'69 510 - Lysholm Twin-Screw Project

[VelvetHammer]

Does anyone have access to a CMM machine? There are a few parts that would be handy to measure on one of those nifty machines.

Maybe these guys can help: http://accutechmeasurement.com/

or these guys: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggvzcGdZsTc

[510wizard]

Based on the above, I called Ermish today and had him get started on a U60 L20B head: General clean up, reconditioned rockers, lash caps, upgraded springs, valve job/ 44mm intake valves, angry cam, match port to my intake runners.

I'll pull the block apart myself (heck, I'm good at that), but I'll need to find a local LA machine shop to hot tank the block, clean up the bores, inspect the pistons and mic it all out. (I have a brand new dial bore gauge and micrometer set that's itching to be tried out, although I don't quite trust myself reading the thing correctly)

For cost savings I'll skip the torque plate treatment, and keep the stock rods, pistons and crank. I will however buy new bearings, rings and upgrade the rod bolts to ARP.

I'm trying to go the budget route, but is there anything else I should do while I'm in there?

It sounds like I'll need to source the appropriate front cover, timing chain, oil pump etc.

With my 40mm throttle bodies it'll run out of steam at about 6500 rpm. Sounds like a safe redline?

Deburr the inside of the block of all the casting flash, good DIY project. Do the same with the crank. Eye brow the top of the block, install ARP heads bolt studs. You might check on getting some Total Seal rings.

[VelvetHammer]

Deburr the inside of the block of all the casting flash, good DIY project. Do the same with the crank. Eye brow the top of the block, install ARP heads bolt studs. You might check on getting some Total Seal rings.

Sounds like a plan.

Would I be correct in assuming I'd use a die grinder for both jobs? I'll have to buy one, and I don't have a compressor, so it'll have to be electric.

Have any recommendations? Also, what bits should I buy for this endeavor?

[510rob]

I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

[defdes]

Cory, try LA Machine Shop on North side of Venice Blvd, about 2 blocks \West of Centinela. Gwan referred me to them and they have done a nice job for me, talk to Eric.

[510wizard]

I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

Prefect tools for the job at hand. Be sure to protect the machined surfaces with tape, such as duck tape. Do this in case of a slip with the grinder. Knock out the plugs at the ends out the main oil gallery and tread to use socket head pipe plugs. I also deburr all the sharp edges, so you won't cut yourself in the next step. After you get done with the deburring, get a bucket of hot water and mix some Tide with the water, then scrub the S.... out of the block. Use some bore brushes in all the oil galleries and all threaded holes.

[510rob]

if you are going to tap the block for NPT plugs at each end, you have to trim down the backside of one of the new NPT plugs (I think it was the front plug) so it doesn't block the feed passage leading down to the main journal saddle right beside that end plug.

Also, if you do tap it, cast iron is tapped dry (no lubricant), BUT BUT BUT!!! Don't put a steel plug into the hole without first putting a dab of anti-sieze or oil or grease onto the tapered plug; if you don't, the parts can gall themselves together quite easily and with very very little force (finger force can be enough)

[VelvetHammer]

Cory, try LA Machine Shop on North side of Venice Blvd, about 2 blocks \West of Centinela. Gwan referred me to them and they have done a nice job for me, talk to Eric.

Thanks John, you beat me to my next question.

[VelvetHammer]

I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

In my research there seems to be a lot of agreement that these can work pretty well together:

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-d ... ce=linking

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... ce=linking

I'm inclined to buy nicer tools, but then again I'm not really using them much. The thing needs to last 4-5 engines worth of this.

Is Eastwood where you buy your supplies?

[VelvetHammer]

if you are going to tap the block for NPT plugs at each end, you have to trim down the backside of one of the new NPT plugs (I think it was the front plug) so it doesn't block the feed passage leading down to the main journal saddle right beside that end plug.

Also, if you do tap it, cast iron is tapped dry (no lubricant), BUT BUT BUT!!! Don't put a steel plug into the hole without first putting a dab of anti-sieze or oil or grease onto the tapered plug; if you don't, the parts can gall themselves together quite easily and with very very little force (finger force can be enough)

What's the easiest / safest way to trim off the back side of an NTP plug? Pliers and disc sander, or will I end up losing my eyesight?

[VelvetHammer]

I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

Prefect tools for the job at hand. Be sure to protect the machined surfaces with tape, such as duck tape. Do this in case of a slip with the grinder. Knock out the plugs at the ends out the main oil gallery and tread to use socket head pipe plugs. I also deburr all the sharp edges, so you won't cut yourself in the next step. After you get done with the deburring, get a bucket of hot water and mix some Tide with the water, then scrub the S.... out of the block. Use some bore brushes in all the oil galleries and all threaded holes.

Ok, it looks like I now need to buy some bore brushes. Any idea what size taps I'll need? I have a rather massive tap and die kit (Craftsman), but it manages to be missing the ones I usually need at the time.

[VelvetHammer]

It's occurred to me I'm probably short on the correct tools to complete this job as guided above.
Here's the punch list:


Tools I need to buy for this engine build adventure:

Metal scribe (?)
Marking blue (Is that what it's called?)
Die grinder (http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-d ... ce=linking)
Router speed control? (http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... ce=linking)
Abrasive cartridges (http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html)
Carbide rotary burr bits (http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-8-Piece-Dou ... pd_cp_hi_1)
Engine brush kit (http://www.eastwood.com/engine-brush-kit-set-of-4.html)
Piston ring compressor (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-90A3400/)
Piston ring grinder (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-906795/)
Assymbly lube (https://deezperformance.com/synergyn-assembly-lube.html)
NPT Taps (?)
Face shield (?)
Number punch set for keeping track of main caps (?)



Tools I have for this engine build adventure:

Dial bore gauge (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900041/)
Magnetic base (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9849-Mag ... B0000DD0VA)
Dial Indicator stand (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66798/)
0-6" Micrometer Set (http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-0-6-Micro ... B0014HA45E)
Depth Micrometer Set (http://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Depth-Mic ... B001CTG1H4)
Digital Calipers (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900001/)
Cylinder Head CC Kit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-911581/)


Engine parts to buy:

New freeze plug set
Engine gasket kit
Timing chain kit
ARP head bolt kit
ARP stud kit (necessary?)
ARP rod bolts
Total Seal Piston Rings
Main and Rod Bearings


Work that needs to be done:

Disassembly of block
Deburr casting flash from block and crank
Cut water passage holes to match head and gasket
Drill dipstick hole/ plug old one
Wash block (should I hot tank?)
Replace oil plugs with NTP plugs (reduce depth of front plug?)
Paint block
Replace freeze plugs
Hone bores and measure
Hone main caps and measure
Fit/ install ARP rob bolts, Hone rod ends (?), and measure
Inspect pistons/ skirts for collapse, clean and measure
Clean up crank, balance (?), polish journals (?), and measure
Assembly

My cheap "quick-fix" engine seems to have just gotten more expensive...

Any other tools, parts or work that I am missing??

Thanks for all the generous help and advice, I'm pretty nervous/ excited to do this a lot of this myself.
(And by "myself" I mean with your help)

Cory

[two_68_510s]

Hey man, I am around he same stage engine wise, slightly different set of tasks, but it is nice to have a ready made check list! Thanks. (I would tank the block.)

[rnorrish]

It's occurred to me I'm probably short on the correct tools to complete this job as guided above.
Here's the punch list:


Tools I need to buy for this engine build adventure:
Number punch set for keeping track of main bearing caps

All you need is a center punch for things like this. Just think 'dice'. One dot, two dots, etc.
Same trick works for remembering which way something goes back together i.e. rod caps that can go on either way. Mark the rod and cap, and on the same side.

[510wizard]

I have one of these --> http://www.dewalt.com/tools/metalworkin ... dw887.aspx

I like it better than my air die grinder, which sucks by comparison.

abrasive cartridge rolls are great to have for a die grinder!

http://www.3m.com/product/information/A ... Rolls.html

http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html

In my research there seems to be a lot of agreement that these can work pretty well together:

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-d ... ce=linking

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-spe ... ce=linking

I'm inclined to buy nicer tools, but then again I'm not really using them much. The thing needs to last 4-5 engines worth of this.

Is Eastwood where you buy your supplies?

You don't need the speed control. You can get the rolls and the mandels for the rolls at Enco, much better price than Eastwood. http://www.use-enco.com/ ,I can get you a free shipping coupon in the near future, the March codes aren't out yet.