

The rust on the lower section of the strut tower is less common, but you did drag home a salt belt car so I guess anything goes!

Man, you guys are getting there fast. Great job. That jig to roll the car around on is awesome. You always have the ability to weld upright. That is such a bonus!
How well is the jig weighted/balanced - for ease of rolling over? Did you get the center of gravity pretty close or spot on? You are in a unique position to tell us exactly where that center of gravity is on a stock 510 shell. For instance if you do have it centered perfectly in the hoop, could you share with us the height of the floor pan off the ground (when level) and the exact diameter of the hoops themselves?

Keep the photos coming, the project is moving along great.

Byron

The car's C of G is not balanced in the hoops. It is easy enough to turn and 1 guy can roll the car easily. (It is only a 510 shell) A couple of wood wedges on the floor on either side of the hoop keep the car in position. The hoops can also be easily slid on the floor if you don't like the position the hoops rolled to.
The hoops were made from 20' standard lengths of 1-1/4 sched 40 galv fencing pipe. (cheap) Diameter is just under 7'
The car is roughly centered in the hoops.



About 26" off the floor to where the front cross member bolts on.



32" from the floor to the trunk bottom.



Wheels are about 1" below the bottom of the hoop to allow the cart to roll freely.

[Kreid]

Is it possible to put the photo gallery link into your first post of this forum for easy access?