Thats what I did with BRAKEMAN....I actually phoned them and said: "Look, I have this quasi street/race car used for....what do you recommend for a pad that I need for cold grip..and I mean cold, with some good mid range stopping power?" Some times these guys in California, or, wherever, do not real...

That's funny...maybe I'm a wimp when it comes to braking.... i think you might need new rotors though.... I put that 2" extension on my brake pedal so the force required in my car is actually pretty low and I have GOOD brake bias to the rear also, which really helps and decreases the load on the fro...

You got me thinking about brakes.... With all the guys here, I cannot think of ANYONE ever saying they experienced brake fade on any of our drives or Solo. Road race sure, as Mission is a killer on brakes and you NEED brake cooling as a supplement. Have that lineal grip right off the bat gives MAJOR...

In all my years of trying a ZILLION different pads, other than my road racing....I finally just went with the softest pad I could put into my Brakeman calipers. best thing I ever did. You want a pad that has a huge coefficient of friction at the lowest temperature possible....IMHO. Thinking I had th...

Glad that worked. I remember when I installed mine I wondered...What the hell!

Here is a picture of my Momo hub...there is a gap...did you carefully bend the horn power metal strip down a tad to contact the ring?

Here is a picture of what I did; Fuel in on bottom of regulator.....then...OUT to my aluminum distribution block.. Straight out is feed to my carb.... the SMALL steel braided line goes to my fuel pressure gauge... the Other Aeroquip line out of the bottom of the distribution block is my return line ...

I would suggest that you would NOT have enough restriction with that return line by itself. .035 inch = .890mm. The return line NEEDS to have enough restriction to maintain a constant fuel pressure, otherwise the fuel will take path of least resistance. the return line itself is ok, just pop the res...

I would suggest to run a return line. That helps with any fuel percolation during heat soak, as there is always cooler fuel there. It helps with a more stable fuel pressure. You would put a .035-.040" restriction in the line, mine is very close to the fuel tank. Just make sure your FEED line is a ni...

For what it is worth...you are NOT alone. Hang in there!!! Time and setbacks are very common with our 510 projects. In my years of playing with a 510, I had some MAJOR setbacks. The worst was in 1978, after finally getting my 1972 510 running great and competitive, a young fellow ran me off one of o...

Looking very good. Just a comment...suggestion...while the engine bay is open with no motor, take a few minutes, with some CLEAR plastic line, and put some over the brake lines in that cluster at the firewall. They can be little short pieces, whatever, the idea is to stop and isolate any vibration/r...

Due to G-Forces, I have a NON vented one and then have a breather line...fuel tank to the EVAP tank, in the trunk, then, down through the floor to under the car, by my battery well in the trunk. That way...if you ever have the unfortunate luck of putting your 510 on it's roof, fuel will not leak out.

You NEED to pick up the pace on getting this car ready!

When I come to visit, I expect to be able to TD this thing down Hwy.97..... before the cold beer and lawn chair time!

I'll take you for a buzz in mine.

Your on my list for first drive up the Hope Princeton.

You do know I meant a block of STEEL went into the rear passenger seat well.

Is it the LOCK that does not work or the mechanism? If there is a lot of wear in the little lever off the back of the lock,which has a plastic sleeve, there may not be quite enough travel...or lift if you will, to pull the door mechanism to open the door. Best advice would be, if it is on there, the...