The 510 Realm

Thanks. I should have clarified at the start. An L18 block is acceptable without engineering certification, so that is my preference to use that block. That combination sounds good, as you say, close to that ideal rod/stroke value that you mentioned.. I presume a 2 mm oversize bore on the L18 block ...

Thanks Mike. So am I waisting a lot of effort for not much gain to do any of this? Would it more beneficial to make gains in the head, Cam, Induction and exhaust side of things and leave the L18 bottom end alone, apart from say new rings and a balance.?? Interesting that you say about L18 internals ...

I know there’s heaps of info on engine builds, etc, but can’t find much on L18’s performance wise. I’ve got L16.18 and 20 engines and parts, but ideally want to build an 18 so that I don’t need to get engineers certification etc here in Aus. My question is this. For a fun street car build, what woul...

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I did get there kit, it’s now installed, but haven’t driven on it yet..

And one more of the rear of caliper..

The only stamping at the moment that I can find is 8X28. Fairly large stamps used. Nothing identifying the brake pad. The rotor measures 24 mm across. Dr Google was no help to me..

Hi all. Would any be able to help me identify these struts/ brakes. Thought they may be 280 ZX but calliper looks different to my other set..

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Mate please keep the updates coming. Seeing yours coming along gives me motivation to get mine done..

A bit more done. Frame rail re fitted, rust repair panel around rail done. Guards and bonnet loosely fitted up to check alignment. Was a lot of mucking around to make sure all fitted up well, but really happy with the result. You can’t tell now that the rail and rad support has been out. Waiting now...

A bit more. Before, during and after. Left the welds there as will be covered by rocker.

Lots more been done. Frame rail and rad support out. Pax side Frame rail repair done.

New tail panel only fits standard lights, so lots of cutting and Hammer/ Dolly work in this..