My Coupe Project, back to the future.....

[James]

I agree with Byron about the trusses being in shear with your current lift method. A beam each side raised by a screw jack in each corner would be dealing with the load the way the trusses were designed to.

Also - since you are adding a cripple wall on top of the existing wall, what are you doing to eliminate the knee type joint you are creating at the new intermediate plate line?

Just food for thought. You always have such cool projects going on…….

[goichi1]

Yes, I have already looked at bracing the unsupported trusses and I think it will be fine to lift from the bottom pushing up. I added bracing from the bottom cord to the top cord and tie into the the middle angles on the trusses at the lifting point.

The new wall section will need to be strengthened at the new plate joint, I plan on cutting the sheathing back a few feet for overlap of the joint to the lower original wall, I may even add steel straps to the wall studs lapping the joint, this will require furring out the drywall possibly.

I have put a lot of thought into this and researched a good bit too, yes, there are a few ways this can be done, and yes, I probably need a structural engineer involved to make sure I don't destroy my small shop, but I can't afford that and if I could, I would just have it all torn down and a proper shop of the right size built instead of going through all this trouble making one space bigger. If I destroy it all, I'll rebuild it....only bigger and better than before, so I really don't have much to lose. We will see how it goes!!

This small shop is about the sloppiest built structure I have seen, I don't think they used a level or a tape measure when building it, I'm just trying to salvage what I can....

[tr6racer21]

Eh Rich,


From my understanding the top chord is designed for vertical compressive load in the downward direction, the bottom chord is engineered to be in tension to keep the top chord from flattening out – triangles are wonderful in this respect. I agree with the guys above that the bottom chord should not be loaded vertically – it just wasn’t designed to take the weight. Carrying this vertical load spread out across the top chord would keep the stress in the direction that the truss was designed to work. From each load point this would mean bracing each truss in a V shape upwards in a 30 to 45 degree included angle I would think.

Byron

Watching this with cautious optimism. I believe Byron's thoughts are spot on. Adding screw jacks to the outer truss's in addition to adding bracing to the outer most points on the currently supported truss's to concentrate the roof load on the lift pads would feel safer....and then go slow, slow, slow.

You could also design a guide system (fully braced) of sorts in the corners that would remain with the roof structure to help with shear as you raise.

[goichi1]

I definitely plan to use 2x4's or 4x4's as guides in each corner to keep the roof from twisting as it goes up, these will be attached to the roof and slide up as the roof raises. I appreciate everyone's concern, I don't want this to go wrong, but I think It will be ok. not sure I will get to it this weekend or not, got some family stuff planned so it might be next weekend....I just want to get it done before the weather gets cold and wet...

[Byron510]

...I just want to get it done before the weather gets cold and wet...

I'm with you there Rich on my garage project as well - but I have a whole lot further to go!

Good luck to us both

Byron

[tr6racer21]

Any Progress Rich?

[James]

Yeah - waiting with bated breath…..

[Cmac]

I am interested in seeing how this is going to work. If you are going to add onto the top of the existing walls you are going to create a hinge point in the wall. If you are going to cut out the existing truss webbing to create a vaulted ceiling maybe add a dormer front and rear to achieve your goal. I am sure you will do a great job no mater what you choose as always.

[goichi1]

I didn't have time to get back on this, maybe tomorrow I will work on it more. It's def going to be interesting for sure! I like excitement. More to come....

[goichi1]

Up it goes!! too windy to go any higher.......till tomorrow!

[tr6racer21]

allright...excellent Rich

[greenthumb]

looks level and true. Excellent! Does it seem like your lift is working hard? It'd be interesting to know how much weight there is there

[goichi1]

The lift seems to be fine, doesn't sound like it was straining or anything. no funny or loud noises. Appears to be lifting level too. I left it at about a foot for about 15 minutes, seemed fine. I gave the lifting frame a good shake or two and it don't want to move. I put some guide 2x4's on the inside to help keep the lid square with the walls, seems to be ok with just that. Once I get it up to 4 feet I'll screw them to the walls to kind of lock it at the height. That will also support some of the weight so the lift don't hold it all but I think it can hold it just fine.

I have all my new studs pre-cut and ready to go once I get it all the way up. hopefully tomorrow....if the weather is nice.

[greenthumb]

Awesome!

[Byron510]

There were some good gusts this afternoon up here in the metro Vancouver area. I can see why you stopped if you had the same wind. Kind of unusual for our area, I wish you a smooth day tomorrow Rich, I look forward to your update.

Take it easy and safe

Byron