The 510 Realm

Keith the stock t25 is a journal bearing turbo. The ones I have seen die are from the bearing going out. First you get a little shaft play then you start leaking oil and if you keep driving it the turbine start hitting the side of the housing. at least that's what I've seen on two of my buddies t25 so far. one was running 15 pounds and the other was running 17

My wife had an '05 Legacy Wagon, built on the WRX platform. Turbo was fed thru a small banjo bolt from the motor. Unbeknownst to us until internet research after, this banjo bolt was very small and prone to failure (clog). When it did, the turbo blew up and was sucked into the motor causing total failure. Guess this is why you don't see many of these cars around...it was nice while it lasted.

Hmmmm..just seems kinda weird to me. Maybe that does say something about the quality of the turbos.

My old Schwitzer based turbo has spun huge miles now, with a good chunk of them at solo and Road race stuff.
To me, if the oil pressure is correct, then that should eliminate any wear in the shaft, other than due to huge miles. If the balance is bad right off, then I could see that causing some touch down somewhere, which would then take out compressor or turbine or both sections.

Are they maybe not letting the turbo cool down properly before shut down? I use to let my engine idle for a few minutes..shut off..let sit with my fan blowing cool air over it, then re-fire for a minute. This both put fresh oil through the turbo bearing and of course cooler water from the rad through the motor.

I never coked a bearing nor had any bearing issues at all over the life of my turbo. If they are being over-sped, then I can't comment on that, as that is outside my realm of experience.

Worked on my center console that has been going for over a year! Almost done but looking good

nice flow to the design kid. Looks good

All painted and ready to drop back in. Shift boot will be installed and gauges in the next few nights.

No cup holders?!!!


I like the console.

Mattndew76 wrote:No cup holders?!!!


I like the console.

Its an automatic hahaha thats what the one in the center is for!

Thanks

Kid,
Looks good but what happened to the wood one you were working on?

Need a shift boot? I still have the sewing machine.

BP

Bike papa wrote:Kid,
Looks good but what happened to the wood one you were working on?

Need a shift boot? I still have the sewing machine.

BP

The wood never worked out the way I wanted it too. I think it was the other Joel that mentioned that over time it would flex back and that is excatly what it did.

I actually have a boot coming from Summit today with a rubber flexable type boot. I had my wife sew together a boot from the same material the console is wrapped in if I did not like the rubber style....Thanks though

I need to come by and grab that back shelf piece from you.

So I installed my center console with the gauges and took the car for a test drive to see what the boost and afr were at. What I noticed was that the boost is drastically down from what it was tuned at. It would spike to 14 but drop back down and bounce between 10-11. The AFR at WOT was in the mid to low 10's. From my research that is too rich and I want to be around 11.2-11.5. So I'm going to increase the boost a tad to around 12.5 to see if I can get it to get in that range. I would assume its running too rich based on the tune dumping more fuel to accommodate for the 15lbs of boost it was tuned at.

Depending on how LONG you are are WOT, and the fuel you are using, maybe just being in the 10's is not a bad thing. Mine dips into the 10's when full on WOT over time. I more or less cruise in the 12's,
with the 11's on short sprints.

If you can, within reason, do a hard pull at WOT, and then kill the engine and just look at the plug colour.

Our philosophy has been that better to be a tad rich, than melt the thing down trying for the perfect mathematical F/A.

That reading was done on a few quick pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear on a road close to the house. So your saying to check the actually spark plug and see what it looks like?

Yes, do an actual plug check, just to see what the porcelain is doing at high temperatures.

this can sometimes be the real world indicator, one of the things at any rate.

If they are not real black, and, your really only at WOT throttle for a very short time, being a a hair rich is only just safety.

Think about the course you are on, where you are going through the gears, and each shift has a cool down component to it, how long is WOT really going on in top gear. If not a long time, over time, then you might want to cut back from the 10's.

I must admit, for me, my car was set up for hill climbing, both competitively and on our drives, so WOT throttle would be there for a LONG time. One of our mountain climbs would have me WOT for over a minute..think about that...count to 60...that is a long time and heat builds in the combustion chamber, that you cannot imagine. I would see exhaust temps approaching 1,500 - 1,700 F...aluminum melts at 1220F.

I guess I am saying just look at all parameters, and be on the safe side for the happiness of your motor. I have 12 + years on this motor now and it has seen some pretty extreme pulls on our mountain highways, so being a hair rich has not been a bad thing for me.

this is a picture of my BP9ES plug, which is a colder plug in the scheme of things. Yours may not look like this, as I run a very clean burning fuel. what you can see is that it is just nicely coloured on the electrode tip, with the porcelain just starting to look like it was getting pretty hot, but, NOT glazed. You want to look down into the plug, to also see what the base of the porcelain looks like, this is called the "fire ring".

Do the plugs need to be new to really determine where they are at? Or can I just check them before, take note, then do a pull and check them after and see the difference?