Jeff's '70 2 Door

View and post your 510 project(s)
User avatar
icehouse
Posts: 3382
Joined: 17 Jul 2005 17:06
Location: Everett Wa

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 25 Feb 2019 21:12

What does re-corked mean?
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 25 Feb 2019 21:20

Harry, thanks for the tips. I just went through your build to see what you meant by re-corking the body lines on the door...well that scared the pants off me! It's way above my pay grade but I will give it a try on my unusable door and see how it goes. Mate, your work is unbelievable. So many of the same things that I am dealing with but it makes mine look like the kindergarten class got let loose with power tools (closer to the truth than I like to admit).

I have already welded the panels in place. I tried to pull both quarters in to the trunk lid as much as I could. I have a replacement trunk lid, will clean it up and post pics of how it turned out.

I threw the rear bumper on today to see how it fit. The side brackets line up with the holes in the panel but there are some significant gaps. The bumper is rough with some nasty fiberglass repairs. Will find something better/ get a new one and take a closer look at how Harry fitted his..perfectly.

Image

Image

Image

Image

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 25 Feb 2019 21:26


harryagain
Supporter
Posts: 278
Joined: 06 Apr 2008 04:16
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by harryagain » 26 Feb 2019 02:51

Hi again Jeff,

I used the new aftermarket one piece bumpers. They are effectively too straight through the main body of the bumper. I’m not sure if I explained back on my thread, but I cheated a little. I cut the brackets down, around 10mm from memory and rewelded. Then offered up to the car, I obviously took to much out, so I spaced it out with washers. In the end. It actually gives you more flexibility on how the bumpers sits, which I think is a good thing. I need to go update my build thread, lots to share like a good soapy!
My cars
1971 Datsun 510 2Dr
1971 Datsun 1600 4dr - FJ20
VW Golf

My 2dr Build
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27563

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 08 Mar 2019 22:15

One of the differences between the original rear quarter and the new panels is the angle of the edge of the trunk.

Image

When I had everything screwed together, I figured it was as close as i was going to get it. Then I welded it, the corner sucked in and it got worse, especially on the passenger side.

Image

Image

Image

After a series of bigger hammers I decided to try a porta power set. I cut a couple of welds in the corner (on the passenger side) and after a few tentative pushes, I have it much closer to where it should be. The drivers side isn't too bad. I will give the passenger side another try but it will end up with some filler to get it right.

Image

Image

Its tempting to give the corners of the trunklid a bit of a tap with a mallet.

Image

Image

Otherwise, its starting to clean up ok. There are small gaps at the bottom corner of each tail light panel that need to be filled.

Image

Image

I will wait until I put the car on the rotisserie to fix the mis-match in the wheel house. The gap is about 10mm.

Image

There were holes at the bottom corners of the rear windshield that needed to be patched.

Image

Image

For a change of scenery, I finished putting together the front struts. Uncut 280ZX struts. Media blasted, fitted with T3 coilovers and camber plates, 7" 300lb springs and Koni 8611 double adjustable shocks. (I know, kinda dumb given how much of a pain they will be to adjust...but I figure once they are done..) Struts have about a 3/4" spacer at the bottom of the tube.

Image

Image

Image

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 14 Mar 2019 20:51

Trunk latch mount transplanted from the old tail light panel.

Image

Installed a battery box. Thanks 66DUCE for the design.

Image

Image

Image

Decided it was time to give my back a break and flip the car over.

Image

Image

Image

I used a Jackall at each end to lift the car. My original plan was to leave the jacks on the floor bur there was too much movement :shock: and the collars started binding on the post, so I jacked off the frame. I will add a bracket to give the base of the jack more support.

I looked for info/ images on where to put the pivot point but didn't find anything definitive. I found a few images of braces straight across the bumper mounts. I figured my car would be a bit more top heavy with the cage. Through laziness, I only moved the pivot up about 4 inches from level with the bumper mounts. Turns out that this set up is fairly top heavy; manageable by one person...just. I made the base fairly wide, so it feels stable. I'm guessing the COM is at least another 6 inches higher than I have it.

Plan for now is to finish the last small patches, and a ton of small things, clean up under the car and get to paint underneath and engine bay.

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 24 Apr 2019 22:05

I've been working on the car fairly consistently over the last month but it seems like slow going. I have been trying to finish any welding that effects the floor or engine bay as I want to get them in paint before I get too busy this summer. Most of what I have done is finishing small stuff, patching a few more rust spots, getting the rear wheel houses sorted and stripping the bottom of the car....what an evil job. I did get a quote from a mobile media blasting guy. He was set up with a variety of media but I figured it was a bit too expensive. In hindsight, maybe it wasn't a bad deal.

Finished the last bits of the cage
Image

The shifter hole looked like it was extended with a can opener. Thought I would fill it in and start fresh.
Image

Under the car is mostly stripped. I will drag it outside and hit the corners and hard to reach bits with my crappy little sand blaster. The rest I will sand to get rid of any rust before paint.

Image

My plan is to paint under the car and engine bay so that I can get it rolling again. I have a friend who has access to a paint booth for the interior and exterior.

It seems like there are endless opinions on how to go about painting. My current thought for under car and engine bay is epoxy primer (mostly because I already have some), seam sealer, filler as needed (a couple of spots in the engine bay) and another coat of epoxy before paint. Sound right? Any suggestions on undercoat?

I picked up a set of new/ never used Sparco seats. They came with Planted s2000 base plates and side brackets. Getting rid of the base plates if anyone wants them. The original braces that run between the tunnel and sills are too far gone to re-use. I installed a couple of cross bars. I'm thinking of tying them into the floor to recreate the bracing of the original. Necessary?

Image


I wasted a fair bit of time sitting in these and day dreaming. Plastic bags are for dirty coveralls, not because I was that excited.
Image

When I built the cage, I spent a bunch of time figuring out the ideal location for the dash bar so that I could run stock instruments and a stock heater. I guess I wasn't too concerned about steering.

Image

User avatar
66DUCE
Posts: 190
Joined: 02 Jun 2012 20:12
Location: Maple Ridge, B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by 66DUCE » 25 Apr 2019 20:22

slowerthantime wrote:
14 Mar 2019 20:51
Trunk latch mount transplanted from the old tail light panel.

Image

Installed a battery box. Thanks 66DUCE for the design.
Nice work! I cannot take full credit as this has been done by a number of others before me.
Image

Image

Image

Decided it was time to give my back a break and flip the car over.

Image

Image

Image

I used a Jackall at each end to lift the car. My original plan was to leave the jacks on the floor bur there was too much movement :shock: and the collars started binding on the post, so I jacked off the frame. I will add a bracket to give the base of the jack more support.

I looked for info/ images on where to put the pivot point but didn't find anything definitive. I found a few images of braces straight across the bumper mounts. I figured my car would be a bit more top heavy with the cage. Through laziness, I only moved the pivot up about 4 inches from level with the bumper mounts. Turns out that this set up is fairly top heavy; manageable by one person...just. I made the base fairly wide, so it feels stable. I'm guessing the COM is at least another 6 inches higher than I have it.

Plan for now is to finish the last small patches, and a ton of small things, clean up under the car and get to paint underneath and engine bay.

User avatar
66DUCE
Posts: 190
Joined: 02 Jun 2012 20:12
Location: Maple Ridge, B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by 66DUCE » 25 Apr 2019 20:32

slowerthantime wrote:
24 Apr 2019 22:05
I've been working on the car fairly consistently over the last month but it seems like slow going. I have been trying to finish any welding that effects the floor or engine bay as I want to get them in paint before I get too busy this summer. Most of what I have done is finishing small stuff, patching a few more rust spots, getting the rear wheel houses sorted and stripping the bottom of the car....what an evil job. I did get a quote from a mobile media blasting guy. He was set up with a variety of media but I figured it was a bit too expensive. In hindsight, maybe it wasn't a bad deal.

Finished the last bits of the cage
Image

The shifter hole looked like it was extended with a can opener. Thought I would fill it in and start fresh.
Image

Under the car is mostly stripped. I will drag it outside and hit the corners and hard to reach bits with my crappy little sand blaster. The rest I will sand to get rid of any rust before paint.

Image

My plan is to paint under the car and engine bay so that I can get it rolling again. I have a friend who has access to a paint booth for the interior and exterior.

It seems like there are endless opinions on how to go about painting. My current thought for under car and engine bay is epoxy primer (mostly because I already have some), seam sealer, filler as needed (a couple of spots in the engine bay) and another coat of epoxy before paint. Sound right? Any suggestions on undercoat?

I picked up a set of new/ never used Sparco seats. They came with Planted s2000 base plates and side brackets. Getting rid of the base plates if anyone wants them. The original braces that run between the tunnel and sills are too far gone to re-use. I installed a couple of cross bars. I'm thinking of tying them into the floor to recreate the bracing of the original. Necessary?

Image


I wasted a fair bit of time sitting in these and day dreaming. Plastic bags are for dirty coveralls, not because I was that excited.
Image

When I built the cage, I spent a bunch of time figuring out the ideal location for the dash bar so that I could run stock instruments and a stock heater. I guess I wasn't too concerned about steering.

Image
Nice work on the rotisserie. I don't know how I would have gotten as far this fast on my undercarriage without a rotisserie. I have purchased truck bed liner (my painter recommended) to do my undercarriage/wheel wells. I am so close to being ready to spray it but sometimes life gets in the way.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 12198
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by Byron510 » 26 Apr 2019 00:35

I made the ‘X’ a removable piece in my cage on the Bronze project. I’ve worked over far too many cages in my time. I researched an FIA/SCCA removable joint to keep the cage class legal. I rarely Ron with the door bars installed while driving on the street - it’s a track day only addition in reality.
But in doing so, I built the cage with a permanent bar tying the A pillar base to the base of the main hoop. This ads significant torsional strength to the chassis, and gave a good place to mount the square tube that would mount the seat.

And this leads to another design flaw that I do often see. Cages built before the seat is mounted. I can never figure out why this is done. The drivers final position in the car is the most important, therefor the seating position is set first - than placement of the cage and other items follow. In this way there is no chance of needing to work around and obstruction- especially the door X where clearance for your elbows is mandatory throughout the range of motion. This may not be the case here, but I’ve seen some crazy things overlooked on builds.

Here are a couple of the cage coming together and the seat mount.
In this case I wanted the seat as close to the floor as possible, but raised up the front to get proper support under my thighs -hence why the rear seat mount is directly on the floor. This is a departure from my isuzal design where two bars are welded between the ‘rocker’ cage bar and the tunnel.
Another reason why I like this design is the in a significant side impact, the bar with help the seat from collapsing and crushing the occupant. I have dealt with a lot of rally cars - this is a design feature.

Byron
Attachments
16881819-4FE2-4BC1-BAB2-867998693B7B.jpeg
16881819-4FE2-4BC1-BAB2-867998693B7B.jpeg (62.98 KiB) Viewed 445 times
B63152E1-6144-476D-8C66-167D2EEF579E.jpeg
B63152E1-6144-476D-8C66-167D2EEF579E.jpeg (61.81 KiB) Viewed 445 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 26 Apr 2019 09:05

66Duce, yeah, the rotisserie has been a game changer.I can't imagine doing this under the car. Nice work on your project. It seems like we are working in lot of the same areas.

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 26 Apr 2019 09:50

Thanks for the feedback Byron.

I hear you on driver position/seat placement. While I didn't have the seats when I fabricated the cage, I knew what I was going to use and was able to figure the dimensions into my design. I also referenced your cage build (a lot, thank you) and did consider a horizontal lower bar and removable door bars. In the end, I opted for fixed bars. I'm happy with the location of the bars in relation to the seat/ driver. From looking at your pics, my top rear tube attaches to the main hoop at an almost identical height to yours and looks like runs very slightly steeper to the front due to mine having a lower front mounting point, I am aware that these bars are a PITA for access, so my top tube at the front is set a bit lower than yours...it looks like 1 1/2" ish. Anyway, I figured that if they really drive me mad then the solution is just a cutting wheel away.

I like the idea of attaching the seat mount bars to the horizontal sill bars, it makes sense. I will take a look and see if I have space to fit one under the door bar joints.
Byron510 wrote:
26 Apr 2019 00:35
I made the ‘X’ a removable piece in my cage on the Bronze project. I’ve worked over far too many cages in my time. I researched an FIA/SCCA removable joint to keep the cage class legal. I rarely Ron with the door bars installed while driving on the street - it’s a track day only addition in reality.
But in doing so, I built the cage with a permanent bar tying the A pillar base to the base of the main hoop. This ads significant torsional strength to the chassis, and gave a good place to mount the square tube that would mount the seat.

And this leads to another design flaw that I do often see. Cages built before the seat is mounted. I can never figure out why this is done. The drivers final position in the car is the most important, therefor the seating position is set first - than placement of the cage and other items follow. In this way there is no chance of needing to work around and obstruction- especially the door X where clearance for your elbows is mandatory throughout the range of motion. This may not be the case here, but I’ve seen some crazy things overlooked on builds.

Here are a couple of the cage coming together and the seat mount.
In this case I wanted the seat as close to the floor as possible, but raised up the front to get proper support under my thighs -hence why the rear seat mount is directly on the floor. This is a departure from my isuzal design where two bars are welded between the ‘rocker’ cage bar and the tunnel.
Another reason why I like this design is the in a significant side impact, the bar with help the seat from collapsing and crushing the occupant. I have dealt with a lot of rally cars - this is a design feature.

Byron

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 14 May 2019 19:39

Its been one step forward and two steps back since my last post. I have been stripping the under body and engine bay and trying to finish up any metal repairs along the way before I get into paint prep. The more I strip, the more rust I find.

This one was in the rear drivers wheel arch/ shock tower, just below the fuel tank mount..

Image

Image

Image

Image

I knew I had to repair this
Image

Image

Image

While I was going that, I found this hiding above the headlight hole.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I tried a sample of the original colour, Datsun/ Nissan Blue 567 from Lordco. You can see original paint under the flaked off re-spray to the right of my test piece. I think it will work.

Image

User avatar
eastbaysolo_73
Supporter
Posts: 375
Joined: 18 May 2014 09:28
Location: Northern California

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by eastbaysolo_73 » 15 May 2019 10:13

Wow great work!! Keep it up!
1970 2 door sr20det cookie cutter build
Nor Cal Meng !

slowerthantime
Supporter
Posts: 76
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 19 Jun 2019 21:27

Life, kids, work have slowed my progress to a crawl, although I will be back at it soon enough.

Got the seat and harness mounts sorted with a bit of help from one of my crash test dummies
Image

Made patches to cover the rocker opening in the rear wheel arch...forgot the repaired pics.
Image

Image

Found another rust hole in the rear passenger wheel house. The layered metal in these cars is deadly for rust. The more you look the more you find.
Image

Image

My old Frankenstein air compressor started making the death rattle. After putting it off for years, I bought a decent compressor and plumbed in a drying sytem. It works well in the hot weather but could be better. Next step is to add a transmission cooler between the pump and the tank (got the idea from a Youtuber). Anyway, its cheaper than an air dryer.
Image

I was planning to go with the original paint, Nissan/ Datsun Blue but I'm hooked on 1974 Porsche Mexico Blue.
Image

Post Reply