Page 1 of 1

L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 06:01
by obrut
I just picked this L18 up and I wanted to know if someone can tell me if the pistons are stock. It is a A87 open chamber head and has L18 on the block, timing chain looks like new compared to the rest of the engine.

I would eventually like to build up a L18 of L20B for a 510 so just need to know what I'm starting with.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 06:29
by datzenmike
Looks about right. L18s have dished pistons. Measure the bore... should be 85mm. Make sure you don't run a fram filter.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 07:10
by obrut
I measured the bore and it is 85mm, I took a few reading with a bore gauge and the the bores seem ok. Cylinder walls look like they could use a quick clean up.

I'm doing some searching but is there any way to get 9.5 or 10.1 compression with the open chamber head and different pistons? I would like to build a 510 similar to what would be built in the 70s. My goal would be a high revving street engine with side draft carbs, header and a cam.

I don't own a 510 yet, still looking for one but I started searching for the parts I think I would need to build one the way I would wont it. I have the how to modify datsun engine and chassis and how to hotrod and race datsun books and I've been reading the forums.

The fram filter came with the engine, I run WIX on just about everything I have.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 07:20
by Byron510
Wix is good....

The old hot rod trick for these engines was to use 240Z flat top pistons to bump up the compression ratio. The 240Z flat tops were available in various bore sizes, so you'd want to match what you have to what you need. generally most would do a re-bore when doing this and start with a new, clean and parallel cylinder bore. I am sure I have seen an engine cross reference chart over the years, let me search....

OK, I knew I'd seen this somewhere.
Check out the following link, lots of ides and information in this one page - worth your time to read through while planning;

http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGray.pl

Byron

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 10:04
by obrut
thanks for the link, I read that same info in a post on a forum somewhere, it must have been copied from that link. There is some great info out there I just need to keep reading it until it all makes sense.

The L18 was supposedly a running engine when it was pulled. When I get time I'll have to pull the short block apart and check the mains and rod bearings, so far it looks usable.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 13:49
by iceman510
Hi, to the original poster, if you are interested in an L20B, I would be interested in trading an L20B for the L18. I am in Michigan and pass through the area on occasion. Let me know.

Thanks.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 15:10
by obrut
iceman510 i sent you my number in the messaging but I'm not sure it went through, let me know if it didn't

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 10 Oct 2017 20:52
by okayfine
OP, get your hands on a copy of the How To Hotrod book. All the L16/L18 hot-rodding tips you could want. At least give you a good base. People like Rebello and Troy have taken the game on, but at a cost of cubic dollars.

Digital copy of HtH is up at The 510 Archives.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 11 Oct 2017 04:46
by Three B's Racing
Typical stock L18 pistons have a much smaller dish than the L16 & L20B and that dish looks much deeper to me. Pull the pan and have a look at the crank as some L18's came with counterweighed cranks like the L20B. Don't worry about running a Fram filter, I've been running them in my SR since day 1 and in my LZ22 and every other L series engines I've run since `76 with ZERO issues zero. Hell Dave Patten ran one on his GT3 tube framed 510 with no issues.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 12 Oct 2017 16:22
by obrut
I pulled a main and two rod bearing caps. Crank looks good, bearings look ok, thrust bearing looks good.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 12 Oct 2017 19:58
by RMS
all my dds get a 302ci type Baldwin b2 as the element in the ph8a is the same size as the recommended stock shorty ph43?? .... but any "premium" filter in the 302 range will work.... depending on your colour scheme.

the ph8a is probably the lightest filter. a used one with oil weighs the same as a new b2

me: can I get a fram ph8a
partsguy: whats the make and model ?
me: its for a datsun but I want a 302 type ph8a
partsguy : let me look that up
me: ......
me ...... look up a f250 from say 1984
partsguy: automatic or standard does it have AC ?
me: :|

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 12 Oct 2017 21:09
by datzenmike
I don't understand why anyone would go to the trouble to build an engine and then nickle and dime the oil filter. Fram are poor quality materials and construction. For the same price you can get better.

Re: L18 questions

Posted: 13 Oct 2017 04:50
by Three B's Racing
I've been running Fram filters forever on all my vehicles. Last truck before I sold it 165k miles, Jeep 230k miles, current '09 Subaru 138k miles and current truck 128k miles, 510 with NA SR20DE S14 7 year running motor has about 80k miles plus the LZ I was running, issues with any of these vehicles because of a fram filter "O". All oil filters filter, some better that others, just don't leave a cheaper filter in there for a zillion miles. I replace mine at 3500 miles when running Mobile 1 oil.