rear crossmember removal questions

Suspension, including wheel, tire and brake.
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bertvorgon
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by bertvorgon »

I would suggest that the RED RYDER GABRIEL shocks are maybe better for a stock 510.

The KONI shocks, at least back when they were just a straight bolt on, on a 510, had very bad rebound characteristics, especially the single adjustable ones ( non-racing).
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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RMS
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by RMS »

for the rear on the cheep I would grab some kybs off a crv from the junker. not the best as Bert mentioned but its hard to find a modern shock that doesn't push up if your lucky you may still have the stock oil filled struts still in the car witch can be rebuilt with a new O ring and some motorcycle strut oil. 10w will do but I like it a little over damped and run 20w with my sentra rear spring on the front of my dime. there are many springs from a multitude of different vehicles. if you do a search there is a list posted by Jason. failing to find a 88-89 sentra fast back in the wrecker you may want to consider a subaru loyale/ dl /gl front spring in the front of your dime but it is a little taller than the sentra rear spring. interesting to note that subaru guys upgrade to a slightly lower variable rate front spring from a 90s(?) ford taurus but I haven't tried.

good to hear you have bolts on both rear Aarms.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
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bertvorgon
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by bertvorgon »

Robyn has great advice on spring options, he is more up to speed on all the alternate choices for kind of a stock application.

You may luck out that the stock FRONT shock is still there and you can just change the oil. I too ran both 20W and 30W Motorcycle Fork oil, 20W being the best for "street" use.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
farmer_fred
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by farmer_fred »

No, the front struts have some sort of insert in them. KYB I think, from back in the 90s. They still make such things?

In our basement stash I found a pair of rear Konis that seem to be usable, but it sounds like the Red Ryders might be better.
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by farmer_fred »

So we got the diff back in and I now want to try swapping the rear springs for the Dodge D50 parts suggested. Any specific year or engine package I should specify in looking for springs?

Thanks!
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RMS
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by RMS »

I believe there is only one spring for the range
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
farmer_fred
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by farmer_fred »

Thanks, would these guys work? Any coils need to be lopped off?

They all say "heavy duty". Do I care?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dod ... pring,7512
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RMS
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Re: rear crossmember removal questions

Post by RMS »

I've only used, used springs but had a report that the new springs squeak a bit but that would likely stop once worked in a bit
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
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