Shawn’s ‘72 Driver

[Byron510]

So I had a bit of a "masking malfunction" here. Somehow on the pass side I got a bit of primer on my newly painted door jams - anyone have a suggestion for removing this on fresh paint?

I'm not too concerned, it may even polish off! If there are any body guys out there, maybe you could lend me a tip on this one.

Thanks, Byron

[James]

I would imagine it would polish off. Too bad the finish didn;t have a lot of time to harden.
This build is making me so jealous......

[Byron510]

Put in another day on the car, and progressed forward (and backwards) a little more
I started the day by mixing up some two part epoxy to brush on the back side of the fenders, and inside the front and rear fender wells. It’s actually a marine coating I think, but it’s a tough finish and fairly easy to work with. More product that was kicking around from past projects – the stuff was used on dads 53 custom sedan.

The rear fender lips had been rolled by some P.O., and my concern is that water could very easily be trapped in this fender lip and not be easily washed out. So I really wanted to get something in there, the car will get wet in its life, that’s unavoidable here in Vancouver.

Once this step was done, and a good mess was made of the floor, I spent the rest of the day sanding. I started blocking out the roof with 400 grit and the long board. Sanding flat all the areas in behind the drip rail, and around the front and rear windows. It was during this step that I went backwards. Since the car is on jack stands, I was standing on the front door jam to sand the roof, and scratched that jam pretty good. Man was I upset. I think the trip will cover most of it, but what bummer – I just painted this area last weekend, but I guess the combination of fresh paint and grit on my shoes didn’t mix. Damn!

Anyways, progress photos.

[Byron510]

A few more....

[510rob]

Sounds like you need one of those hoverboards from Back to the Future!

The car is going to be rad when finished. I'd say that Shawn has a pretty nice brother.

[Byron510]

Sounds like you need one of those hoverboards from Back to the Future!

The car is going to be rad when finished. I'd say that Shawn has a pretty nice brother.

Thanks Rob,
Shawn is pretty appreciative. And it'll be even better when he gets to join our events with us. I look forward tot he day he gets to drive it. With the Panasports, it'll look pretty darn good in this colour. Can't wait to see it myself!

Byron

[Three B's Racing]

So I had a bit of a "masking malfunction" here. Somehow on the pass side I got a bit of primer on my newly painted door jams - anyone have a suggestion for removing this on fresh paint?

I'm not too concerned, it may even polish off! If there are any body guys out there, maybe you could lend me a tip on this one.

Thanks, Byron

The primer should easily come off with 800 wet&dry paper. Then you can just polish up that area by hand. If the paint was nice and dry then the primer shouldn't have much tack to that new smooth surface unless it's etching primer.

[Byron510]

So I had a bit of a "masking malfunction" here. Somehow on the pass side I got a bit of primer on my newly painted door jams - anyone have a suggestion for removing this on fresh paint?

I'm not too concerned, it may even polish off! If there are any body guys out there, maybe you could lend me a tip on this one.

Thanks, Byron

The primer should easily come off with 800 wet&dry paper. Then you can just polish up that area by hand. If the paint was nice and dry then the primer shouldn't have much tack to that new smooth surface unless it's etching primer.

Thanks Three B’s,

The first coat was DP-40, then the subsequent coats were K38 high build (All PPG products). The DP-40 is a primer/sealer, and I believe does have some etching properties.
I’ll try to wet send this off after the whole paint job is done, thanks for your help.

Byron

[Three B's Racing]

So I had a bit of a "masking malfunction" here. Somehow on the pass side I got a bit of primer on my newly painted door jams - anyone have a suggestion for removing this on fresh paint?

I'm not too concerned, it may even polish off! If there are any body guys out there, maybe you could lend me a tip on this one.

Thanks, Byron

The primer should easily come off with 800 wet&dry paper. Then you can just polish up that area by hand. If the paint was nice and dry then the primer shouldn't have much tack to that new smooth surface unless it's etching primer.

Thanks Three B’s,

The first coat was DP-40, then the subsequent coats were K38 high build (All PPG products). The DP-40 is a primer/sealer, and I believe does have some etching properties.
I’ll try to wet send this off after the whole paint job is done, thanks for your help.

Byron

Hmm ya that DP-40 will etch but still because it is a smooth surface it should sand right off.

Good Luck and keep us informed.

[two_68_510s]

Something incredibly tasty about a shell with fresh paint.
Do you think I need professional help??

[okayfine]

Do you think I need professional help??

I know I don't have the knowledge or skill to do what Byron has done, so I'd also need professional help

[Byron510]

Thanks for the comments guys; onward and upward!

I took this week off, as I was reminded at work last week that I did not take my vacation time again this year, and I was going to get paid out for it (and taxed to the 9’s) – so I took the time because I really could use it.
So what better way to spend you vacation time, than to work on your brothers car!

Progress to day was slower than expected, but still going the right way.
I started the day by assembling the front panels FOR THE LAST TIME – YEAAAAHHH!
I put in old crappy bolts, these will be replaced by factory bolts after paint in complete (just ordered a box of 50; $2 each – ouch!).
It’s great to see the car together again.
I did notice that the hood didn’t line up – yet I pre fit all of the panels before the primer/paint on bottom side. I was quite baffles by this, and it took me a couple of hours to figure it out. I think my mistake was that after I aligned the front panels, I then flipped the hood over and set it flat, supported longitudinally, on two saw horses. I then re-glued the bottom support frame, and continued to prime and paint the hood when I did the door jambs and under the hood area. The mistake – flipping the hood over effectively flattened it out under it own weight – then I glued the frame support to the top panel – it then stayed flatter! Damn!! Things you learn on projects like this. It actually changed the hood quite a bit, so little more tweeking; I really didn’t want to touch my nicely painted hinge bolts….
Then I continued blocking until 7:30 tonight; found a previously unspotted dent right behind the gas filler door. Now I guess I’ll be doing some more priming before the final paint – damn again! Another step I was hoping to avoid.

For you paint guys, could I spray on some reduced DP-40 on the areas that I break thought the primer, and then continue on strain to paint without sanding – or would this be a bad idea?

Anyway – here are some photos of the day to keep the thread moving.

[Byron510]

While going through the boxes of “stuff”, Shawn and I realized that I didn’t paint the hood rod support. I also dug out a manky old gas door – but it’s better than the screwed one that was on the car – someone took a pry bar to the door to pry it open at some point – bent the hell out of it. This new one might have had a couple different colours on it, but the hinge was good, and it’s strait!
After a good blasting in the ceramic cabinet – she’s good to go for paint, as is the hood support bracket.

[Byron510]

OK Baz, if you are reading this – I would now like to thank you very much for suggesting these little adjusters – I definitely needed them! Thanks again for throwing them in the box ‘O’ stuff that you send my way.
Here’s the progress on the hood (aside from the above mentioned alignment issue) Even with the hood bumpers installed, the hood was too low. So I installed the height adjusters that Baz had recommended when I bought the rubber kit for the car. I picked the double thick area right at the back of the support as it seamed to bet the best compromise. I would have liked them to be more forward, but there’s no rad support to support the adjusters! So I put them here.
Shawn couldn’t bear me drilling a hole into his new paint – so he left at this point
I do think it turned out good, though, see photos.

[Byron510]

So, I leaned a bit more about hood adjustment today as well. Maybe some of you have been here before, but I can’t for the life of me figure out why I’d not previously noticed this height adjustment at the hood latch.
The hood was latching too high, and not loading itself against the adjusters that I had installed. So I started spacing the catch lower with washers, when I then noticed that there was a slot in the bottom of the pin. Now why would there be a slot – it must have a reason. Upon closer inspection I could see that the pin was threaded, and had a nice 17mm lock nut – BINGO. What the heck was I doing spacing the catch down, when I could wind the pin up. Man it was easy, but I can’t believe that after having owned so many 510’s (more than 25 drivers) that I’ve never had to play with this adjustment over the years! Live and learn – and be humble

Byron