Brake upgrade questions

[mroverkill]

Hey guys,

As part of my f20c swap I have been looking into brake and suspension upgrades for my 510.

The fronts seem fairly straightforward with either a 280zx or S12 front strut swap and the associated brake upgrades, but I am still not certain of how to approach the rears.

I am hoping to swap to discs in the rear for the increased performance as well as to avoid needing to adjust the drums on a regular basis. I am also enamored with the idea of a 5 lug swap but I can't tell you why (other than better wheel selection). The car will be used for street use, road racing, and eventually the Pike's Peak hillclimb. I envision it sitting similarly to this car, but with wide rubber (I am hoping for 15x8 in the front and 15x9 or 15x10 in the rear under rolled or BRE flares fenders).

With those stipulations out of the way, what is the best way of swapping to discs in the rear? I understand that you really don't want a ton of brake in the rear, does this have to do with the way the 510 apportions brake pressure, the lightness of the car, or something else entirely?


Thanks in advance, guys.

[okayfine]

DQ Volume 2 Issue 4 - 280ZX brakes stop your 510 on a dime - So you've made your car fast, but can it stop? How does four-wheel disc brakes sound? We'll show you how to swap the brakes from a 280ZX into your 510.

Easiest, documented path to F/R discs. Dean/deano510 sells/sold brackets for the rear. Aaron Suchy also sells/sold brackets for the rear for a couple different calipers. Nissan rear calipers of the era are all relatively the same, but they all seem to have slightly different mounting offsets, so the bracket and caliper have to match.

[mroverkill]

Thanks for the advice, man. I went ahead and downloaded that edition and read the article, seems like what I needed.

Do I need to think about changing anything in the rear spindles or wheel bearings to cope with higher loads from more power and grip?

[Dave Patten]

FutoFab has rear brackets to bolt on 82-83 280ZX caliper & rotors to the 510.
$195/set. Includes mounting hardware (rotors, calipers and e-brake not included)

These are not currently available on-line. Email me at Dave@FutoFab.com if you are interested.

[510rob]

Dave, do you make brackets for wagon straight rear axles?

[RMS]

what about the E brake ? is it possible to run the stock e brake cable with that caliper @ 12:00?

[Dave Patten]

Yes and No. The e-brake set-up has always been kind of a "you build it" with caliper swaps.

The OE lever and forward cable could be retained. A popular option is to buy a Lokar universal e-brake cable kit P/N EC-80FU (black) or EC-80FHT (stainless braid) and adapt it to the car.

[okayfine]

Do I need to think about changing anything in the rear spindles or wheel bearings to cope with higher loads from more power and grip?

No, these parts were overbuilt.

[PoorMtnKid]

Just my opinion from tracking my car the last few years, get willwoods. I have the entire 280zx disc system and for a street car it is good, however on the track that is an area I feel could help bring my times down. Right now I'm not running any "race pads" which would make a big difference Im sure, but then again I think there is only the portified brand option for the 280 zx.

I have found that Ermish Racing has a willwood kit and also http://www.arizonazcar.com/510brakes.html.

Right now Im debating on spending the close to $200 for the race pads or just saving for one of the willwood kits mentioned.

[mroverkill]

Do I need to think about changing anything in the rear spindles or wheel bearings to cope with higher loads from more power and grip?

No, these parts were overbuilt.

Awesome, thanks for the info on where to find that stuff in the DQ archives. The technical drawings will save a ton of fab time.

I am currently planning 280zx front struts with S13 coilovers, 15 or 16x7 in the front and 15 or 16x8 in the rear. 280zx brakes on the rear, maybe coilovers down the line.

Poormtnkid, thanks for the advice. For now I'm not really worried about track performance, I just want to improve the terrible stock brakes for when I have the new motor. Down the line the car will get a full race prep treatment and at that point I'll probably go to Willwood or Brembo brakes.

[bertvorgon]

"I understand that you really don't want a ton of brake in the rear, does this have to do with the way the 510 apportions brake pressure, the lightness of the car, or something else entirely?"

Just a comment on that question. When you go to rear discs, you can get way more braking out of the car. It is not a case of a "ton" of rear braking, it is getting the rear to do as much as possible, without having rear lockup. This accomplishes two things..less weight transfer to the front, which then lets the rear tires do more work...and....as braking is all about heat management, helps lessen the thermal load on the front rotors.

Having a bias adjuster lets you then balance the brakes as needed. You must understand that as pads/rotors heat up, the grip does change, so say in the case of tracking the car, what might be good on the street will not be optimum for the track.

Yes, the rear of a 510 is light, relative to the front, but, with a full fuel load and depending how you set up the "attitude" of the car, it will amaze you as to how much work the rear can do.

I speak from total experience here, as even with my power, when I had my drums still on my car, I could not stay away from a GT4 full on tube frame race car. When I went to my rear discs, the change was dramatic to say the least.

[mroverkill]

Thanks for the input, Keith. I will definitely have an accessible bias adjuster in the car once it is finished. The car really needs wider wheels and better tires as well to make use of any brake upgrades so those will be happening as soon as possible.

[okayfine]

Swapped 510 weights I've had (KA and SR) have seen the F/R split at ~56/44. These have been full-interior cars with gas tanks in the stock locations. Both had relocated batteries, one in the trunk one in the rear passenger footwell. Neither had spare tires, but were otherwise full, complete cars. So there's plenty of weight for rear brakes to do something with.

[mroverkill]

Swapped 510 weights I've had (KA and SR) have seen the F/R split at ~56/44. These have been full-interior cars with gas tanks in the stock locations. Both had relocated batteries, one in the trunk one in the rear passenger footwell. Neither had spare tires, but were otherwise full, complete cars. So there's plenty of weight for rear brakes to do something with.

Good to know, I should be somewhere around there depending on precisely where I mount the engine. F22c+trans weighs about 460 wet.