1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> CA18DET
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Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Do you know if McKenney has Dyno time and hp output with these headers for the DE and VE?
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- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
I'm not 100% sure, Profab is the company that makes them for McKinney and they make some pretty wild headers so I trust it'll be good. That and since it's a bolt on solution for the VE made up my mind.Three B's Racing wrote:Do you know if McKenney has Dyno time and hp output with these headers for the DE and VE?
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
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Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Still sanding away in the engine bay, since all that dust is in the garage and I was about to start putting my bottom end together on the SR I risked being yelled at and brought the engine into the house
Now I have a nice clean place to work on everything.
Picked up a dial bore gauge from Napa to fine tune my clearances aswell, was going to just use plastigauge but figured with the time and money already in this engine I better not cheap out on an important area like bearing clearances. On that note realised I also bought gtir Sr20 main bearings that won't work with my block.... they require some additional machining to work properly and nowhere local has the jigs to do the work. Cheaper to just get the same brand bearing for my block then sending it out for the marginal difference it would make. Hopefully they'll be here this week so this bottom end can finally get buttoned up!
Now I have a nice clean place to work on everything.
Picked up a dial bore gauge from Napa to fine tune my clearances aswell, was going to just use plastigauge but figured with the time and money already in this engine I better not cheap out on an important area like bearing clearances. On that note realised I also bought gtir Sr20 main bearings that won't work with my block.... they require some additional machining to work properly and nowhere local has the jigs to do the work. Cheaper to just get the same brand bearing for my block then sending it out for the marginal difference it would make. Hopefully they'll be here this week so this bottom end can finally get buttoned up!
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Started doing the measurements for my crank yesterday, main bearings are a little on the loose side but think I'll still run them with the higher rpms this engine will see
Doing the rod bearings today and hopefully closing the bottom end up after that!
Doing the rod bearings today and hopefully closing the bottom end up after that!
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Finally got some work done on the bottom end, seemed like I always went to work on it and realized I was missing something. Didn't have the right sized micrometers to measure the crank etc.
Well the crank is in! Torqued down per fsm with new Nissan bolts
Next on my plate is to check ring gap on the pistons and fire them home, then can close up the bottom end!
Speaking of pistons the forged CPs with eagle rods look pretty nice
Well the crank is in! Torqued down per fsm with new Nissan bolts
Next on my plate is to check ring gap on the pistons and fire them home, then can close up the bottom end!
Speaking of pistons the forged CPs with eagle rods look pretty nice
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
First two pistons are in! Piston to valve clearance might be interesting though lol
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
"interesting" is one way of looking at it.
well done.
well done.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Finally some major progress on the engine front, been away with work for the past 2 weeks so progress was at a standstill.
Will go about throwing the cams in tomorrow and checking the piston to valve clearance, fingers crossed it's good. If not that's a whole other can of worms
Will go about throwing the cams in tomorrow and checking the piston to valve clearance, fingers crossed it's good. If not that's a whole other can of worms
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
I thought the VE's needed mega valve reliefs in the pistons. I read VE pistons in DE alright DE pistons in VE valve hit? Maybe I'm just remembering things wrong. I never thought about how to engage the big cams to check clearance?
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Recommend claying to check piston to valve clearance. The JE Pistons used for my SRVE setup has large relief valves set up for N1 camshafts. Lock out the rockers to check secondary lobes for critical clearance
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- Posts: 300
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- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Well she's all good on the low end! Need to check high end now and if that's all good throw the pan on.
Not a terrible amount left to do engine wise, feels nice being able to see the light at the end of the tunnel... hopefully I didn't just jynx myself haha
Not a terrible amount left to do engine wise, feels nice being able to see the light at the end of the tunnel... hopefully I didn't just jynx myself haha
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Well high side she's good too! Not much room so definitely not getting the kelford cams I wanted with these pistons, maybe that's something I'll fix in the future if a cheap SR block pops up that I can throw some ridiculous sleeves in and some reliefed VE pistons.
Worked some more at skim coating the engine bay and could possibly be shooting primer in the near future, don't want to do that too soon though.
Also played around with another project for most of today
A Rb20 inline 6 in a 1990 240sx, previous owner had broke 3 exhaust studs off trying to take off the manifold and of course they were either flush with the head or up inside it. Ended up building up weld on the broken stud, welding a nut to that and then 2 out of the 3 came out pretty easy. 3rd one put up a good fight (#6 rear stud) but it eventually gave up haha
Worked some more at skim coating the engine bay and could possibly be shooting primer in the near future, don't want to do that too soon though.
Also played around with another project for most of today
A Rb20 inline 6 in a 1990 240sx, previous owner had broke 3 exhaust studs off trying to take off the manifold and of course they were either flush with the head or up inside it. Ended up building up weld on the broken stud, welding a nut to that and then 2 out of the 3 came out pretty easy. 3rd one put up a good fight (#6 rear stud) but it eventually gave up haha
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
Engine is pretty much finished up, few small pieces left but she should be in soon!
Love the look of that header too!
Love the look of that header too!
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
That looks good! Is that a custom or commercial header? I just picked up my Sr20DE. It came without the stock header so I need one that clears the steering box.
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- Posts: 300
- Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
- Location: Fredericton, NB
Re: 1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE
It's made by Profab and sold through McKinney. Not listed on their site have to call and ask for it, build time for mine was 7 or 8 weeks.