Jeff's '70 2 Door

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icehouse
Posts: 3336
Joined: 17 Jul 2005 17:06
Location: Everett Wa

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 25 Feb 2019 21:12

What does re-corked mean?
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
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Posts: 63
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 25 Feb 2019 21:20

Harry, thanks for the tips. I just went through your build to see what you meant by re-corking the body lines on the door...well that scared the pants off me! It's way above my pay grade but I will give it a try on my unusable door and see how it goes. Mate, your work is unbelievable. So many of the same things that I am dealing with but it makes mine look like the kindergarten class got let loose with power tools (closer to the truth than I like to admit).

I have already welded the panels in place. I tried to pull both quarters in to the trunk lid as much as I could. I have a replacement trunk lid, will clean it up and post pics of how it turned out.

I threw the rear bumper on today to see how it fit. The side brackets line up with the holes in the panel but there are some significant gaps. The bumper is rough with some nasty fiberglass repairs. Will find something better/ get a new one and take a closer look at how Harry fitted his..perfectly.

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slowerthantime
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Posts: 63
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Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 25 Feb 2019 21:26


harryagain
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Joined: 06 Apr 2008 04:16
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by harryagain » 26 Feb 2019 02:51

Hi again Jeff,

I used the new aftermarket one piece bumpers. They are effectively too straight through the main body of the bumper. I’m not sure if I explained back on my thread, but I cheated a little. I cut the brackets down, around 10mm from memory and rewelded. Then offered up to the car, I obviously took to much out, so I spaced it out with washers. In the end. It actually gives you more flexibility on how the bumpers sits, which I think is a good thing. I need to go update my build thread, lots to share like a good soapy!
My cars
1971 Datsun 510 2Dr
1971 Datsun 1600 4dr - FJ20
VW Golf

My 2dr Build
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27563

slowerthantime
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Posts: 63
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 08 Mar 2019 22:15

One of the differences between the original rear quarter and the new panels is the angle of the edge of the trunk.

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When I had everything screwed together, I figured it was as close as i was going to get it. Then I welded it, the corner sucked in and it got worse, especially on the passenger side.

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After a series of bigger hammers I decided to try a porta power set. I cut a couple of welds in the corner (on the passenger side) and after a few tentative pushes, I have it much closer to where it should be. The drivers side isn't too bad. I will give the passenger side another try but it will end up with some filler to get it right.

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Its tempting to give the corners of the trunklid a bit of a tap with a mallet.

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Otherwise, its starting to clean up ok. There are small gaps at the bottom corner of each tail light panel that need to be filled.

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I will wait until I put the car on the rotisserie to fix the mis-match in the wheel house. The gap is about 10mm.

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There were holes at the bottom corners of the rear windshield that needed to be patched.

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For a change of scenery, I finished putting together the front struts. Uncut 280ZX struts. Media blasted, fitted with T3 coilovers and camber plates, 7" 300lb springs and Koni 8611 double adjustable shocks. (I know, kinda dumb given how much of a pain they will be to adjust...but I figure once they are done..) Struts have about a 3/4" spacer at the bottom of the tube.

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slowerthantime
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Posts: 63
Joined: 06 Mar 2017 19:47
Location: Summerland B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 14 Mar 2019 20:51

Trunk latch mount transplanted from the old tail light panel.

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Installed a battery box. Thanks 66DUCE for the design.

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Decided it was time to give my back a break and flip the car over.

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I used a Jackall at each end to lift the car. My original plan was to leave the jacks on the floor bur there was too much movement :shock: and the collars started binding on the post, so I jacked off the frame. I will add a bracket to give the base of the jack more support.

I looked for info/ images on where to put the pivot point but didn't find anything definitive. I found a few images of braces straight across the bumper mounts. I figured my car would be a bit more top heavy with the cage. Through laziness, I only moved the pivot up about 4 inches from level with the bumper mounts. Turns out that this set up is fairly top heavy; manageable by one person...just. I made the base fairly wide, so it feels stable. I'm guessing the COM is at least another 6 inches higher than I have it.

Plan for now is to finish the last small patches, and a ton of small things, clean up under the car and get to paint underneath and engine bay.

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