worth of my swapped dime that needs shortblock?

[Ahut2000]

I live in the SE USA in GA, where there are almost no 510s around at all so at least the market isn't flooded.


Saturday it cracked a piston (we think) we always have had problems with this bottom end with problems with the back cylinder firing from day 1. We got it working but I guess it was always bad (thanks Jhot imports!)


I don;t know that I have the time for at least 3 months to do any work on it. How much of a hit do you guys think i'm going to take on selling this. Any ideas of what a car like this would go for.

The motor turns over and runs, but needs a block.


All the electronics are good and the head is pretty new. Only thing is swapping out a new shortblock (found some local for 300)


1972 datsun 510 wagon with title
redtop SR
5spd tranny
new tranny mount and bushings
new stage 3 clutch
emance tuned ECU
megan exhaust manifold
FP 20g turbo with 8cm exhaust housing
braided oil feed line
3" downpipe
full 3" exhaust w new muffler and flex section
550cc injectors
MSD high flow fuel pump
blocks in back
280zx front struts
lowering springs
NOS koni adjustable inserts
slotted rotors
staggered flat black rota wheels 15x7/8 0 offset with pretty new 195 50 15 fuzion zri tires
black interior - Z car front seats, headliner intact.
battery relocation to back footwell.
evo8 FMIC
aluminum racing radiator
blitz SS blowoff valve
fuel pressure gauge
N62 maf with 6" filter K&N
external wastegate @1bar with dump tube
electric fan
oil filter relocation kit


any ideas from you guys that have sold cars with issues how much of a loss I would take over running condition? I'd be willing to sell it below cost of parts (and of course tons of little parts not listed lol)

[okayfine]

Pictures?

Saturday it cracked a piston (we think)

I don;t know that I have the time for at least 3 months to do any work on it. How much of a hit do you guys think i'm going to take on selling this. Any ideas of what a car like this would go for.

Provided all it is is something wrong with the short block, that's a long day's work. I know you've said you don't have the time to do it, but if you relate the time it will take compared to the expected change in selling price, you might find it worth your while to get it done.

Unfortunately what you have now is a project. You say you think you cracked a piston, but you don't know. Therefore the repairs are, at this time, unknown. Likely related only to the block, but again, without opening it up and looking around, you don't know what's wrong. And anyone buying it will have only your guess to go on. If you "cracked" a piston, maybe a chip flew out of the exhaust and chipped a compressor blade? Or nicked a valve?

any ideas from you guys that have sold cars with issues how much of a loss I would take over running condition? I'd be willing to sell it below cost of parts (and of course tons of little parts not listed lol)

Pictures would be helpful. We'd have to start with estimating the price your car would sell for without the engine issue, then go from there.

[Byron510]

A picture is worth a thousand words. To me, the condition of the body still is more valuable that the mechanical side of things. Is all the trim there, how is the interior - things like this affect the value of the car in a huge way.

It's a shame you can't hold on to the car and repair it at a later date. However if you know that you'll never get around to the repair, then it is a very wise choice to let the car go before it just sits and become worth even less (or just plain gets parted and scrapped in the end).

Post a pile of pics if you can, this will do the most for your case.

Byron

[Ahut2000]

I haven't had a camera in a while so i don have very current pics. The car has a little rust but not much... Could use patches or new floorboards welded in.

Frame rails, bay, trunk, fenders, all perfect.

[Ahut2000]

and it made 285whp 240tq with a bad exhaust leak and before i upgraded intercooler piping.

AFR's are good.. the block was just bad to start with

[okayfine]

If the car presents in the same condition as your older pictures, I'd estimate you're looking at a base price of ~$5000-6000 or so if the block wasn't an issue. Paint doesn't look great, possible right-front fender issues, your mention of rust, the general interior/exterior condition of the car (trim missing, worn interior), etc.

Bonus points for it being relatively free of rust on the east coast.

Minus points for it being a wagon (hey, even four-door sedans take a hit, so...).

Minus points for ghetto dyno shop

Yes, it has an SR, but prices are down across the board for 510s these days, and SR cars are common. Your power figures are nice, but if the rear diff hasn't been upgraded, it's only a matter of time before it grenades.

However, with the block problem, that estimated figure decreases, and probably by $1500 or more. Sure, it won't "cost" that much to get another SR short block (of unknown history), but there's a lot of labor involved in swapping it out. Crucially, there's the unknown factor in your engine blow. Is it just the short block? No other damage? If you could at least determine that, you could mitigate your losses due to it. But to determine it means you'd have to tear things apart, and if you've got it apart, you might as well fix it yourself, pimp the rest of your ride, and make a few more thousand on top for your efforts.

[Ahut2000]

If this hadn't happened, next on the list was basic rust repair, paint, and some really wide rims on the back haha.

I have almost all the trim not on the car, its just not on there right now.

R front fender is good, was just sanded down to metal and left in one spot.

But yeah guess it seems like I should just fix it :\ haha

If the car presents in the same condition as your older pictures, I'd estimate you're looking at a base price of ~$5000-6000 or so if the block wasn't an issue. Paint doesn't look great, possible right-front fender issues, your mention of rust, the general interior/exterior condition of the car (trim missing, worn interior), etc.

Bonus points for it being relatively free of rust on the east coast.

Minus points for it being a wagon (hey, even four-door sedans take a hit, so...).

Minus points for ghetto dyno shop

Yes, it has an SR, but prices are down across the board for 510s these days, and SR cars are common. Your power figures are nice, but if the rear diff hasn't been upgraded, it's only a matter of time before it grenades.

However, with the block problem, that estimated figure decreases, and probably by $1500 or more. Sure, it won't "cost" that much to get another SR short block (of unknown history), but there's a lot of labor involved in swapping it out. Crucially, there's the unknown factor in your engine blow. Is it just the short block? No other damage? If you could at least determine that, you could mitigate your losses due to it. But to determine it means you'd have to tear things apart, and if you've got it apart, you might as well fix it yourself, pimp the rest of your ride, and make a few more thousand on top for your efforts.