L16 Valve questions

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Jimmer84
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L16 Valve questions

Post by Jimmer84 »

So the dowel pin that holds the cam gear managed to walk it's way out last night, with the result of bending a couple valves.
The only numbers on the head are 219. the exhaust valve measures 1.38" an the intake measures 1.73"
does anyone have any idea where we could get them or what they might be out of or any other info ?!?
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banzai510(hainz)
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by banzai510(hainz) »

Those are the 280z valves 1.73 intake ,I think the later L motor used 1.38 exhaust on most L motors also.
cross reff some numbers like from Rockauto.com and they should have the specs.

You could get some fancy ones also , Manley Brand stainless????????


Early L16 heads 210castings used 1.5 intake and 1.30 exhaust

They say on L16 if you have a huge cam to notch the block on the exhaust side. Sounds like your could be done already
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510-Trevor
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by 510-Trevor »

Isn't the #219 head a true SSS head,quite rare and came with .138 exhuast and .165 intake valves.
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James
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by James »

Do you have the fuel pump drive on the cam bolt - or are using a different pump? It covers that pin so it can't come out. If you don't have the pump drive you should get a washer big enough to hold that in place. (Unless of course the bolt came loose - then all bets are off.).
I believe the 219 head had the 1.65 intake valves, but have often been enlarged to accept the 1.73 Valve.
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Jimmer84
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by Jimmer84 »

Its really weird. The drive pin seems too short. the washer held in from coming out all the way, but by the time it got to the washer, there wasn't any pin sticking out the other side of the pully to drive the cam.

so those intake valves are 280z intake valves and the exhaust valves are normal 510 valves? does anybody know where to get them, it seems they are nla from nissan.

Thanks
Jim
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banzai510(hainz)
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by banzai510(hainz) »

http://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&q=L ... ssan+Parts

heres a photo of sprocket installed. So did the pin shear off?
Or you didnt use the fuel pump ecentric ?????

the valves should be avail but ill let you search this out
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510-Trevor
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by 510-Trevor »

I bought my last set of valves from Top End Performance http://www.racetep.com You can also try the Z store, ....
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Jimmer84
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by Jimmer84 »

No. I didn't use the fuel pump eccentric, but the washer that is on the bolt is big enough to cover the holes. the pin worked out of the camshaft. the pin is only as long as the gear is thick.so as soon as the pin worked out far enough to touch the washer, there was nothing sticking out the other side to drive the cam.weird. at least it didnt happen half way through our first stage.
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James
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by James »

Its been a while since I paid attention to that pin. Maybe it is only that long....or maybe yours is shorter. I have a spare head and I will check that length out tonight.
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datzenmike
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by datzenmike »

Surely the pin is only for allignment. Does not the cam sprocket retaining bolt not hold the cam and sprocket together??? It is called the retaining bolt and is torqued to what 70 ft lbs or more. If that bolt is torqued, no way the cam would turn, pin or not.
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banzai510(hainz)
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by banzai510(hainz) »

Datzenmike
I had one cam sprocket PIN where is was just under size where the sprocker moved side to side alittle bit.

I can assume the Cam bolt wasnt tight enough worked it way loose to maybe have the pin fall out,move out of cam or shear off.

I thing the Cam bolt is near 100ft pounds for torq.

I myself will always use the fuel pump ecentric as a spacer weither I run a manual pump or not just for the spaceing.
I now racers say it proveis better balance or weight saving bullshit but hell its a L motor!!!!!

Maybe the washer JIMMER installed wasnt thick enough, where it cause the cam bolt to BOTTOM OUT too soon thus later came loose?????????????????? Just a tought
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James
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by James »

I agree with both that the dowel is for alignment, but it also for shear, and the sprocket could spin under the bolt if the dowel worked loose. I believe the proper torque on that bolt is 100-108 ft./lbs. I think the Haynes shows it around 40 some odd ft/lbs (look out for this one - expensive mistake) Maybe it wasn't torqued properly?
Hainz is right if the washer was too thin - the bolt bottoms out and messes up your torque readings, bolt could stay in place but not enough pressure on the sprocket.....
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banzai510(hainz)
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by banzai510(hainz) »

around 40 some odd ft/lbs

James
thats for the head bolts on L16s, thus I always reuse headbolts on L16s myself.
turbo head bolts I think are about 58-60pounds
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James
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by James »

I am going from memory (which is definitely not what it used to be), but I thought I remembered some discrepancy with the cam bolt torque numbers in the haynes manual. Thanks for the clarification. Having lost a com bolt myself (which started me into first working on my 510), I hate to see it happen to others.
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Jimmer84
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Re: L16 Valve questions

Post by Jimmer84 »

The pin is for alignment and drives the cam. The washer is thick enough,the bolt was not bottomed out. It was properly torqued. The pin is too short. When the pin finally touched the washer, there wasn't enough lenght to drive the cam. And no one seems to have the 1.73 in 280z intake valves.
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