Brake and fuel line flare type.

Suspension, including wheel, tire and brake.
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silva510
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Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by silva510 » 26 Sep 2018 17:01

My apologizes in advance if this subject has been covered many times. I would like to know what flaring type is used for brake lines and fuel lines. I'll be using 280 disc brakes in front and I believe 240 disc in rear. Engine is ka24e. Iso double flare for brakes and inverted double flare for fuel?

Other question is do I use m10x1 fittings for 3/16" brake line.? Which fittings for 3/8" fuel line I'll be using?

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Byron510
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Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by Byron510 » 27 Sep 2018 07:04

I can’t advise on the fuel lines, but the Nissan brake lines are inverted double flare and yes the thread pitch is M10x1.
I found when doing my system that the quality of the bulk fittings was much poorer than the quality of fittings found on pre made lines. I ended up buying the shortest pre made lines just to scavenge the fittings.
Also, invest in a high quality coating tool. I spent a fortune on my hydraulic tool, but after fighting with an inferior tool for many years, I haven’t looked back.

Post up your results.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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Dave Patten
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Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by Dave Patten » 27 Sep 2018 11:44

I plumbed my 510 race car with cunifer tubing. This is a copper / nickel alloy that is designed for brake line use. Many European cars use it.

It is easy to form (up to 2x, explained below). It flares extremely well and will not rust.

When making bends, it bends easily the first time. If you need to adjust the bend it is stiffer to bend the second time. Once reshaped the second time, it is down right rigid and extremely hard to form any further by hand.

I purchased my line and fittings from http://www.fedhillusa.com/. I found their fitting quality to be decent.

As for a flaring tool, I bought a Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool (I believe Byron has the same unit). The price was BIG BUCKS and tough to justify. The ease of use and the quality flares it created made the price well worth it. I did the entire brake system without a bad flare or leak on the entire car.
Dave Patten
http://www.FutoFab.com
Dunbarton, NH

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zKars
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Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by zKars » 27 Sep 2018 13:14

I cannot comment on fuel line fittings on a KA fuel rail, or the car that it came from, but stock 510 fuel lines are not flared at all. Just a formed bead on the end of the lines to accept a pressed on rubber hose.

If you want to use AN fittings, these use a 37deg flare (single or double flare, double common). Brake flares from the above (wonderful by the way, I have gthe fed hill tool as well) are not compatible with the AN flares. You need a 37 degree flare tool to form those flares. Rigid makes a nice one.

I too love Cunifer tubing. The very best pricing on that stuff by a long shot (that I have found, including FedHill) is from thestopshop.com. Their fittings are top quality as well.

silva510
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Joined: 24 Sep 2018 19:51

Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by silva510 » 30 Sep 2018 12:41

I have 3/16 copper nickel brake line coming but I still need to order the fittings. I'm a little nervous about making my own lines.

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zKars
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Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by zKars » 01 Oct 2018 07:39

Once you get the hang of making them, you'll wonder what the big deal is.

These points are critical

1. Only use a proper tubing cutter, never a hacksaw. Squareness counts and cleaning up a rough cut manually is not easy.
2. Remove the inner folded over 'burr' with a countersink bit. Light pressure, just enough to remove the inner lip. Do not create any ripples. I use this http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.a ... 2240,42281
3. Lightly camfer the outer edge to 45. Since you are doing this with a file by hand, it's the part most likely to do inconsistently. I have to find an inverted 45deg cone like sander thingy to make this easy and consistent.
4. Blow out the tubing before you install it to remove debris with compressed air. Do no skip this step!
5. Inspect the completed double flare carefully to ensure flat, even appearance all around. Use a magnifier, no one else is looking...
6. When assembling the fittings the first time, be prepared to re-torque if you see leaks. The metal to metal seal takes a bit to be formed the first time.
7. Put the tubing nut on BEFORE you do the crimp. This is hardest part of all for me.....

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Edm620
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Re: Brake and fuel line flare type.

Post by Edm620 » 12 Dec 2018 07:11

I have used Byron's $$$ flaring tool and yup it works great - so much better than the cheapo type you'll find everywhere. When I do my 620 lines I just might have to see if I can borrow his... :D
We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.”
Albert Einstein

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